Author Topic: Urgent help.  (Read 30417 times)

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Offline Pure_Sincerity

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #60 on: Feb 27, 2013, 09:54AM »
I'm afraid I missed that post, I will try that after work today.
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Offline Pure_Sincerity

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #61 on: Feb 27, 2013, 03:47PM »
I don't quite understand the jumper pins part. Anyone explain ?
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Offline SSS

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #62 on: Feb 27, 2013, 04:33PM »
Do this first:

right click My Computer -> System Properties -> Hardware -> Device Manager

Scroll down to Ports (COM & LPT) and expand that tab, select Communications Port (COM 1), right click and select properties.

Under General tab, make sure it say "This device is working properly", and device usage is set to "Use this device (Enable)"

Then go to Port Settings tab and set them to what Crazy said in his earlier post; no need to do the trick with the Com cable unless you don't have access to another PC (be it laptop or desktop).


Offline Pure_Sincerity

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #63 on: Feb 27, 2013, 06:32PM »
Do this first:

right click My Computer -> System Properties -> Hardware -> Device Manager

Scroll down to Ports (COM & LPT) and expand that tab, select Communications Port (COM 1), right click and select properties.

Under General tab, make sure it say "This device is working properly", and device usage is set to "Use this device (Enable)"

Then go to Port Settings tab and set them to what Crazy said in his earlier post; no need to do the trick with the Com cable unless you don't have access to another PC (be it laptop or desktop).



Cant do it your way, nothing you stated even comes close to how my laptop is setup, (windows 7) i get as far as "Device Manager" then there is nothing about ports.

Than doing it crazys way, I link pins 2 and 3 together with an alligator clip, download HTPE and get as far as the "Connect to" window, than after that, no matter what i put, wether it be COM1, COM2 or any random numbers with or without "COM" written in front of it, it always comes up saying it is unable to connect.
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Offline SSS

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #64 on: Feb 27, 2013, 06:34PM »
Has your laptop even got a com port? Or is it all usb?

Offline Pure_Sincerity

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #65 on: Feb 27, 2013, 06:40PM »
Well the cable I have for the MS is a DB9 to USB cable.

as for the COM port, I have 3 USB ports, an ethernet cable port and a port that looks like a DB9 but takes 15 pins. so probably not ?
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Offline SSS

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #66 on: Feb 27, 2013, 07:09PM »

Offline Pure_Sincerity

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #67 on: Feb 27, 2013, 07:31PM »
Once again, I don't have com ports listed in the device manager on either laptops (mine or brothers) both running windows 7.

GAAAAAY.

what the fuck megasquirt.....
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Offline Pure_Sincerity

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #68 on: Feb 27, 2013, 07:50PM »
http://www.tri-plc.com/USB-RS232/drivers.htm

The downloadable program allows you to create VCP (Virtual Com Ports) via USB ports. I may give this a shot later on when I get access to the Internet again.
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Offline crazy2287

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #69 on: Feb 27, 2013, 08:13PM »
Protip, get an older laptop with a com port. You DO NOT NEED a million ghz to run megatune/tunerstudio. All your woes gone.

Or get an oldish laptop (pre 64bit) with usb only and run windows xp to maximize your compatibility. The mobo should have the rs232 ready hardware/softwear conversions for running a com port then MOST rs232 to USB adapters will work. and show up as a proper RS232 port in hardware. Support is dropping for the serial port but really that just means you can get a $100 laptop and throw it around in your car and make it a dedicated tuning laptop. Win win.

