| destination | normal parcel post (3-5 days) | express post (overnite) |
| melbourne suburbs | n/a | $10.00 |
| sydney | $10.00 | $19.00 |
| brisbane | $12.00 | $26.00 |
| adelaide | $10.00 | $19.00 |
| perth | $19.00 | $42.00 |
| canberra | $10.00 | $27.00 |
cams that will be used are generally in the 180,000 -> 220,000km age bracket. however, on your request, we can locate a low km camshaft for you at an extra cost
Have you found any rev limits with the hydraulic lifters?
noss is it alright if i send u my cam and 140 bucks (120 for grind, 20 for postage back to perth) in about a week or 2?
All up that would be $232... 120 for the grind, 100 deposit, 12 postage (is that the same to ipswich ?) and do you have a preferred payment method ?
Whether you’re building a street performance engine, a killer drag motor or a Winston Cup powerplant, the valvetrain requires special attention if you’re going to maximize reliability and performance. Most stock valvetrain components are only good up to about 5,500 rpm. Beyond that point, upgrades are necessary to handle the higher loads.
Even though the camshaft turns at only half the speed of the crankshaft (one revolution of the cam for every two revolutions of the crank), engine speed reaches a point where the springs can’t pull the valves shut quickly enough to keep the lifters on the cam. Instead of following the lobes back down to the base circle, the lifters begin to kick off their lobes. And the steeper the profile of the lobes, the worse the problem becomes as rpms go up.
When the springs can’t keep up with the cam, the lifters bang back down on the cam and bounce slightly, causing the valves to also bounce as they seat. In addition to increasing wear and the likelihood of fatigue failure, valve bounce also screws up airflow into and out of the combustion chamber and hurts high rpm performance.
If engine speed continues to increase, the point is soon reached where the springs can’t close the valves fast enough before they start to open again. The valves begin to "float" (stay open), which allows compression to blow right past the open valves. The engine begins to misfire, and if the driver doesn’t back off on the throttle he runs the risk of a valve kissing a piston goodbye.
If you’re installing a new cam, replace the lifters too. Never use worn lifters on a new cam unless you want to wipe out the lobes in short order. Use plenty of assembly lube on the cam lobes to protect them when the engine is first started, and run the engine at 2,000 rpm or more for 20 minutes after the initial start up to break-in the new components. Don’t let the engine idle during this critical break-in period.
Jim Hill of Crane Cams, Daytona Beach, FL, says cam selection is what determines an engine’s power curve and personality. A typical street engine might never see more than 6,200 rpm while a racing engine will usually turn up to 8,000 to 9,000 rpm or higher. So you need to pick a cam and lifter combination that matches the application.
For street engines, hydraulic lifters are usually better than solid or mechanical lifters for several reasons. Hydraulic lifters automatically maintain zero valve lash so they don’t have to be readjusted periodically. They’re also quieter. But for all-out performance, many racers prefer solid or mechanical flat tappet lifters or roller lifters because they can handle higher rpms without pumping up.
ok, so why do u need to have them machined if your running your cam without them being machined?? can you explain what machining the caps achieves please
Noss is still around, and it's a fair question. So IMO the thread dig is warranted.
I don't believe noss can get cams done any more, but I'd wait for him to confirm that first.