Author Topic: Shift Light.... with a difference :D (Read 32859 times)

eurisko · « **Reply #60 on:** Oct 11, 2006, 10:16PM »

Lol... just to clarify, it will have the ABILITY to have 30 outputs... but standard kits will only have 10.

This will allow you to have 2, 3 or more lights, or any number of separate outputs.

An add on board will be needed to increase its range. Each succesive board will change the sensitivty by 30db. That means 2 boards will have a 60db range, 3 will have 90db....

The sensitivity of each individual board is independant. Ill have a prototype built this weekend... I still see there is some interest so ill hurry it up.

I might just end up giving this thing away... lol i cant really be bothered trying to make a few extra bucks from this.... lol

*Shrugs*

Jono · « **Reply #61 on:** Oct 11, 2006, 10:42PM »

Quote from: rathies on Oct 11, 2006, 09:54PM

Don't you think 30 outputs is overkill jono?

Who say what now

Eurisko is making the kits

Quote from: rathies on Oct 11, 2006, 09:54PM

i guess you could use a few to trigger a spark plug at the end of the exhaust sytem, that would bring about the need for excessive fuel to be floating around too..soo another output can trigger an auxillary fuel pump! its 110% illeagal but you'd have some flames.

I did something like that on a road bike a while ago, only it cut the spark to the engine and ran a coil with a wire in the exhaust pipe. Ended up getting 40cm long blue flames, pretty cool at night

Colby · « **Reply #62 on:** Oct 12, 2006, 12:15AM »

Do i hear flame throwers?

i know its highly illegal, but that would be pretty bloody cool. Especially since it is switchable.. good way to stop those tail gaters

Jono · « **Reply #63 on:** Oct 12, 2006, 12:32AM »

This was on my drivewa... I mean in a controlled environment

The flames weren't just a blue fuzz like the pic shows, they were more like conventional flames with swirly patterns and stuff, only blue instead of yellow.

MAG86 · « **Reply #64 on:** Oct 25, 2006, 08:47AM »

Whats the go so far matey!

Ive been hanging out for more info for a few weeks now!

Any chance of a prototype??

eurisko · « **Reply #65 on:** Oct 25, 2006, 10:40AM »

Sorry bout that champ, Like i said, the design is made, but ive been kinda focused on the head conversion.

If you want, ill draw up the design (schematic) tonight, and post it up tomorrow. I dont think ill get time to proto it anytime soon, so you and everyone else can have a looksie.

Sound good?

MAG86 · « **Reply #66 on:** Oct 25, 2006, 11:53AM »

SHWEET!

Thanks and karma+

Loop · « **Reply #67 on:** Oct 26, 2006, 10:34AM »

It's tomorrow already

eurisko · « **Reply #68 on:** Oct 26, 2006, 10:43AM »

Hahahah I did the drawings last night, and realised how appauling my handwriting is. Ill use a ruler this time, and actually take my time!

Itll come guys, and its worth it!

eurisko · « **Reply #69 on:** Oct 28, 2006, 09:29PM »

I know i know. Relax. LOL!

Here it is fellas.... unprototyped, but you get the gist.

Use the power supply to power all IC's.

The input filter is connected to the Tacho input, then the output goes to the Voltage to current converter (LM2917). That connects to the Bar graph driver (LM3196)

Thats it. The LED's connect to the 10 outputs from the Bar driver. This circuit is set on DOT mode, as in one LED will drive at a time. To change to BAR mode, which illuminates all LEDs sequentially, connect pin 9 to +Ve. For more info, check the technical data on National Semiconductor.

Ill write up a proper detailed explaination tomorrow.

Cheers guys.

Jono · « **Reply #70 on:** Oct 29, 2006, 01:30PM »

That's very similar to the LED tacho I made a while back... same IC's and stuff.

Good work mate

eurisko · « **Reply #71 on:** Oct 29, 2006, 05:14PM »

*Nods*

The first chip, is a frequency to voltage converter, which changes the frequency of pulses from the ecu, to a linear voltage.

The second chip, is the bar/led driver, which gets a voltage, and switches outputs accordingly.

I cbf right now... big night last night

but ill go through the adjustments that can be made on the circuits.

On chip one, it sets up the sensitivity of the circuit... the gain basically.

Chip 2 has 2 adjustments, one is again sensitivity, which is like the gain or how quickly it will switch the outputs. The second set, is for LED brightness. This you may need to setup differently according to the LED current. It has a large adjustment, but check the specs just to make sure.

Its not a hard circuit to make, and purely analog, a digital circuit was in the works... but like ive said earlier, i really cant be bothered trying to make a few extra bucks for the hassle. :p

I have a more important project right now

HIRO · « **Reply #72 on:** Nov 6, 2006, 10:49PM »

I'v said it once and I will say it again Eurisko. . . Wicked! When I first seen it Pintara Boy showed your tacho mod on U-Tube while he was on line talking to you. Played the video over and over again, bloody awsome. I am going to do it for sure.

eurisko · « **Reply #73 on:** Nov 12, 2006, 07:24PM »

Thanks mate, hopefully my explanations are clear enough to follow!