Good luck with configuring anyway!, i have not tried on any new or windows 7 laptops. I use a Dell D620 which have good specs for a com port capable laptop and can be had for less then $200.
http://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?_trksid=p5197.m570.l1313&_nkw=dell+d620&_sacat=0&_from=R40


*edit*

Just found this one, Good price, includes a 9 cell battery which should give you ok battery life. Important for when your datalogging or when you first get out there and start tuning.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Dell-Latitude-D620-Laptop-with-Docking-Station-extended-battery-/130854057335?pt=AU_comp_laptop&hash=item1e77827577&_uhb=1#ht_500wt_1414
« Last Edit: Feb 27, 2013, 08:56PM by crazy2287 »
I drive like i screw..... illegally =D... wait O.o WHAT?? O.O

Offline Kranzy

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #70 on: Feb 27, 2013, 08:49PM »
If its anything like Nistune, when you install the driver it installs the required software to use the USB cable (USB to com) then you'll see the com ports show up in device manager.

Have you installed anything for the cable?

Where are you living now days?
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Offline Pure_Sincerity

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #71 on: Feb 27, 2013, 09:22PM »
If its anything like Nistune, when you install the driver it installs the required software to use the USB cable (USB to com) then you'll see the com ports show up in device manager.

Have you installed anything for the cable?

Where are you living now days?

I paid $50 for the cable with no CD or software when I new virtually nothing, I purchased it simply because it stated megasquirt tuning cable.

I've obtained my dads old laptop I dug out of the shed and it's windows XP. I plugged the cable in, and it comes up saying it needs software installed to use it, but It came with none. Will the driver in the link I posted earlier work ?

Also kranz, I live in forestlake, bout 15 minutes from you.
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Offline Budgie

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #72 on: Feb 27, 2013, 09:50PM »
I just bought a cheap Dell D610 with a built in serial port, almost as cheap the the cable/USB to serial adaptor.
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Offline Kranzy

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #73 on: Feb 27, 2013, 11:16PM »
No driver --> No Com Port --> No Workie!

You need to find software for your cable.
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Offline SSS

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #74 on: Feb 28, 2013, 06:05AM »
Should be a generic USB to Serial driver.

edit: holy crap, look what google showed me in less than 30 secs: http://www.msextra.com/doc/ms2extra/serial_setup.html

What cable is it? There are drivers here, but they may not work if it's not one of their cables: http://www.symtechlabs.com/support/knowledgebase/megasquirt:usb-serial_adapter_connectivity

Try this driver here too: http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/usb-to-serial-adapter-works-with-megatune-p-67.html


Aaron, on a serious note, everyone is happy to help, but you CANNOT feed us tiny bits of info and expect us to work it all out for you. Screen shots and as much detailed info helps immensely. Vaguely worded posts do not.
If you don't know something, don't be scared to admit it, no one is going to bag you out for it.
If you had of said from the outset that you didn't know anything about configuring com ports, you probably would have had the engine started already without this backwards and forwards with snippits of info.

Anyway, get off the web and get the thing started already.
« Last Edit: Feb 28, 2013, 06:17AM by SSS »

Offline chr1S

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #75 on: Feb 28, 2013, 08:24AM »
I demand vids, of idle and WOT, HD.
Don't let the opinions of the average man sway you. Dream, and he thinks you're crazy. Succeed, and he thinks you're lucky. Acquire wealth, and he thinks you're greedy. Pay no attention. He simply doesn't understand.

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to be fair, it wouldn't be ANTRX if we stayed on topic.

and if someone wasn't cranky at Chr1s for something he said...

Offline Pure_Sincerity

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #76 on: Feb 28, 2013, 09:05AM »
Anyway, get off the web and get the thing started already.

Yes sir.

I demand vids, of idle and WOT, HD.

Vids yes, idle yes, WOT no. This will be an open header start, need to get the secondaries extended to fit the primaries. WOT will come later after a final tune with the wideband etcx
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Offline noss

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #77 on: Feb 28, 2013, 01:43PM »
a bit slow but +1 for windows xp for tuning

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Offline Pure_Sincerity

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #78 on: Mar 2, 2013, 03:59PM »
EVERYTHING IS A SUCCESS SO FAR.

downloaded the proper device driver for the tuning cable, chaged the properties over etc in device manager, hooked up the laptop to the ecu as a Successful connection all good to go, the tables were reading the dwell settings, TPS and MAP sensor.

