Author Topic: CA20E swap to a CA18DET (Read 35207 times)

pintara det · « **Reply #30 on:** Jul 26, 2004, 11:17PM »

My mate and i fitted a ca18det to his n13,im pretty sure it was lsd,had to use a exa flywheel.With 120kw@the wheels, the only problem he had was the clutch.

Pringles · « **Reply #31 on:** Jul 26, 2004, 11:26PM »

lol clutchs really dont like us do they

Xedus101 · « **Reply #32 on:** Aug 4, 2004, 03:19PM »

I'm looking at doing this conversion aswell and i've just been down to vicroads to get some info.
First to do this modification we'll need an Approval Certificate. To get this alot of things will need to be upgraded. Because this engine was not offered as an option for this vehicle we have to upgrade things like brakes, not sure on chasis. But anything that affects the safety of the passengers of the vehicle.

Engineers Certificates are needed as we would be going over 10% of the current power figure. All other related components such as structure, suspension, brakes etc need to be the equivalent of those fitted to the same model as the engine came from. They also advice that we see one of the VASS signatory before commencing this modification. So it's starting to look a lot more expensive. i'll see if i can get an engineer to take a look at what we want to do so we can see exactly what will need to be upgraded.

Hope this helps some of you out.

noss · « **Reply #33 on:** Aug 4, 2004, 03:54PM »

the u12 import brakes are exactly the same as the local u12 brakes so you dont have to worry there. the approval/engineering side of things is much simpler than you might be led to believe.

tomo · « **Reply #34 on:** Aug 4, 2004, 06:50PM »

i have rang around the rta (act gov bull shit) and no alerations need to be done to the car if you put a stock ca18det in to a stock corsair.

Budgie · « **Reply #35 on:** Aug 4, 2004, 08:14PM »

Hey tomo, I got this from an EXA driver who just registered here- MY question was, did you try to mate the KA24E LSD to the CA18DET box.

Yeah, I did have thoughts of doing that, the box and motor DO NOT join up though, the bolt pattern is completely different. I then had thoughts of using the bell-housing from an Exa box on the Pintara box, but the diff was too big and the bell housing would not mate up with the rest of the box properly, even though the bolt holes all matched up, I then had plans of machining out the Exa bell-housing a bit so it would fit the diff inside it, but that never happened.

Do you have any news on the gearbox front tomo?

tomo · « **Reply #36 on:** Aug 5, 2004, 09:59AM »

i was goin to go and pick one up this weekend but now i am thinkin maybe not. i might have to wait till i pull my engine out and take the ca20 bell housing with me and see if it will fit? in theory it does... dosent it? i am kinda thinkin the whole thing through after this morning. ( read my post in general discusion)

tomo · « **Reply #37 on:** Aug 5, 2004, 10:00AM »

what gear box did he use?

Budgie · « **Reply #38 on:** Aug 5, 2004, 03:04PM »

I'll ask him mate.

vector · « **Reply #39 on:** Aug 11, 2004, 04:32PM »

so you guys are looking for a lsd fwd g/b for a ca18? im told the n13 boxes bolt onto the ca18

tomo · « **Reply #40 on:** Aug 11, 2004, 08:43PM »

not all the n13 boxs are lsd and there very hard to find... but a valid point

budgie i brought another car... suzuki gti 94' and after driving it a bit i like it
the corsair is still in the shed in bits :-( after the stupid kangaroo but i have a ca18det (bored to 1.9l with 550cc injectors, forgies etc (got it out of a smashed pulsar), t28bb, r32 intercooler.... a whole lot for shit brought most of it from a dude i work with now. but i have another job now and work six days a week so i dunno how project detsair is goin to happen ( very very slowly)
peace out muther fukkers

vector · « **Reply #41 on:** Aug 11, 2004, 09:05PM »

theres a guy selling a import box on the pulsar forums 350 bucks he reckons hes aproaching the limits with it he wants 350
"KEN13 import gear box 4.471:1 final ratio - $350"
"KEN13 import gear box in bits, heavy damage, suit parts - $10"
also a whole bunch of random ca18 stuff gearbox is open centre not sure what that means sorry...lol

Budgie · « **Reply #42 on:** Aug 11, 2004, 09:50PM »

Sell all the parts to me Tomo

... lol

Nah good work mate. I'm still researching CA20E auto ideas, strengthening and modifiying. I'll let you know as soon as I have some solid information.

fraz · « **Reply #43 on:** Aug 11, 2004, 10:03PM »

Quote from: tomo on Aug 5, 2004, 09:59AM

i was goin to go and pick one up this weekend but now i am thinkin maybe not. i might have to wait till i pull my engine out and take the ca20 bell housing with me and see if it will fit? in theory it does... dosent it? i am kinda thinkin the whole thing through after this morning. ( read my post in general discusion)

Its a bolt on.

Budgie · « **Reply #44 on:** Aug 11, 2004, 11:23PM »

I'm thinking the CA20E's bellhousing it big enough Fraz, but the housing of whatever box this exa driver used was not? (to fit the KA24E LSD)... Maybe a CA18DE housing?

noss · « **Reply #45 on:** Aug 12, 2004, 12:29PM »

why are you wasting so much time trying to figure out how to hook up an lsd to a ca20e box? the majority of pulsar drivers who are running the sr20det dont have lsd and they have no problems with traction.. i think the lsd is the least of your problems and its making these projects stagnate.

