Author Topic: Ammerty's CA18DET to KA24DET KILLA!! (Read 19211 times)

eurisko · « **Reply #30 on:** Jan 31, 2007, 10:58AM »

Add 400 or so if you want assembly done as well. Its not as expensive as you may think to get stuff done. I was planning on assembliing it myself, but then thought, they have plastigauge, micrometres, calipers and dial gauges, and have the balancing equipment as well, why not. Couple hundred bucks for piece of mind.

And the SR is the most overrated engine in the world. People like it cause its newer. Thats it. If you look at what u need done to one to get it upto scratch, the same money put into a CA will produce better results. Cam on bucket people!

And as rathies said.... re-enforce that box. Take it to a specialist to check the synchros, and the bellhousing. Im not 100% sure of what fails, but bellhousings crack, and syncos get fried. Being upto 20 years old... id get all drivetrain components checked for damage as well (diffs, cv's and axles)

Quote from: Budgie on Jan 31, 2007, 10:47AM

If anyone EVER finds one of these, I will sell my left nut for it They are fucking impossible to find.

Quote from: Budgie on Jan 31, 2007, 10:47AM

If anyone EVER finds one of these, I will sell my left nut for it They are fucking impossible to find.

Ill make it a mission in life, just to get that left nut

Budgie · « **Reply #31 on:** Jan 31, 2007, 11:09AM »

Quote from: eurisko on Jan 31, 2007, 10:58AM

And the SR is the most overrated engine in the world. People like it cause its newer. Thats it. If you look at what u need done to one to get it upto scratch, the same money put into a CA will produce better results. Cam on bucket people!

Don't get me started!

Quote from: eurisko on Jan 31, 2007, 10:58AM

And as rathies said.... re-enforce that box. Take it to a specialist to check the synchros, and the bellhousing. Im not 100% sure of what fails, but bellhousings crack, and syncos get fried. Being upto 20 years old... id get all drivetrain components checked for damage as well (diffs, cv's and axles)

The major thing, is that the CA18DE 5spd box in this car has done over 250,000km hasn't it? The box in mine had done 99,000km when I bolted it to my CA18DET. Solid as a rock. But thats with 150,000 less km's. The gearbox would be the weakest link in a KA24DET for sure.

dave-trx · « **Reply #32 on:** Jan 31, 2007, 12:40PM »

I am with budgie and Eurisko on this one. Stick to the CA18DET. Everything has already been engineered by nissan and its works.

If your still after a challenge, through in a RB and all wheel drive. At least you know the RB gearboxes are bullet proof.

Ammerty · « **Reply #33 on:** Jan 31, 2007, 01:39PM »

Quote from: MAG86 on Jan 31, 2007, 07:45AM

with the amount of time, money, and arsing around, you could put in a ca18det in the atessa, and buy a whole other U12 (Ti of course...) and build a turbo Ka24DE for that, then you would have your fun daily RNU12... with boost! aswell a the animal KA24det for play time...

the entire reason of doing up the ATESSA bluey is to have better traction to go with such a powerful engine, therefore making my take-offs better. i know about the drivetrain from the AWD.

Quote from: Budgie on Jan 31, 2007, 11:09AM

The major thing, is that the CA18DE 5spd box in this car has done over 250,000km hasn't it? The box in mine had done 99,000km when I bolted it to my CA18DET. Solid as a rock. But thats with 150,000 less km's. The gearbox would be the weakest link in a KA24DET for sure.

true, i will have to get the box reinforced then, if i use it wif the KA24DET, i might still have to wnd up using the GRi-R one if it turns out cheaper and/or gives me more power.

i found a guy who has a manual hnu13 attessa box, i know it runs an sr20 but i know i couple people who have done KA24 - SR20 conversions, using what was apparently a vary cheap adaptor plate and that was it, im just hopeing a u13box will bolt in to the u12 and that the adaptor plate idea should work both ways right? i'mma go ask my mechanic mate of mine, he does conversions all the time...

Budgie · « **Reply #34 on:** Jan 31, 2007, 01:50PM »

Again, the problem does not lie with the gearbox itself... but with the AWD transfer case that sits behind the block on the AWD's.

Ammerty · « **Reply #35 on:** Jan 31, 2007, 01:53PM »

you mean the problem with the starter motor location again, or the drive train not being in the right spot, or needing to be shorter/longer??

Budgie · « **Reply #36 on:** Jan 31, 2007, 02:08PM »

All three.

Ammerty · « **Reply #37 on:** Jan 31, 2007, 02:33PM »

lol - GREAT!!

i talked to my mechanic friend n he said its possible but i'm gonna need to talk to some other guy (he gave me his number) who can modify the bell housing fo me. he also said i'm probably lookin at about 2000 for it too.
and then the conversion he could do for me for 5000, and to put all the little bells n whistles on it (eg. work the head, balance cranc, rebuild, forgies, turbo kit, ect.) will be about 10'000, but that doesnt phase me because i can get and do all those xtras myself and it'll end up being alot cheaper.

