Author Topic: antrx.com performance camshaft discussion thread  (Read 14876 times)

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Offline Pinsair

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Re:antrx.com performance camshaft discussion thread
« Reply #30 on: Jun 26, 2003, 07:56PM »
yer thats what i was thinking, i might be losing my licence in a month so i'd probably look into sending it over then.

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Re:antrx.com performance camshaft discussion thread
« Reply #31 on: Jul 30, 2003, 07:57PM »
noss is it alright if i send u my cam and 140 bucks (120 for grind, 20 for postage back to perth) in about a week or 2?

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Re:antrx.com performance camshaft discussion thread
« Reply #32 on: Jul 30, 2003, 11:56PM »
can u tell us exactly wats involved in installing the cam yourself ... the steps so maybe  we could try ourselves ?

Offline noss

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Re:antrx.com performance camshaft discussion thread
« Reply #33 on: Jul 31, 2003, 02:09PM »
noss is it alright if i send u my cam and 140 bucks (120 for grind, 20 for postage back to perth) in about a week or 2?

sure thing mate  ;D

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Re:antrx.com performance camshaft discussion thread
« Reply #34 on: Aug 1, 2003, 03:25PM »
u shur we dont need a computer to run stage 3 ?

Offline noss

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Re:antrx.com performance camshaft discussion thread
« Reply #35 on: Aug 1, 2003, 05:06PM »
the 288 degree one you need to do a shitload of work to run it.. larger injectors, forged pistons, aftermarket ecu, new race prepped lifters, new race con rods.. and all this is only available from nismo (except the injectors & ecu which you can get anywhere). i can get it all, but its not cheap by any means.

however the 270 degree cam can be used on a stock ecu.. mitza is running it now on his mostly stock trx.

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Offline Cle

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Re:antrx.com performance camshaft discussion thread
« Reply #36 on: Aug 1, 2003, 10:05PM »
Well if it dose work with a stock ca20e engine (R31 version) ill seriously think about it, i have to look into how much effort is involved first & if i have the tools, but once that faq is up i should have a good idea. My cars at 288,000km so you'll probably have to regrind my cam and send her back. At the moment she's off the road so it won't matter if it takes a while.

All up that would be $232... 120 for the grind, 100 deposit, 12 postage (is that the same to ipswich ?) and do you have a preferred payment method ?

If i do decide to go ahead it'll be a while before i can send the cam down, Im still doing general maintenance on the car witch is keeping me poor !! So about a month id say... this week ive got the breaks radiator n plugs, next week's leads.. after that i could save for the cam.

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Re:antrx.com performance camshaft discussion thread
« Reply #37 on: Aug 2, 2003, 01:46AM »
anyone lookd into shaving the head n rasing the compression ?

Offline SSS

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Re:antrx.com performance camshaft discussion thread
« Reply #38 on: Aug 2, 2003, 02:51PM »
Yes, i did shave the head but you can only safely take 0.2mm off. Which isn't much more compression.

Offline noss

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Re:antrx.com performance camshaft discussion thread
« Reply #39 on: Aug 2, 2003, 02:54PM »


All up that would be $232... 120 for the grind, 100 deposit, 12 postage (is that the same to ipswich ?) and do you have a preferred payment method ?


if your sending your own cam down, deposit isnt required. also, you'd probably have to do that anyway, as i think there are only 2 or 3 r31 pintaras here at the moment.

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Re:antrx.com performance camshaft discussion thread
« Reply #40 on: Aug 25, 2003, 10:57AM »
Any chance of getting the 270 or 288 degree cam in AUTO at all?

Offline FLOGTARA

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Re:antrx.com performance camshaft discussion thread
« Reply #41 on: Aug 25, 2003, 12:16PM »
I've been ringing around some wreckers to get quotes on second hand ca20e cams and ive been quoted from place (X) $235 and place (Y) $200

I think ill do some more shopping around for a cam, i don't want to spend double the cost of a cam just for convenience.  Hopefully there will be a bigger degree cam realy for the ca20e by time i have mine  ;D.  Fingers crossed.
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Re:antrx.com performance camshaft discussion thread
« Reply #42 on: Aug 25, 2003, 12:36PM »
i've sent you an email regarding this just now.

