Author Topic: overheating issues. (Read 9293 times)

rathies · « **on:** Dec 9, 2005, 05:00PM »

over the last few months I've had overheating issues with my trx. I was using a tectaloy pre-mixed coolant at first, that meant no rust and over heating. Second time round i used water and redline water wetter. that made the engine slightly cooler (still above the 2 normal dots) but with alot of radiator rust. Last week I put some radiator flush stuff through the system then replaced it with distilled water and a bottle of corrosion inhibitor. it went good for a few days then today when i stopped moving the needle alomost hit the white line below the H.
I have a sneaking suspicion that its to do with the water temp sensor. Can someone please tell me where to find it, how to get the bastard out and wether or not carby cleaner is the right stuff to clean it with. Cheers.

Chadza · « **Reply #1 on:** Dec 9, 2005, 07:17PM »

I'm the person when it comes to temp issues! I had pretty much the same problem as to what you seem to have now. You seem to be on the right track with the coolant temp sensor. Beware that you may not be able to clean it as the probe that goes into the coolant may be very corroded or the electricals in the sensor may be f*cked. I just bought a new one from Nissan this week and it was $92.

Before you go splurging on a new sensor can you tell me if your fans are switching on at all? Switch on your air-con and if your fans turn on straight away then its pretty much garunteed to be your temp sensor.

Do that and get back to us.

btw, NEVER just fill your radiator with water, always have coolant in it as if its overheating then there is a fair chance you are getting close to boiling the water.

rathies · « **Reply #2 on:** Dec 10, 2005, 12:03AM »

I had my air-con regassed last thursday. the gas had all leaked out by sunday, It shall be fixed next week due to special dye that shows the leaks. The fans were coming on with the air con, infact the engine was running cooler due to the fans being on more. Now that the gas is gone they won't come on with the air-con button. It was like that before i got it regassed. No gas = no fans.
FYI I haven't had a thermostat for a few months because the one i bought got stuck and made the needle go throught he roof. I figured it can't stuff up if theres no thermostat. I'll worry about getting on in winter.
Chazda, can you tell me the whereabouts of the water-temp sensor? its probably due for replacing anyway, I got 50k's out the last 1/4 tank, meaning its probably forked.
I'll explain what happened today a bit better. driving, temp good, a bit above the gray dots. I stopped in my mates street and it shot up like hell. Had a look in the filler and the water had come out through the tube thingy and nearly made the tank over-flow. I drove it home slowly and about half an hour later the radiator sucked almost all the water back in from the filler. So I guess the water did boil, and at an extremely dangerous pressure. I think i might buy some coolant tomorrow and give that another shot. I would never put just water in there without some sort of additive.

rathies · « **Reply #3 on:** Dec 10, 2005, 12:05AM »

Adding to the last long post. whenever my car stops moving the needle shoots up by a fair bit. To solve this I installed an engine timer today. Just gotta estimate how many seconds/minutes to set it for.

btw I just found out where the temp sender is. All good, Will have a look at it tomorrow.
http://www.antrx.com/smf/index.php?topic=8343.0

Chadza · « **Reply #4 on:** Dec 10, 2005, 11:33AM »

Yep, its on the top of the manifold where the top radiator hose goes into the head. The ECU temp sensor is the bigger one, and the Gauge temp sensor is the little one. Another thing that I had when mine was frigged was A LOT of black soot on the rear bumper, ie the ECU was sensing the engine was at a different temp to what it really was and the mixtures were all wrong, usually it was overcompensating with fuel and when it got really bad my car wouldn't actually start.

I'm not sure what you mean by an engine timer, but if your fans aren't working and its overheating then just leaving your car to idle is the worst thing you can do. The gnien will just get heat soaked then.

Chad

rathies · « **Reply #5 on:** Dec 10, 2005, 04:29PM »

engine timer = same as a turbo timer. but applied to NA. just sounds cooler than saying i put a turbo timer on my car without a turbo.

Chadza · « **Reply #6 on:** Dec 10, 2005, 07:34PM »

Not having a go here but:

Like I said above, that'll only work if your fans are coming on at the right time which I don't think they are. A turbo-timer works by basically keeping the engine and hence oil pump going so that the oil in the turbine housing doesn't burn and cause damage. You can do the same on an NA car after a hard fang by just letting your car idle but the principle here is that the fans will come on and keep your coolant at an acceptable temperature. If your fans do not come on then your engine is just heating up the coolant and hence getting hotter, defeating the purpose really.