Heres a quick update. I added adjustable brightness control, which lets u make it REALLY bright, or dim. I prefer dim, so its not as distracting, but bright is for the "Uela bro! Fast and furious!" moments

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jh_m2vu8aJc

Meh... thank chr15 for making me make the video

Virus · « **Reply #74 on:** Nov 13, 2006, 02:31PM »

argh and im still trying to source a I/C

cant wait to get this done. Lemme know if u can get that one we were talking about.

chr1S · « **Reply #75 on:** Nov 13, 2006, 03:55PM »

it's a fukn S

eurisko · « **Reply #76 on:** Nov 13, 2006, 07:49PM »

Im sure it is *nods sarcastically*

lol

Other than that, what IC virus? If you want, just buy the jaycar kit, much easier and works 100%

Otherwise, the IC's should be readily available anywhere....

Edit: IC means instrument cluster.... *shakes head* Disregard the above comments... :S

chr1S · « **Reply #77 on:** Nov 13, 2006, 08:27PM »

bahaha, noobie

Virus · « **Reply #78 on:** Nov 13, 2006, 09:58PM »

Every Instrument cluster i find is either fucked or i cant get it :S

Edit: Scrap that, looks like ive got one

:D

Dimenx · « **Reply #79 on:** Nov 18, 2006, 12:44PM »

Um... I have a question, how do you actually take out the needle? I tried to take it out, but that was kind of glued and I was afraid to break something, so I left that neegle alone

JelloBello · « **Reply #80 on:** Nov 18, 2006, 01:54PM »

The needles normally come off pretty easily... there's no glue involved at all

just get a good grip on the black bit of the needle and give it a pull while slightly twisting it... if that fails then perhaps try some pliers?

Jono · « **Reply #81 on:** Nov 18, 2006, 01:55PM »

Carefully slide a screw driver under the black part of the needle and twist it to pop the needle off.

Dimenx · « **Reply #82 on:** Nov 18, 2006, 03:22PM »

I was just trying to avoid taking the needle out... with the axis still in it

Thanks for the tip

Gibbo · « **Reply #83 on:** Feb 3, 2008, 05:03PM »

yes i know this thread is old. lol , cheers for all the hard wrk . was looking for a stealth tacho/ shift light

chr1S · « **Reply #84 on:** Feb 4, 2008, 05:36PM »

what a f'n useless post, you could of pm'd him that ffs.

Unbalanced_ · « **Reply #85 on:** Feb 4, 2008, 06:49PM »

Wow, that looks pretty cool. Im glad someone re-ignited this post, I hadnt seen it before, and now im glad i did.

nokey · « **Reply #86 on:** Feb 5, 2008, 09:50PM »

that looks fucking sweet,good idea never thought of that.

horndog · « **Reply #87 on:** Feb 13, 2008, 02:30PM »

Quote from: eurisko on Oct 28, 2006, 09:29PM

I know i know. Relax. LOL!

Here it is fellas.... unprototyped, but you get the gist.

Use the power supply to power all IC's.

The input filter is connected to the Tacho input, then the output goes to the Voltage to current converter (LM2917). That connects to the Bar graph driver (LM3196)

Thats it. The LED's connect to the 10 outputs from the Bar driver. This circuit is set on DOT mode, as in one LED will drive at a time. To change to BAR mode, which illuminates all LEDs sequentially, connect pin 9 to +Ve. For more info, check the technical data on National Semiconductor.

Ill write up a proper detailed explaination tomorrow.

Cheers guys.

I saw your post on the above shift light schematic. I want to build one for my motorbike for drag racing. Can I just use the LM2917 without the LM3196?
I just want an array of highh bright LEDS to come on at the desired RPM which I want to make selectable via trimpots? I want to be able to activate the lights up to a frequency of 1000hz.

edecisions · « **Reply #88 on:** Sep 19, 2009, 02:26AM »

Quote from: eurisko on Oct 28, 2006, 09:29PM

I know i know. Relax. LOL!

Here it is fellas.... unprototyped, but you get the gist.

Use the power supply to power all IC's.

The input filter is connected to the Tacho input, then the output goes to the Voltage to current converter (LM2917). That connects to the Bar graph driver (LM3196)

Thats it. The LED's connect to the 10 outputs from the Bar driver. This circuit is set on DOT mode, as in one LED will drive at a time. To change to BAR mode, which illuminates all LEDs sequentially, connect pin 9 to +Ve. For more info, check the technical data on National Semiconductor.

Ill write up a proper detailed explaination tomorrow.

Cheers guys.

I'm working on a simular project, I used the Typical Applications from page 10 of the lm2917 for a Voltage drive meter indicating engine RPM, seems to work good from 0RPM to 2200RPM, once I hit 2200 rpm the output voltage drops off and the leds start to turn off till I show 0RPM

My input is connected to the TACH out on a GM HEI, when I put my HZ meter to the port I get 1KHZ to 4KHZ throu 3000 RPM, I'm sure that I'm getting such a high reading because its showing all 8 Cyl's, if I devide by 8 I get 125hz to 500hz for a single cyl.

My question is, how do I correct the issue at high RPM that causes my voltage to drop to zero rather than to continue to climb, I get to about 4V at the point where it drops.

Ken

edecisions · « **Reply #89 on:** Sep 21, 2009, 08:58AM »

This is just a follow up, I solved the issue with my HEI and thought I'd leave some info here for anyone else that might be having the same issue.

Issue was on my HEI as I'd rev the engine the voltage would go up as it should, then at the higher end the voltage would fall off to zero.

The answer was on page 7 of the datasheet for the lm2917, fmax- I2/c1xVcc, dropping the current flow of the input signal by using a smaller resister to drain off current resolved the issue, so I'm one happy guy.