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U12 Bluebird, Pintara & Stanza => maintenance issues => Topic started by: Colby on Jun 19, 2011, 12:20PM
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Doing my clutch at the moment, just trying to decide if it's drop engine operation or can it be done leaving engine up and just drop box?
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Gearbox out.
But easier with engine out in my opinion ;)
It is still a pain in the ass.
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I just dropped the gearbox when I did mine, as per all U12 jobs, it's a bit of a pain.
Good luck with it, I was considering engine out when I did mine, but thought it's probably the same effort either way.
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I just dropped the box and left the engine in, 6 hours later I had a new clutch ^_^
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I find it easier with the engine in.
Brace the engine from the top, remove crossmember and drop the box.
I can have the box out in about 40mins - 1hr on average. Yes I've had the box off that much I know an average time.
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Paul, you mean use one of those bars with padded ends that sits on the 1/4 guard sills, chains to the motor yeah?
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Yep, thats exactly what we used.
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I need to make myself one of those...
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Thanks for the feedback, I was thinking I'd just drop the box, but recall last time it was a bitch to connect up again in mid air.
I will just drop the box. Don't have a Crane or block&tackle or anything to help lift it again. I have done it all with the cross member in place. Any suggestions on the best way to mate it back up to engine?
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Thanks for the feedback, I was thinking I'd just drop the box, but recall last time it was a bitch to connect up again in mid air.
I will just drop the box. Don't have a Crane or block&tackle or anything to help lift it again. I have done it all with the cross member in place. Any suggestions on the best way to mate it back up to engine?
I just managed with two jacks under it and levered it back up. I had a large stick to help get it in place. Not sure if that helps you any :)
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The easiest way I have found is to use the two starter motor bolts (as they're quite long) lift the box so the shaft has lined up with the clutch.
It doesn't have to mesh and push all the way in. Using the starter bolts, put them in the top two holes that bolt the gearbox to the engine. Can be easier with a second person.
Once those bolts are in and threaded a few turns the gearbox wont move. You can then manouver the box until it meshes into position. Then put the other bolts back in.
I hope that makes sense. It's how I did it until I found out Jono has a hoist :-p
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Easiest way to lift the gearbox I have found is getting a garage jack and placing a thick (3/4 inch or so, and a couple a feet square) piece of mdf on top of it then just lift it up. Wobbles around a lot less.
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Sweet, that was the plan... one length of MDF and a few bricks. I was worried that I might need a crane or something to lift it from above instead.
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Sweet, that was the plan... one length of MDF and a few bricks. I was worried that I might need a crane or something to lift it from above instead.
You don't need one, but it would make it heaps easier I reckon. :)
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So I got it out no probs, only missed one bolt which set me back about 30min.
I pull off the HD clutch and to my surprise it looks like it has almost as much meat on it at the brand new clutch! Clearly still has the 'slots' in both sides and is nowhere near the rivet heads. I'm unsure that it was the problem. I'll try put up some pics tonight.
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(http://i252.photobucket.com/albums/hh40/Baino182/IMG_0045.jpg)
So the rear plate is the new one, the front plate is the existing clutch.
By my scientific measure (how far up the mechanical pencil point) the clutch has worn about 1mm on each side, so I'll keep the existing in for a bit longer (done about 70,00 at my guess).
I now have the question of why did my clutch slip... I noticed when cracking open the gearbox a bit of oil & moisture ran out from the bell housing, and the housing was quite oily inside. So that could explain the slip. With no obvious sign of leak from the crankshaft it appears that the oil must have come through the throw out fork hole (the boot keeps popping out).
Now the mission to lift it back in. Suprisingly the gearbox is not as heavy as I remember.
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I would suggest the slipping was due to either the oil or the slave cylinder not being adjusted properly so when your foot was off the clutch it didn't fully disengage so under load it would slip.
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I find it easier with the engine in.
Brace the engine from the top, remove crossmember and drop the box.
I can have the box out in about 40mins - 1hr on average. Yes I've had the box off that much I know an average time.
Wanna install a lightened flywheel for me ? I'll pay you $$$ :D
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does anyone know what the rubber thing on the driveshaft is for? I'm guessing its some sort of vibration stop. Is there going to be drastic consequences if I remove it forever?
(http://i252.photobucket.com/albums/hh40/Baino182/IMG_0060.jpg)