BUT than this pops up



Ideas ? need a new version of megatune ?
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Offline Pure_Sincerity

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #79 on: Mar 2, 2013, 04:56PM »
Research states that megatune is now obsolete for any Megasquirt firmware newer than V2.2 and since mine is the V3.0 extra it won't work. I have to use TunerStudioMS but I do not have a basemap that TunerStudioMS will load.... I may have to set everything from scratch.
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Offline SSS

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #80 on: Mar 2, 2013, 05:50PM »
You should be able to import the megatune map, or it should be available in a tunerstudio format.

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #81 on: Mar 2, 2013, 06:04PM »

Offline Pure_Sincerity

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #82 on: Mar 2, 2013, 06:18PM »
Tried that ages ago, only megatune reads it a it downloads in some Internet format.

Can you quickly check this for me ? I don't have net till I go back to my parents tomorrow. http://www.diyautotune.com/diypnp/apps/j64/usdm-nissan-240sx-8990-ka24-mt.html

Link is down the bottom of the page.
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Offline crazy2287

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #83 on: Mar 2, 2013, 08:34PM »
I dont get it? what are we checking?

And that is correct. to run the newest firmwares you need tuner studio. All the tables should import directly into tuner studio. The only time they will not is if the tables previous format/size does not match.

Open your .MSQ file offline in megatune and take some screenshots of the spark and fuel tables, paste into paint and save. use these for reference inside tunerstudio. While you there also open the fuel table/spark table window and go to file - export table. and save each table.

download tuner studio install and open and configure it to the ver of firmware your MS is running. the auto detect feature should work, if it does not check you baud settings are correct. MS2 and MS1 use different baud speeds and your serial will need to be configured to suit.

Once it is logged into the megasquirt try importing the tables you saved earlier. If this does not work you will have to manually import them. just split the screen shot of the table to one side of the screen and the tuner studio window on the other and start typing and using tab to go through the fields. Wont take long.
MAKE SURE YOUR BIN ENTRIES LINE UP, I'e the data in the column and row that dictates the map area.

Double and tripple check all settings. Especially ignition settings, dwell. Focus on getting a good injector dead time and REQ fuel value. Make sure EGO correction is OFF. Make sure rev limits are high up out of the way and overrun is disabled. Make sure your timing is Spot on the required base setting, Ie at the distributor (it's 15degrees for the KA's?) and dont push through engine knock, if you hear it, back off, fix it and then continue. Rule of thumb, when tuning spark, use 95 octain, increase 2 degrees at a time and as soon as you hear engine knock, back off 3 degrees. (once done tuning run 98octain and you should have plenty of buffer to avoid knock. The most power is not always made on the edge of detonation, the sweet spot is usually a few degrees before that. If you are not running enough timeing your exhaust headers will heat up very very hot and start burning shit in the engine bay, watch out for that.
You want all your timing in a soon as possible in the rpm range. Once you hit about 3000-4000rpm flat line the rest of your bins Ie carry the same value of the last tuned bin across all the remaining bins to the right. You can better and more safely tune this high rpm area on a dyno with a good set of knock ears as knocking up there can not always be easily heard.
Fuel maps will go up as you'd expect, but as you reach it's upper rpm it will typically taper down. This is normal. For safety don't go leaner at WOT, then 12.5:1 until you have the car on a dyno.
Strap yourself down because you are going to be in the driver seat idling and tapping the accelerator for a while before starting to drive. Don't go WOT straight away or you'll have an engine meltdown.
I strongly recommend you get a passenger to help you, sit them in the passenger seat and have them make live entries into the squirt as you tune.

Do not worry about warm-up, cranking and acceleration enrichment's at this stage except to get it started as they base themselves off the main fuel map, changing the fuel map changes ALL these corrections so you will just have to do them again if your not done building the fuel map.

