Post Pod Filter Hesitation

[CPenguin]

Howdy,

My apologises if this has been covered somewhere else but I have not been able to find anything on this specific probably and would like a bit of advice.

Recently (today) I finally decided to install a K&N Pod Filter on my U12 1990 Pintara TRX (Auto). Elsewhere on the forums it is mentioned that I would also require a N14 Pulsar Pod Filter Adaptor Kit. I could not find that specifically but I found the next closest thing that was on the shelf. After completely the project to my satisfaction (for no anyway) I took her around the block.

I found that taking off from my driveway the car hesitated and the Revs dropped, similar to how it behaves when the MAF is not operating. However after it speeds up gradually this problem disappears, until the car slows again and the Auto drops it into first. Secondly, not so much a problem but a quirk I was curious about, normally the powerband that comes in between 2800rpm and 3200rpm (approx) did not kick in when the car is accelerating in second gear.

I have two theories so far; 1) I have either damaged the path from the MAF to the throttle body, or I have done a sub-standard job of installing the adaptor kit (although this is in line before the MAF) and as such the MAF could be trying to retard the timing? 2) I could now be sucking too much hot air?

I was careful not to damage the MAF during the installation, and the Temperature sensor is literally crammed in between the pod and it's mounting through the rubber lip.

If I have left out any vital clues let me know, but otherwise, does anyone have any ideas about what could be wrong?

Thanks in advance,

~Reece

[CPenguin]

I'm also an idiot who navigated to entirely the wrong forum section to post the above. Sorry everybody, could someone move that for me please.

~Reece

[eurisko]

Well, thats no problem... at least you picked up ur mistake and apologised!

But, the post pod filter problems arent uncommon... and its happend to me and LC_TRX that i know of.

Whats happening is the k&n oil in the pod is fouling the hot wire in the afm. You have 2 choices to fix it.

1) Do nothing, and wait a few weeks untill the filter oil burns up and is reduced in the filter...

2) Buy a oil filter cleaning kit, and clean your filter. Re-oil EXTREMELY lightly until it is just barely pink.

Hope it helps.

[CPenguin]

Hmm... Driving like this for a few weeks could get annoying.

I'll have to buy a 'Recharge' kit to re-oil eventually I suppose. Plus I want to clean my old Redline highflow panel filter for the sake of eBaying it.

I think I will go with the latter. Thank you very much, eurisko. If anything interesting happens I will let you know  .

~Reece

[rathies]

hmm i've never heard of this, i oiled my k&n pod a fair bit inside and out, no hesitation. would cleaning the hotwire with contact cleaner give a bit of improvement? obviously depends how much excess oil is still on the filter.

[eurisko]

Well, LC_TRX and I bought the same Apollo cai from K&N, and he had exactly the same problems like i did. Cleaning the filter, and lightly oiling it fixed it straight away.... but i found that out after a few weeks of driving the car with the problems... There is a reason why they say DONT use a oiled filter on a hotwire afm.

[xxxx]

drive the car for a couple days until all the excess oil is sucked into the intake and then a quick few squirts of contact cleaner should permenantly fix youre problem. it did for me.

[LC_TRX]

yep, part of my problem was what has been explained by eurisko. but there was another problem. my car would drop down to around 400 rom as i depressed the clutch and creep uo to around 700 when i was sitting at the lights.

Upon closer inspection of my install, i found that my adapter was not connected to the throttle body well enough. there were gaps on the edge which meant that air was escaping into the engine bay and not into the throttle body. i took the adapter off and replaced it with a silicone reducer which fitted snugly into the hole of the throttle body. problem solved. there was some roughness still but i would put that down to excess oil on the filter when it came from the factory.

my suggestion, inspect the install and make sure there are no holes, gaps etc. check that the MAF sensor is not damaged if these seem ok, give it a bit of time.

[CPenguin]

Just so we can have a bit of closure, the hesitation has stopped. When I first wrote the pod filter was flapping around unsecured at the end of my intake. Since then, I have mounted it to where the old air box was mounted, added a heat shield and sealed the MAF to my adaptor kit with Auto Silicon (Ultra Blue, sensor safe silicon around $15 from SuperCheap). After roughly 190kms, the hesitation has stopped, I dare say for a variety of reasons. My next step is to properly secure the temperature sensor (instead of stuffing it into the pod) and a very basic piping of cold air to the area.

Still when I select second and accelerate from say 20km upwards, I don't get the extra kick at 2800rpm I used to. I assume that the little kick is now spread out over a wider range of rpm and as such I don't really notice it. Thanks for your help all whom have answered.

On an unrelated note I was wonder if anyone has a silver rectangular box underneath where the old air box was with the words 'Jecs Made In Japan' then various serial numbers. It appears to connect to several wires that lead to a connection above my Transmission fluid dip stick. If they do, do you know what it is\does? I believe JECS stands for Japan Electronic Control System, and a quick search of Google\Wikipedia leads me to believe it is a stock part. A search of the forums seems to relate JECS more to injectors than any other part.

~Reece