Budgie · « **Reply #46 on:** Aug 12, 2004, 12:56PM »

Oh don't worry noss, as soon as urq and I sell the pintara Ti i'm gonna search for and buy a CA18DET front cut. Hopefully no more than a month until we get rid of the Ti. I'll have $3000 then, hopefully i'll pickup a CA18DET front cut for no more than $2k. As I said, keep a look out for me and once I have the cash in my bank account i'll start calling around.

tomo · « **Reply #47 on:** Aug 15, 2004, 02:02PM »

budgie did you ever consider if you get a front cut thats auto getting the tail shaft hole plated up and just using that box? on the gti web site some people are useing suzuki cultus gear box (which is a suzuki gti which is awd and turbo) just getting them plated up and away they go! the box maybe a bit heavier but they gotta be the strongest solution to your problem

Budgie · « **Reply #48 on:** Aug 16, 2004, 02:53PM »

No haven't considered that. Is that possible in your opinions Fraz/Adam/Noss?

noss · « **Reply #49 on:** Aug 16, 2004, 02:56PM »

i've always suggested it. i dont see why it wouldnt work.

SSS · « **Reply #50 on:** Aug 16, 2004, 03:38PM »

If you can beef up the auto and manualize it (like i'm trying to get evenflow to do), you may as well.

iren · « **Reply #51 on:** Aug 16, 2004, 08:25PM »

question: how would a manualized auto tranny perform? So far (that is after driving the newer shift-matic cars), I felt they're lacking the reaction time..

plugging up the AWD box is a fine idea, and may I suggest you plug up the front outdrives and send the power to the rear instead? LSD unit for the U12 rear diff is everywhere.

Budgie · « **Reply #52 on:** Aug 16, 2004, 09:15PM »

I'm not spending 20k on this swap iren. RWD/AWD conversions are out and we aren't even considering them.

I'm going to ask pooky about the auto very soon. His XC has a fully manualised 3 speed in it and he can hook me up very nicely with internal modifications to the stock CA18DET AWD auto box. The advantage to that, is i'm sure there are alot of auto AWD CA18DET boxes around from people who got cuts for pulsars or whatever, and no longer need the boxes. Hence, spares will be easy to come by.

And the auto will bolt right up to the CA18DET... suprising that!

fraz · « **Reply #53 on:** Aug 19, 2004, 05:58AM »

Just drill out the oil hole to the clutch packs from the servo with a 3/4 drill (i think) It will make it change gear with much more force and speed

I have seen it done on a falcon box, but i havent seen inside a fwd nissan one

I dont think awd->fwd box is a good idea. These are big boxes, the centre diff and housing are part of the box and cany really be removed. Also- say you disconnect the rear shaft, then what, as if you leave it to spin, then the centre diff will transfer all the drive to it and youwont move.
Same thing if you fix it so it cant spin, then you will have 2x the drive at the front which would blow the centre diff
Next time im at the importers, ill get some pics

SSS · « **Reply #54 on:** Aug 19, 2004, 08:00PM »

If i were doing this, i'd remove the transfer case/centre diff and make sure it's only driving the front driveshafts.

Budgie · « **Reply #55 on:** Aug 20, 2004, 02:45PM »

Hummmm. We'll i'm going to have an AWD box to muck around with anyway, so we'll have to see.

SSS · « **Reply #56 on:** Aug 20, 2004, 04:57PM »

Quote from: Budginator on Aug 20, 2004, 02:45PM

Hummmm. We'll i'm going to have an AWD box to muck around with anyway, so we'll have to see.

Damn straight.

Budgie · « **Reply #57 on:** Oct 22, 2004, 12:42PM »

Some pics and updated info. I've since bought an RNU12 bluebird instead of performing this swap. Here are some pics that will shed more light on the swap for anyone wanting to do it.

The crossmember from the U12 would have to be removed and replaced with mounts used by the RNU12. Notice the missing crossmember on the bluebird running from radiator to firewall. This cross member on the U12 holds the left hand engine mount (radiator mount) and the right hand mount (firewall mount). On the bluebird these mounts are totally differant, especially the right hand mount on the firewall.

Notice the big 'pipe' on the bluebird running across the front of the car. This is square on the U12. Another differance.

The front engine mount is exactly the same on each car.

The rear engine mount is also exactly the same. This is a shot of the bluebirds mount (under the battery tray).

The left hand mount that sits infront of the radiator (its the same on auto and manual bluebirds). Auto CA20E & KA24E powered U12's don't have a mount here (manual's do). Its differant to the manual mounts on the aussie delivered cars though. To perform a swap, this would have to be changed, it mounts onto the 'pipe' like cross member that runs along the front of the bluebird. On the manual CA20E's and KA24E's this mount is connected to the cross member that runs from radiator to firewall, which is missing on the bluebird.

The major differance between the two motors and their mounts. The bluebirds right hand engine mount (firewall mount) is located much higher up than the aussie cars. It does not bolt onto the crossmember as discussed earlier, but bolts onto a bracket that is welded directly onto the firewall. This bracket does not exists on the CA20E powered U12's. It would have to be welded on, or the bluebird mount adapted to suit the CA20E's existing mount location.

You can see the brown mount on the CA20E car sits right down next to the exhausts flex pipe. The bluebirds mount sits much higher up, about half way up the firewall.

And one final pic of the two engine bays just for kicks.

noss · « **Reply #58 on:** Oct 22, 2004, 12:58PM »

budge just thinking, did you bother to measure all this up? although the mounts might be different (i.e. no crossmember on the bluebird) the mounts on the local u12 might line up with the engine, meaning no change of mounts. you cant really say that the mounts wont fit unless you stick the ca18det in the local u12 or measure it up accurately.

Budgie · « **Reply #59 on:** Oct 22, 2004, 01:02PM »

Nope, i didn't measure it up. Im just posting this stuff up as a bit of extra info for people.

There is no way the right hand mount would fit (firewall), not in a million years. It would not bolt straight up, modifcations would have to be done.

The left hand mount (radiator) could be adapted I think.