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Re:antrx.com performance camshaft discussion thread
« Reply #43 on: Aug 25, 2003, 04:37PM »
go wreckers bro usually whole head is 175 bux !!

Offline SSS

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Re:antrx.com performance camshaft discussion thread
« Reply #44 on: Aug 25, 2003, 05:12PM »
$175? Meh....what a rip off....i paid $150  ;D

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Re:antrx.com performance camshaft discussion thread
« Reply #45 on: Aug 25, 2003, 07:34PM »
yeah, they were quotes from wreckers so stuffs me.  Ill keep shopping till the tax return comes in.  
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Offline evenflow_trx

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Re:antrx.com performance camshaft discussion thread
« Reply #46 on: Sep 1, 2003, 11:02AM »
Just a quick note, if you are getting a 270 deg cam or higher in an AUTO, you will need a hi-stall converter which is about $800-$1500.

The only problem with hi stall converters is that they generate more heat than stock converters because they work by 'slipping' of turbines and impellers which are componants in the histall which might reduce the life of the auto. A good idea is to fit an external auto trans cooler which is easily done at about $85 bucks, keeping the auto as cool as possible will increase its life.

And then, once that's done, get sssgtr to convert the lifters :)

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Re:antrx.com performance camshaft discussion thread
« Reply #47 on: Sep 9, 2003, 10:45AM »
bah, disregard my previous msg - u DO NOT need a hi-stall converter to run a 270deg cam with an auto.

Offline ZiiN

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Re:antrx.com performance camshaft discussion thread
« Reply #48 on: Sep 9, 2003, 05:12PM »
Noss when u say the idle is lumpy... how lumpy? like going higher to lower then higher revs again? or?
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Re:antrx.com performance camshaft discussion thread
« Reply #49 on: Oct 18, 2003, 03:24AM »
hey noss are you still offering this service??

i am 99% sure that i will wont to get a reground cam within the next month, if its possible.  how much will postage be to hobart? and are you planning on putting some info up about installing the cam? i wont to install it myself and am fairly confident in doing so, but, some simple instructions and pics if possble would be great.

thanks ;)
jimmy

P.S> when i get the cam id also like to buy an antrx sticker

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Re:antrx.com performance camshaft discussion thread
« Reply #50 on: Oct 18, 2003, 08:51AM »
ziin: its hard to explain a lumpy idle to someone that doesnt know what it is by typing.. maybe te only way i can describe it is kind of like a wrx. if a car has a lumpy idle (normally worked v8's) then you will know, just listen to the engine/exhaust noise.. it doesnt sound smooth like a stock car. but yeah my trx sounds wrx-ish at low->mid revs

jimmy: according to australia post, postage to hobart will be $7.40 normal post and $9.60 express post.

i will have install instuctions/pictures on the forums as soon as i pick up my new head & get my hands on a camera.

if you get the 270 degree cam you must either get the tops of your cam caps machined or buy solid lifters


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Re:antrx.com performance camshaft discussion thread
« Reply #51 on: Oct 18, 2003, 01:31PM »
Solid lifters being the best alternative.  ;D

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Re:antrx.com performance camshaft discussion thread
« Reply #52 on: Oct 19, 2003, 05:52PM »
ok, how much do u think it would be to get them machined??

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Re:antrx.com performance camshaft discussion thread
« Reply #53 on: Oct 19, 2003, 06:30PM »
sssgtr will have to answer that one.. i havent had mine machined

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Re:antrx.com performance camshaft discussion thread
« Reply #54 on: Oct 19, 2003, 09:01PM »
ok, so why do u need to have them machined if your running your cam without them being machined?? can you explain what machining the caps achieves please

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Re:antrx.com performance camshaft discussion thread
« Reply #55 on: Oct 19, 2003, 09:10PM »
To be brutally honest, if you don't understand why they need machining and what it will achieve, you shouldn't be looking at doing such a mod yet without doing some research on cams and valvetrains.