If you want to leave a couple of rows, columns and bins at the ends of your able (beyond the vehicles limits) blank. Once you diagnose areas of the map that require more resolution you can shift these blank bins down and fill in the gaps.
« Last Edit: Mar 2, 2013, 08:47PM by crazy2287 »
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Offline Pure_Sincerity

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #84 on: Mar 3, 2013, 12:07AM »
Double and tripple check all settings. Especially ignition settings, dwell. Focus on getting a good injector dead time and REQ fuel value. Make sure EGO correction is OFF. Make sure rev limits are high up out of the way and overrun is disabled. Make sure your timing is Spot on the required base setting, Ie at the distributor (it's 15degrees for the KA's?) and dont push through engine knock, if you hear it, back off, fix it and then continue. Rule of thumb, when tuning spark, use 95 octain, increase 2 degrees at a time and as soon as you hear engine knock, back off 3 degrees. (once done tuning run 98octain and you should have plenty of buffer to avoid knock.

How do you increase the spark 2 degrees at a time ? Just click every box and up the number 2 degrees ? Lol this really isn't for me but I'm learning. As for fuel, I have 98 in the car now...

Went into the fuel calculator and set it to the following:
Engine displacement - 2480cc
No. Of cylinders - 4
Injector flow - 440cc
Air fuel ratio - 14.7 (already set at that)

Than standard injection window
Control algorithm - Alpha-N
Squirts per cycle - 2 (already pre set, should I change it ?)
Engine stroke - Four stroke
No. Of cylinders - 4
Injector port type - (should it be port injection or throttle body ?)
No. Of injectors - 4
Engine type - (even fire or odd fire ?)
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Offline SSS

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #85 on: Mar 3, 2013, 07:05AM »
Squirts per cycle should be 1, afaik, 2 squirts per cycle is for batch injection, not sequential like a KA.
Injection type should be port.
Fire order should be even.

Offline crazy2287

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #86 on: Mar 3, 2013, 10:47AM »
Is he/are you running full sequential or batch?
I have had not experience running full sequential.

You will only increase a row at a time. you will rough in the spark map while you are tuning fuel. Once you are happy with fuel to the rpm you are tuning, for example 0-4000, Start tuning the spark. As you have for fuel, make sure ALL spark table corrections are turned off when tuning. ambient, engine and intake air temp will make changes on how much timing you can run so take note of the temperatures while your tuning as they will help you extrapolate temperature based spark corrections later on.

Note: This is all at Wide open throttle/full noise
Going back to the tuning bit, your most critical area for spark is wide open throttle. On an NA motor (yourse) this will be at MAP (manifold air pressure) values of 90 to 100 centibar (= 100kpa = 1 bar. The values in the left column of bin values.) Lets say your top 3 bins are 90 - 95 - 100.
I would start with the 90 row been 1 degree LESS then the 95 row. and the 100 row been 2 degree less then that. Every engine is different and the zones of efficiency given by the cam will dictate the pattern that will emerge in the table. You say at 2000rpm you might be up to about 20 degrees. So you bins will be:
90kpa @ 2000rpm = 23
95kpa @ 2000rpm = 22
100kpa @ 2000rpm = 20

You will loose this pattern as you get the tune in. But to stat with. You will do a pull. From 500rpm, in top gear or 4th. plant your foot to the floor and listen carefully for engine knock. IF YOU DO NOT HEAR A KNOCK continue to Pull all the way to 4000rpm.
(If you hear a knock, diagnose exactly were on the table it occurred. decrease this value, and all the following locations by 3º. You should not be hearing knock this early or you are starting with your spark map to aggressive. This is the only time you will reduce all following locations. pull your whole map back and start afresh.)
When you do a pull you need to load the engine as much as you can, Finding a STEEP hill is important. Especially in the high RPM range, so you can use lower gears to get the high rpm without exceeding the speed limit.
Back off and use the cursor to grab and highlight the top 3 rows (90 - 95 - 100) from 500rpm to 4000 and use the sum field, top right of the window. put in 2. and hit the "+" and every highlighted field will increase by 2. (this is megatune, tuner studio might be different)