Anyway, I'd advise you to just replace that sensor. Take the clip off and then remove the electrical connector. Get a 19mm spanner and undo the probe bit. Make sure the rest of your cooling system is shut otherwise you'll get coolant pouring out of the hole. (I found out the hard way when I left my radiator cap off while doing this! hehe whoops)

Hopefully it'll solve your problems.

rathies · « **Reply #7 on:** Dec 10, 2005, 07:53PM »

I had to get myself a 19mm long socket because i didn't have a spanner that fitted. all sorted today, the sensor was black, so i attacked it with sandpaper until it was copper coloured. The car takes a long time to get to normal operating temp, maybe because i dont have a thermostat. But I've already noticed that it doesn't go past the second grey dot. meaning there was probably no need for the engine timer after all. I just got worried about the temperature shooting up whenever the car stopped moving.

Chadza · « **Reply #8 on:** Dec 10, 2005, 07:57PM »

good to hear its all fixed!!

Yeah, mine was really black too, Makes you think what the water galleries look like in the head if its corroded the probe that much! My connector looked pretty dirty and yuck too so I just bought a new sensor. Not a cheap exercise unfortunately.

Might be an idea to get the thermostat in soon too!

rathies · « **Reply #9 on:** Dec 10, 2005, 08:02PM »

I think a thermostat would definately help the engine warm up quicker, and save me some fuel. There are two types available, the standard and the hi-flow. I bought the hi-flow last time because it was the same size as the stock one (which was still in there after 15 years). the high flow got stuck closed so i took it back.
The difference in price was a killer, I'm not sure if its important to get a hi-flow or not. The standard i could've picked up for $10 or $15. The only hi-flow i could find cost me $60
Would there be much difference in whichever thermostat I use?

Jono · « **Reply #10 on:** Dec 11, 2005, 10:22PM »

I reckon they'd work fine if they're marketed as a spare part for your car.

bigpud2012 · « **Reply #11 on:** Jan 7, 2006, 09:56PM »

ok tonight i was on my way back from meeting up with chadza and povr31 and heading towards my best mates 21st party, when comming through the city my temp guage kept on rising and rising.

now heres the deal, my air con isnt working and have tested to see if the fans come on when i switch the AC button on. However, they dont come on. To be honest havent noticed them comming on at all latley.

On testing this i noticed that my radiator overflow tank was becoming heaps full with coolant, way over the max level. Also it appeared that the coolant was boiling in the radiator hoses, i could hear it bubling. It was also clear that steam was comming out of the radiator cap, thus the coolant must have been boiling.

I replaced the coolant with a Castrol PreMix (anti boil / freeze) only a few days ago so all should be ok on that front, but now with the fans not apparantly working at all is this causing the Coolant to just be heated up to the max?

I have been reading the Gregories manual and have come to the conclusion that it may have something to do with my air con not working (ie no gas) to make fans work. Also in reagards to thermostat and air con, mmm getting confused now! $:-\$

any help would be appreciated.

sound similar to rathies problem, but the frikn coolant was boiling

is it the engine temp sensors by any chance that would be the possible cause?

bungs · « **Reply #12 on:** Jan 7, 2006, 10:28PM »

Quote from: bigpud2012 on Jan 7, 2006, 09:56PM

is it the engine temp sensors by any chance that would be the possible cause?

Yes.

Try unscrewing the 2 temp sensors (you'll find where they are in the manual) and giving them a clean.

bigpud2012 · « **Reply #13 on:** Jan 7, 2006, 10:37PM »

yeah thanks Bungs, i appreciate all this help.

ive been reading the manual heaps so now it more of a matter of confirming these ideas.

so once again thanks CHRIS

but honestly, the coolant boiling???

rathies · « **Reply #14 on:** Jan 8, 2006, 02:26PM »

would have to be failing temp sensors mate. if you ever get into trouble (i.e. far from home) just pull the red plug off your temp sensor and keep driving. it will make the fans come on real high, thats what i've had to do in the 37 degree heat the last couple of days. i'll be sorry when it gets hotter. I've also had problems with coolant boiling, despite the fans coming on, and no thermostat the temperature still shot up when cruising at about 1800 revs.
I also changed my coolant to one that you mix yourself. seems to have been alright for the last couple of weeks.

bigpud2012 · « **Reply #15 on:** Jan 8, 2006, 05:32PM »

yeah, just got my entire socket set out and realised that out of 50 or so bloody socket pieces the only one im missing is the 13mm long barrell one that i can get over one of the engine temp senders. Be stuffed if i have a 19mm one as well.