Offline Cle

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Re:antrx.com performance camshaft discussion thread
« Reply #56 on: Oct 19, 2003, 09:50PM »
Quote
Whether you’re building a street performance engine, a killer drag motor or a Winston Cup powerplant, the valvetrain requires special attention if you’re going to maximize reliability and performance. Most stock valvetrain components are only good up to about 5,500 rpm. Beyond that point, upgrades are necessary to handle the higher loads.

Even though the camshaft turns at only half the speed of the crankshaft (one revolution of the cam for every two revolutions of the crank), engine speed reaches a point where the springs can’t pull the valves shut quickly enough to keep the lifters on the cam. Instead of following the lobes back down to the base circle, the lifters begin to kick off their lobes. And the steeper the profile of the lobes, the worse the problem becomes as rpms go up.

When the springs can’t keep up with the cam, the lifters bang back down on the cam and bounce slightly, causing the valves to also bounce as they seat. In addition to increasing wear and the likelihood of fatigue failure, valve bounce also screws up airflow into and out of the combustion chamber and hurts high rpm performance.

If engine speed continues to increase, the point is soon reached where the springs can’t close the valves fast enough before they start to open again. The valves begin to "float" (stay open), which allows compression to blow right past the open valves. The engine begins to misfire, and if the driver doesn’t back off on the throttle he runs the risk of a valve kissing a piston goodbye.

Quote
If you’re installing a new cam, replace the lifters too. Never use worn lifters on a new cam unless you want to wipe out the lobes in short order. Use plenty of assembly lube on the cam lobes to protect them when the engine is first started, and run the engine at 2,000 rpm or more for 20 minutes after the initial start up to break-in the new components. Don’t let the engine idle during this critical break-in period.

Jim Hill of Crane Cams, Daytona Beach, FL, says cam selection is what determines an engine’s power curve and personality. A typical street engine might never see more than 6,200 rpm while a racing engine will usually turn up to 8,000 to 9,000 rpm or higher. So you need to pick a cam and lifter combination that matches the application.

For street engines, hydraulic lifters are usually better than solid or mechanical lifters for several reasons. Hydraulic lifters automatically maintain zero valve lash so they don’t have to be readjusted periodically. They’re also quieter. But for all-out performance, many racers prefer solid or mechanical flat tappet lifters or roller lifters because they can handle higher rpms without pumping up.


New lifters & a set of slightly tuffer springs do a world of good & so dose high lift rockers + cam  ;) pitty im not that adept or id put it all on my car :p but a cam's enough for me.... might get some new lifters though.. old ones truly are on the way out lol

Hope that helps you :)
« Last Edit: Oct 19, 2003, 10:15PM by Cle »

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Re:antrx.com performance camshaft discussion thread
« Reply #57 on: Oct 20, 2003, 11:01AM »
you have a ca20 though don't you? you'll only need the lifter screws, which are about $7 ea from nissan brand new.

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Re:antrx.com performance camshaft discussion thread
« Reply #58 on: Oct 20, 2003, 12:12PM »
ok, so why do u need to have them machined if your running your cam without them being machined?? can you explain what machining the caps achieves please

i'm not driving my car much. i went on a cruise & other than that i might drive 10km a week because i'm waiting for the parts to come in for the solid lifters.. (i had to source a new head as well) if you heard my car's engine, you would understand why i'm trying not to drive it and also why you would need to machine the caps/get solid lifters.

machining the caps would allow for you to pretty much not bothr about anything that goes on in the engine (i.e. no adjustment) so it would be like install & forget.

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Re:antrx.com performance camshaft discussion thread
« Reply #59 on: Oct 20, 2003, 12:28PM »
ok thanks, i might try and get a quote to have them machined