Do another pull.
Do this a few times and you will eventually hear engine knock. Diagnose that one location on the table and reduce it by 3. Note that location and do not change it again. Do another pull. reduce any locations that knock and do not touch them again. once you have completed a pull without knock, all the bins that DID NOT knock and need reducing, you can increase by 2. The bins that you have already had to reduce, do not touch them.

Once you have done this to the majority of the map you will start to see a pattern. It might rise quickly to 25 degrees by 2400rpm, then drop back to 21 degrees till 3000rpm then rise again till 33 degrees.

Make sure you frequently save changes.

Realise that the computer extrapolates the advance to 0.1 of a degree, based on a linear point between 4 map locations. So moving a single value, will effect readings given by all 8 locations around it.

it is for this reason that you may be able to get more spark, you can choose to do this step. make a backup of your current table. Increase all the bins from 1000-4000 by 2 degrees. And do a pull. repeat the process as above. reduce those values that cause knock by 3.
If you get knock right though, constantly then reload the table you just saved, burn and leave it at that. get the value of the top 3 locations at 4000rpm, and carry them to the right. Your WOT is now set until you get on a dyno.

You can increase advancement for locations below 90kpa by 2's or 3's and you should be running 30-40 degrees by 50kpa above 2500rpm. continue the pattern of the WOT locations across.
From 50kpa, carry each rows 50kpa value down. so all locations below 50kpa will have the same value as the location above it. extending to the bottom of the table.

As you get more experience you will start molding the table more. but this will give you good power and cruise areas fairly quickly.

Once this and fuel is done you can worry about fixing the modifiers.
The one you will probably notice the most is acceleration enrichment. I always have it disabled when tuning unless the hesitation is too bad to ignore.
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Offline Pure_Sincerity

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #87 on: Mar 3, 2013, 02:11PM »
Base tune is all loaded into the controller and everything is sweet, but when i go to start the car, its kicking over, my FPR is reading 30psi (2bar) but doesnt start. After letting go of the key, this message shows up.



And this is how my stuff is set out atm.


and DIY states this:
tudio settings (Sequential coil on plug and / or sequential fuel)
•Settings under Basic Setup -> Tach Input / Ignition Settings:◦Spark mode: Toothed Wheel
◦Ignition input capture: Falling Edge
◦Spark output will depend on what output setup you're using. BIP373s and QuadSparks both use Going High / Inverted. Getting this setting wrong can damage the ignition module and/or coils. If the ignition module or coils get hot with the key on and the engine off, turn the key off immediately and select the opposite output setting.

•Settings under Basic Setup -> Tach Input / Ignition Settings:◦Trigger wheel arrangement: Dual wheel with missing tooth
◦Trigger wheel teeth: 12
◦Missing Teeth: 1
◦Tooth #1 angle: 345 (This varies slightly between individual engines. Check with a timing light and adjust as needed.)
◦Wheel speed: Crank wheel
◦Second trigger active on: Rising edge

how do you power cycle the Megasquirt ?

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Offline SSS

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #88 on: Mar 3, 2013, 02:18PM »
Power cycle is just switching it off then back on.

You don't have coil on plug for starters, it should be single coil.

What trigger wheel did you end up using in the distributor again?

Offline Pure_Sincerity

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #89 on: Mar 3, 2013, 02:23PM »
Power cycle is just switching it off then back on.

You don't have coil on plug for starters, it should be single coil.

What trigger wheel did you end up using in the distributor again?

http://www.diyautotune.com/tech_articles/using_diyautotune_nissan_trigger_discs.htm

using that same trigger dic, ill change this over and try again.
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