Author Topic: Distributor cap and rotor button  (Read 22380 times)

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Offline JIMB0

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Re: Distributor cap and rotor button
« Reply #30 on: Jan 24, 2006, 03:53PM »
There is a seal on the shaft that could let oil in.

Also $10-$15 for an O-ring is just a bit much. You could buy a kit to make your own for less than that.

Offline mycal

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Re: Distributor cap and rotor button
« Reply #31 on: Jan 25, 2006, 03:00PM »
10 to 15 bucks is ridiculous, i went to a bearing shop in Bayswater and they gave it to me for free

Offline RichTRX

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Re: Distributor cap and rotor button
« Reply #32 on: Feb 14, 2006, 03:34PM »
Is there any other seals within the distributor besides the O ring around the Base of the distributor that is visible when the distributor is removed and the other that goes directly under the cap?
My old man thinks there should be one somewhere inside the distributor that is allowing the oil to get in.


Nope, only that one. Since I replaced mine it has not leaked a smidge of oil.

If you're planning to make one or buy one that was intended for another application, make sure it is oil resistant rubber. If it isn't, the oil will expand and perish the rubber until the seal doesn't work anymore. It can do this over the period of a week in some cases. You've been warned.
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Offline Scradley

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Re: Distributor cap and rotor button
« Reply #33 on: Dec 9, 2006, 10:18PM »
hehe, my dizzy, well it's on its 5th one now. original shat itself so got one from wreckers, wrong more, things wear out and it broke, even racq had to tell me that,lol. Got a reconditioned one through repco from some mob down in melbourne for about 275 bucks. they offer a 50 dollar return thingie but then the screw that holds the rotor button on fell off and broke all the hall sensors etc etc so i put one on from old parts but it looked dodgy and was about to break which is why i wanted the newer one, they replaced it easy enough free of charge, i added some loctite to the screw this time and haven't had any problems with it since, it still back fires occassionally but i think thats the oxygen sensor, next on list,
Oh and that was for a 2l 90 model corsair. rotor button from repco. 20 bucks, i thought that was cheap, expecting to get stung like the little things under the coils for 111 bucks each from repco, but definetly needed, they're pocket size, so numerous trips to wreckers will get you these for free. lol. I mean, don't do that.
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Offline peeto

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Re: Distributor cap and rotor button
« Reply #34 on: Jun 25, 2007, 02:42AM »
If it helps at all, I got a new CA20E rotor button from Nissan Bentleigh (Moorabbin) no worries late last year. From memory it wasn't cheap but reasonable enough for me to pay. I remember I inquired about the price for a radio antennae, I can't remember the quoted price but I do remember almost having a heart attack and telling them I wouldn't buy one at that price in a million years. Maybe Nissan dealers price different parts differently from one another.

Offline Jono

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Re: Distributor cap and rotor button
« Reply #35 on: Aug 14, 2007, 11:59PM »
Sorry about the late reply, but if you see this peeto, hit up anywhere that stocks Aerpro products for an aerial for your car. They will be able to order one in for about $30-40 or so. Nissan charges about $130 I think.

I paid about $35 or so trade price for a CA20E rotor button from Repco a few months ago. Bosch is still making dizzy parts for the U12 CA20.
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Offline bigbazza6969

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Re: Distributor cap and rotor button
« Reply #36 on: Sep 8, 2007, 11:56PM »
haha
I got a rotor button brand new for $35 from my boys at auto pro
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Offline hrmmmm

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Re: Distributor cap and rotor button
« Reply #37 on: Feb 21, 2008, 07:25PM »
I know this thread is getting old but:

I bought a dizzy cap for a ka24e last week from an auto pro store ( I won't say which one so as not to insult/offend anyone) and i was charged $50 trade for the cap with no oil seal thing. Is this reasonable.

Also on a side note this store this store tried to tell me that although corsair's and pintara's look exactly the same the are different underneath and that pintara engine bits and pieces don't fit on a corsair even though the engine is same, i tried to tell him that pinny's and corsair's look different but engine parts are mostly the same. He didn't beleive me so i told him I had pinny injectors, distributor and cap,02 sensor, lifter's, water pump, moulded fluid lines, engine mounts and driveshafts in or on my corsair for the last year with no problems.

Offline JelloBello

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Re: Distributor cap and rotor button
« Reply #38 on: Feb 21, 2008, 07:49PM »
haha... the engines are identical :)
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Offline Ammerty

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Re: Distributor cap and rotor button
« Reply #39 on: Feb 22, 2008, 12:59AM »
thats funny as - wat a retard lol
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Offline aidee

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Re: Distributor cap and rotor button
« Reply #40 on: Jul 22, 2008, 02:07AM »
went to walkers at ippy and got a rotor $15 and cap $30(hall effects) and did my rubber hoses(old age had settled in,loose as,) and fixed em up cause some dik shit had the black and brown solenoids/wiring up the  wrong way ,shit and what a difference it has made.look up the pdf in the wiki articles ES87 to make sure your E.C.C.S. is set properly it makes a big difference .Hail  the the mighty pintara :Dthe seal around my dissy is f#$ked no leaks.
« Last Edit: Jul 22, 2008, 03:08AM by datsunmad »
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Offline Yaaar

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Re: Distributor cap and rotor button
« Reply #41 on: Nov 11, 2008, 08:54PM »
  Just an FYI. I'd advise using genuine Nissan cap and rotor. Replaced mine with aftermarket (Champion) and developed a serious miss. ECU gave an 11 code (Crank position sensor). Put the old cap and rotor on and solved the problem. ( AFTER a week of hair pulling, AAC cleaning, throttle body cleaning and MAF cleaning).

Offline squizz taylor

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Re: Distributor cap and rotor button
« Reply #42 on: Jan 22, 2016, 08:27AM »
Is there any other seals within the distributor besides the O ring around the Base of the distributor that is visible when the distributor is removed and the other that goes directly under the cap?
My old man thinks there should be one somewhere inside the distributor that is allowing the oil to get in.

Yes he is correct, there is an internal shaft seal. You need to completely strip the distributor to get access to it. Not an easy job unless you have a hydraulic press.