Geez have to go and buy a couple now along with a new temp sender.

dont want to go and buy one and find out its not the prob $:-\$

ohwell ill keep reading my Gregories manual (chadza

) and see what i can come up with

so change thermostat and it should be aok? hope so.

EDIT: talkign somewhere else - they reckon i may have blown a gasket if its not the thermo stat? But first to get this baby out and put her in some hot water to check.

Also guys i have noticed that the bottom radiator hose is cold even after warming the engine up while the top hose is warm only after letting it idol after a 3 - 5 minutes. Is this a sign that the thermostat is closed / faulty?

bigpud2012 · « **Reply #16 on:** Jan 8, 2006, 10:53PM »

ok guys i have been reading my manual and i dont know if im blind or if its the time of day but i cant seem to find where the thermostat is located?

could someone please jus tquickly tell me, have tried searching bu ti seem useless at that...

sorry for the stupid question guys, but i cant find it in this manual. I see other info i need to know but where is the bastard?

JIMB0 · « **Reply #17 on:** Jan 8, 2006, 11:23PM »

Quote from: bigpud2012 on Jan 8, 2006, 05:32PM

Also guys i have noticed that the bottom radiator hose is cold even after warming the engine up while the top hose is warm only after letting it idol after a 3 - 5 minutes. Is this a sign that the thermostat is closed / faulty?

Could be a blocked radiator. You can check the tubes in the core by putting a dip stick down them to see if they are blocked. You will need to find a flat dip stick or something similar that will fit down the tubes.

wombat · « **Reply #18 on:** Jan 8, 2006, 11:28PM »

Quote from: bigpud2012 on Jan 8, 2006, 10:53PM

ok guys i have been reading my manual and i dont know if im blind or if its the time of day but i cant seem to find where the thermostat is located?

could someone please jus tquickly tell me, have tried searching bu ti seem useless at that...

sorry for the stupid question guys, but i cant find it in this manual. I see other info i need to know but where is the bastard?

the thermostat should be inside the top radiator hose, at the block end of it, not the radiator end.

At least, that's where mine is (R31 CA20E might be different to U12 KA24E but I doubt it)

bungs · « **Reply #19 on:** Jan 8, 2006, 11:46PM »

The thermostat is directly under the alternator in the u12's.

bigpud2012 · « **Reply #20 on:** Jan 9, 2006, 07:35PM »

ran it for 10 mins on idle today and fukn started steaming again WTF!!!!!

@#$*(&@Q$*(&

mechanic tomorrow, need this fixed asap!

redrocket · « **Reply #21 on:** Jan 11, 2006, 06:47AM »

yeah i think my car has a prob like this.. the car is fine until i stop at lights, the neddle goes up past the dots and the fans dont come on, with or without air con on, when i pull the plug of for the ecu temp sensor, the fans come on constant...

? no idea wats happening

pedro666 · « **Reply #22 on:** Jan 23, 2006, 01:51AM »

try spraying contact cleaner on the conections. i had this problem also ,after a few sprays it should clean up. otherwise you might need new conections.

emuisme · « **Reply #23 on:** Feb 23, 2006, 04:47PM »

Just a little thing that helped when I had cooling problems (and it doesn't seem to be mentioned, I may have missed it) in order to get home when your car is overheating you can turn your heaters on flat out (don't forget to wind the windows down

) and it'll help cool it down.

Edit: p.s. sorry didn't realise how old this post was.

nasa · « **Reply #24 on:** Feb 26, 2006, 02:38AM »

Hi guys (sorry for my bad English)
i m new to u12 with ke24 infact thats my first Nissan

. reading the overheating issue. i have some problem but little bit diff.I have flushed the radiator by radiator ppol 4 months ago. car was going fine. but for last week its heaps overheating.
the things i have done after chking forum
changed the thermostat. a real pain in asdfasfdsdsaf... i put whole procedure on forum soon
ecu temp sensor changed
temp but the tridon didn't work.so clean the old working fine as fans coming on when it goes up 2nd dot.

work fine for 1 hr. after took for drive and again same problem.
fans are working fine at 2nd dot but car didn't stop overheating. bottle become full with boiling coolent. some time it suck back. so today after lot of trouble i have found out if drive less then 2k rmp all good. stop or more then 2k needle goes up. even fan working noway coming down.

