Author Topic: Does the U12 and r31 pintara share the same ecu? 4000rpm limited  (Read 6345 times)

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Offline h4inf

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Just wondering because I'm having this problem where I'm limited to 4000rpm basically and the car runs like absolute crap!

The ECU reports Error Code 22 - Fuel Pump. The fuel pump is running and I can hear it. I tested the pressure and it maintains 40psi. The car starts and idles ok, even drives okayish but has next to no power when you need it going up hill.

I did some runs on freeway and uphill with a wideband O2 sensor in the exhaust, the mixtures are fine, so it appears something is causing spark to retard, probably something to do with the ECU thinking the fuel pump isnt working?

Any ideas?? Maybe also related- the tps connector for the transmission.

Cheers,

Paul.

Offline dave-trx

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According to a post jono wrote they are different. I cant remember exactly what it was. Jono knows his CA20E's.

Jono post a response.
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Offline Kranzy

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Is the car running crap all the time or just when its over 4k?
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Offline h4inf

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It runs crap all the time. Will not pass 4k, there is a definite limit that seems to be electrically applied - perhaps the ECU is cutting spark or limiting fuel when this happens.

If i'm on the freeway at say 3krpm and force the auto to upshift by flooring the pedal, naturally the revs will want to jump to about 4500, but the revs bounce off 4k and the auto is very confused as the revs wont go  high enough to go fast enough so it keeps flipping back and fourth really fast lol.

Say I put the auto into L and drive, it will bounce at 4k as well. Some sort of definite limp mode, just not sure what it is and what it has to do with 'fuel pump' error. Fuel pump is working lol.

Cheers!

Offline Byas

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Yeah seems to be the so called "limp home mode". check your speed sensor in your gear box. theres a heap of articles talking about this littered around the site giving other probable options also...

good luck with it to mate... it can a bticch!
« Last Edit: Jul 21, 2007, 02:25PM by Byas »
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Offline h4inf

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OK figured it- DISTRIBUTOR.

Probably centrifugal advance... I will pull it apart and find out for sure this week... swapped the dizzy over with another and it works fine. This makes sense.. its probably not advancing the timing, or getting stuck or something :)

So there we go. ~4000rpm hesitation when warmed up probably is the distributor centri advance :P maybe vac related too... i will get back with more info. Hopefully will help someone out one day.

Offline Kranzy

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Yeah seems to be the so called "limp home mode". check your speed sensor in your gear box. theres a heap of articles talking about this littered around the site giving other probable options also...

good luck with it to mate... it can a bticch!

Just for future reference, limp home mode is 2500rpm. Most people dont shift above 4k anyway so it would be pointless having a safe mode that high.
Quote from: noss
learnt something new just then, dont eat baked bean sandwhiches while changing the paper in the copier


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Offline Byas

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yeah im mildly aware of that but ive heard people also talking about doing 8k shifts in their (enter rice hatch here) so i kinda ignore when people talk rev range mostly now
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Offline SSS

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OK figured it- DISTRIBUTOR.

Probably centrifugal advance... I will pull it apart and find out for sure this week... swapped the dizzy over with another and it works fine. This makes sense.. its probably not advancing the timing, or getting stuck or something :)

So there we go. ~4000rpm hesitation when warmed up probably is the distributor centri advance :P maybe vac related too... i will get back with more info. Hopefully will help someone out one day.

EFI distributors do not have vacuum/mechanical advance where the ECU control ignition timing.

Offline h4inf

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EFI distributors do not have vacuum/mechanical advance where the ECU control ignition timing.

This is an r31 pintara in case you were confused. It does have vac and centrif advance... It is right here in front of me. Seem to get more answers in this forum, not much support in r31 section :)

Offline wombat

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yeah, there's not much support in R31 section since Matt hasn't been around.

4k is the point that the second spark plugs stop working. I'd chase spark plugs and leads.

I'm going to get stuck into the FSM and see if it tells me one way or the other which plugs fire. You say one side, I say the other. So therefore one of us is wrong. The Service manual should tell us the way it should be.

Not having a go at you, just being a bit short of words today - I just had to put out flames in my kitchen. No damage, except to the cookware ~whew~
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Offline h4inf

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yeah, there's not much support in R31 section since Matt hasn't been around.

4k is the point that the second spark plugs stop working. I'd chase spark plugs and leads.

I'm going to get stuck into the FSM and see if it tells me one way or the other which plugs fire. You say one side, I say the other. So therefore one of us is wrong. The Service manual should tell us the way it should be.

Not having a go at you, just being a bit short of words today - I just had to put out flames in my kitchen. No damage, except to the cookware ~whew~

lucky!!! Yeah it would be good to know how the dual ignition actually works - I have a feeling that it quite possibly differs between R31 and U12 though, which could be the cause of the disagreeance. Also i've got my pintara working now :) If I have any more problems or have some spare cash, i'm going to buy the FSM from nissan, as the gregories is not exactly full of detail :)

I'm interested to hear what the FSM says about the ignition...

Offline wombat

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i'm only looking at the Ford Corsair (UA = U12 Pintara) I've got an R31 too, mate.

FSM is about a hundred bucks and covers both R31 Skyline and Pintara. Occasionally they pop up on ebay and or r31skylineclub
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Offline h4inf

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heyy i got my own FSM :) This is pretty great information: :D



It doesn't say which side is which, but when you think about it, really it doesn't matter - I guess only for testing it would be handy to know, but that really depends on how your car is wired up... :) Basically the intake and exhaust plugs are both in the exact same location, so it doesn't really matter which side is which :)

Under heavy load, the engine falls back to a single plug per cylinder system to reduce vibration (according to FSM) - I am guessing it is most accurate to just use one coil/part of the dizzy and set of plugs to get perfectly smooth operation. After all most piston engines produced only have a single plug per cyl :P