Author Topic: check your engine mounts people  (Read 11335 times)

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Offline Kranzy

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Re: check your engine mounts people
« Reply #30 on: Jan 5, 2007, 05:10PM »
Ok are we talking about using just sikaflex for the mount or filling the gaps of the standard mount with stock rubber still in tact?

Personally i would not use sikaflex to completly fill a mount from scratch. However i have used a polyurethane to fill the gaps in my engine mount to give it that little bit more strength until i get proper solid mounts made up.
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Offline omad

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Re: check your engine mounts people
« Reply #31 on: Jan 6, 2007, 10:06AM »
I filled the stock mounts, but they were severely cracked or the centre wasn't connected to the rest of the mount anymore :S

A couple of happy snaps just so you can see what I'm taking about....

The broken urethane mount


The sika-filled auto gearbox mount
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Offline KNG P1N

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Re: check your engine mounts people
« Reply #32 on: Jan 11, 2007, 07:26PM »
email from the qld manager of sikaflex....if this isnt enough..then more farking fool you.  contact him if you want, he'll only reinterate your stupidity

Matt,

In reference to our telephone conversation earlier today regarding whether
it was suitable to use a Sikaflex product to repair or replace the rubber
section of engine mounts in vehicles, below are some comments and points
to consider.

Vehicle manufacturers and vehicle component manufacturers do significant
research and development to come up with components that meet or exceed
the requirements of a particular application and in the case of an engine
mount which is a significant component designed to hold the motor in place
whilst still allowing for torsional and other stresses as well as
dampening vibrations etc To replace the existing rubber substance with a
Sikaflex product would not be recommended as these types of flexible
adhesives are designed to function between 1mm and 5 or 6mm thicknesses
and generally have Shore A hardness values no greater than 55.
Polyurethane adhesives also do not adhere well to vulcanised rubber and
other forms of rubber based compounds used in engine mount manufacturing
hence they are not recommended for repairing splits etc either.

My recommendation would be to always replace broken or split engine mounts
with new ones purchased through the vehicle manufacturer or a reputable
after market supplier and not to try to repair or re engineer the
component using products not specifically designed for the application.

I hope this explanation is of some assistance to you.


Regards,
Sika Australia Pty Limited


Denis Gray
State Manager Queensland
Office: 07 36339222
Fax: 07 36339200
Mobile: 0407 741566
E-Mail: [email protected]
Website: www.sika.com.au
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Offline omad

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Re: check your engine mounts people
« Reply #33 on: Jan 11, 2007, 10:18PM »
Oh, for goodnes sake. Get your head out of your ass!

All he's saying is it's "Not Recommended" and "Not Designed for that use". Basically, he's covering his ass.. don't you GET that?

And for crying in a bucket... we're bloody car modification junkies. We barely give a rats ass as to how the manufacturer inteded the car to be. Mainly because, especially here in OZ with all the emission laws etc etc and crap fuel, it sucks! There's much more gains to be had, power to be made and also harnessed. MOST people that modify their cars will put up with a bit of discomfort for some more performance etc. Ie: harsher ride with stiffer suspension, incresed engine vibrations with stiffer mounts...

You could basically say the same thing about after-market inserts as what he said. "That's not how the manufacturer made it after their $9XXXX of R&D, so it's definitely not recommended".

Bah. Beurocratic Bullsh*t.
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Offline MAG86

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Re: check your engine mounts people
« Reply #34 on: Apr 20, 2007, 08:55AM »
so can it be used??

will it go crappy and fall out?

im i going to die?
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Offline chr1S

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Re: check your engine mounts people
« Reply #35 on: Apr 20, 2007, 11:01AM »
I sell solid engine mounts in the antrx shop,

they will last longer than anything i've seen in this thread (sikaflex shit)
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Offline grove

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Re: check your engine mounts people
« Reply #36 on: Apr 21, 2007, 01:54AM »
My car went through a stage where it only shook going down the gears (manual) and the entire chassis, and i thought i was quite violent (when i first purchased the car). Within days the shaking stopped and the car seemed fine, i thought it may just have been the brakes had gathered some dirt, as the car hadn't been used for a long time.

But now that i no about enginemount problems, is there a thread on how to check them anywhere? and is it easy to replace them if need be? for a complete car novice!
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Offline chr1S

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Re: check your engine mounts people
« Reply #37 on: Apr 21, 2007, 09:49AM »
it's very easy, just gets abit annoying lining it up, but second time round i didn't have much trouble..

undo the front and back engine mount bolts (hold the engine in place with a jack)
undo the two bolts for the crossmember
drop this
two mounts will be sitting on the c/m waiting to be pulled off and replaced :).

that was if you wanted to replace the back and front, to do the sides u just need to jack the engine in it's normal position and go for it.
Don't let the opinions of the average man sway you. Dream, and he thinks you're crazy. Succeed, and he thinks you're lucky. Acquire wealth, and he thinks you're greedy. Pay no attention. He simply doesn't understand.

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Offline rathies

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Re: check your engine mounts people
« Reply #38 on: Apr 21, 2007, 11:43AM »
if your car is auto you can check the mounts by lifting up the bonnet, putting your foot on the brake and moving it through the gears reverse, neutral and drive.
if you peer through the little gap betweent the base of the windscreen and the bonnet you can see the motor moving, it shouldn't move too much, if so then one or all of them are broken. if the motor hops when you take off its the rear mount, if the car vibrates off the road in revese its the right hand mount, if it just vibrates heaps at cruise its the left hand. Well thats what i experienced with mine anyway.

I'll put my money on the rear mount because its designed like shit, just collapses and the motor rests on the crossmember.
« Last Edit: Apr 21, 2007, 11:45AM by rathies »
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