i have checked with the guys who did the flush. they told bcuz engine sittin higher then radiator might b it got some air in system

. he bleeds the system but no use.
NOTE to bleed the air there 2 bolts on throttle body which hold the acclator cable fitting. the upper one is bleeder.
Any body have idea what going wrong

. even on freeway that thing dint cooled down.
one more thing if i start from cool like in morning it heats fans comes on then cool all normal. but as soon as hit the drive ther she gone red hot. $:-\$

bigpud2012 · « **Reply #25 on:** Feb 26, 2006, 10:58AM »

ummm, yeah.

this sound sverry similar to mine.

they replaced the injector seals on min and refaced and straightened the gasket!

alos i noticed a hose wasnt 100% fully on, weel chadza did --> thanks mate

, the coolant doesnt boil anymore.

but yeah.

check all hoses if not get a mechani to look at it

nasa · « **Reply #26 on:** Feb 27, 2006, 12:28AM »

Quote from: bigpud2012 on Feb 26, 2006, 10:58AM

ummm, yeah.

this sound sverry similar to mine.

they replaced the injector seals on min and refaced and straightened the gasket!

alos i noticed a hose wasnt 100% fully on, weel chadza did --> thanks mate , the coolant doesnt boil anymore.

but yeah.

check all hoses if not get a mechani to look at it

thanks for your reply. i looks like gasket problem. how much it cost you to do gasket stuff....i will go to mechnic today and ask him to look on it.
other thing i have check the enging oil cap and gone grayish from inside....which is sign of demege gasket anyway.

ca20e · « **Reply #27 on:** Mar 7, 2006, 07:25PM »

Quote from: bigpud2012 on Jan 7, 2006, 09:56PM

On testing this i noticed that my radiator overflow tank was becoming heaps full with coolant, way over the max level. Also it appeared that the coolant was boiling in the radiator hoses, i could hear it bubling. It was also clear that steam was comming out of the radiator cap, thus the coolant must have been boiling.

I replaced the coolant with a Castrol PreMix (anti boil / freeze) only a few days ago so all should be ok on that front, but now with the fans not apparantly working at all is this causing the Coolant to just be heated up to the max?

Yep been there done all that, does your coolant flow back into the rad after you stop?? when you take the top of the rad does air build up come out even when cold??? Is your car hard to start first of for the day?

I had these problems and after you have been for a spin you stop and you can hear the rad overflow tank bubbling away....

This is because you have a blown head gasket (go get the rad pressure tested) its the cylinder pressure forcing the air into your system, it will go on for a while like this, but if you do big trips the expanding and shrinking of the head will make it much worse to the point where it will just stop running...

I was quoted $800 to replace the gasket, i did it myself in 5 days (first timer) and it goes like a rocket now...have photos if you want to see just contact me, also check your spark plugs on the exhaust side, take note of the condition, i bet its the number one cylinder that is the different colour to the rest....

nasa · « **Reply #28 on:** Mar 14, 2006, 12:16AM »

Quote from: ca20e on Mar 7, 2006, 07:25PM

Yep been there done all that, does your coolant flow back into the rad after you stop?? when you take the top of the rad does air build up come out even when cold??? Is your car hard to start first of for the day?

I had these problems and after you have been for a spin you stop and you can hear the rad overflow tank bubbling away....

This is because you have a blown head gasket (go get the rad pressure tested) its the cylinder pressure forcing the air into your system, it will go on for a while like this, but if you do big trips the expanding and shrinking of the head will make it much worse to the point where it will just stop running...

I was quoted $800 to replace the gasket, i did it myself in 5 days (first timer) and it goes like a rocket now...have photos if you want to see just contact me, also check your spark plugs on the exhaust side, take note of the condition, i bet its the number one cylinder that is the different colour to the rest....

things you metion happening to my car. can you send me picture how to do headgasket. one more thing have you done that on k 24 enging? becuse i have pintara ti with 2.4. send me link or i will u my email to send picture.
only one thing my take a lil bit long self to start. other than that is working fine. no oil leakage in oil or anything. run fine too. but only problem is bubles in rediator water n where they coming from i have no idea.
i have already fulshed the system but evey 4 5 days my rad bottle is full of rust again? any ideassss?

Gangstanza · « **Reply #29 on:** Mar 14, 2006, 12:50AM »

Rust? Are you adding tap water to your coolant? DONT. Because that's what makes everything rust. You need the proper kind of water OR better yet get coolant that is premixed. Also you may want to check hoses, maybe a leak somewhere?