Ammerty · « **Reply #38 on:** Jan 31, 2007, 04:54PM »

well i have decided i will just go for my backup, i know someone selling a manual sr20det attessa out of a u12 bluebird so imma jus grab that n chuck it in, the sr20 is a complete front cut so its gonna be fun convertin it.i think at least this way its gonna be alot cheaper than the KA24DE.

Budgie · « **Reply #39 on:** Jan 31, 2007, 05:56PM »

I want the clock from it

!!!

Shotgun! PM me a price when you get the cut.

Ammerty · « **Reply #40 on:** Jan 31, 2007, 06:03PM »

do you mean the time clock? yeah you can have it when i get it. i'll pm you.

KeGs · « **Reply #41 on:** Jan 31, 2007, 06:49PM »

Quote from: Ammerty on Jan 31, 2007, 04:54PM

well i have decided i will just go for my backup, i know someone selling a manual sr20det attessa out of a u12 bluebird so imma jus grab that n chuck it in, the sr20 is a complete front cut so its gonna be fun convertin it.i think at least this way its gonna be alot cheaper than the KA24DE.

now that sounds more like it

timmy · « **Reply #42 on:** Feb 5, 2007, 10:06PM »

why waste a perfectly good car.. stick to ca18det for your CA bluebird.

OR

buy a KA bluebird and turbo that.

rathies · « **Reply #43 on:** Feb 5, 2007, 10:19PM »

he's determined to annihalate me. we seriously need that thread. He'll deny this too.

Budgie · « **Reply #44 on:** Feb 5, 2007, 10:33PM »

Quote from: Ammerty on Jan 31, 2007, 06:03PM

do you mean the time clock? yeah you can have it when i get it. i'll pm you.

Sweet, I will hold you too that

Ammerty · « **Reply #45 on:** Feb 5, 2007, 11:47PM »

Quote from: rathies on Feb 5, 2007, 10:19PM

He'll deny this too.

geez now i cant say anything,
no its not to beat you, you've known that since i first saw a ka24de in action i've wanted one... WAY before you even thought about turbo'in your trx.

Quote from: timmy on Feb 5, 2007, 10:06PM

why waste a perfectly good car.. stick to ca18det for your CA bluebird.

OR

buy a KA bluebird and turbo that.

i've always liked the RNU12 bluebird attessa's and also (as said before) same goes for a KA24DE, however you cant get a KA24 bluey of any sort in all wheel drive, so i thought why dont i just make it that way. Having said that - i know its possible but it costs big bucks - so i figured why not spend a hell of alot less n just SR20DET it.

SSS · « **Reply #46 on:** Feb 6, 2007, 09:40AM »

SR FTL. You do realize that the CA is far better engineered motor than the SR....

Bore it out to 1.9, do a decent valvetrain and it'll rev to 9k each and every day without fail.

eurisko · « **Reply #47 on:** Feb 6, 2007, 09:49AM »

Damn straight. Ca18det valvetrain components are cheap as chips. Cams, solid lifters, valvesprings and bigger valves will set you back just under 1.5k. Just with that u can rev the hell out of it without worrying about silly rocker arms flying everywhere... or the weak aluminium block overheating and warping

CA20DET ftw. Just wait till i get it done.... then people will think twice.

chr1S · « **Reply #48 on:** Feb 6, 2007, 12:03PM »

my n/a ka wins.

Budgie · « **Reply #49 on:** Feb 6, 2007, 02:28PM »

Quote from: chr1S on Feb 6, 2007, 12:03PM

my n/a ka wins.

lol...

Ammerty · « **Reply #50 on:** Feb 6, 2007, 05:13PM »

ok geez...

i'll go both ways n make a ca20Det, i know someone esle is doin it, i just cant remember who. i think that way i can use the ca18 extra bits round the engine and the ca18de head with the ca20 block, i'lll have to use an aftermarket ecu though - wich doesnt phase me at all. im just tryin to squeeze as much displacement n power as i can with my budget - the budget being $5000

Ammerty · « **Reply #51 on:** Feb 6, 2007, 05:43PM »

maybe i should just buy this...

http://www.antrx.com/smf/index.php?topic=12695.0

EDIT: LOL HELL NO, its auto, i HATE auto

eurisko · « **Reply #52 on:** Feb 6, 2007, 06:38PM »

Quote from: Ammerty on Feb 6, 2007, 05:13PM

ok geez...

i'll go both ways n make a ca20Det, i know someone esle is doin it, i just cant remember who. i think that way i can use the ca18 extra bits round the engine and the ca18de head with the ca20 block, i'lll have to use an aftermarket ecu though - wich doesnt phase me at all. im just tryin to squeeze as much displacement n power as i can with my budget - the budget being $5000

WOOOT WOOOT!

Thatll be me mate... check my project thread. 5K should cover it all.... especially if you already have the ca18det engine and attesa body

http://www.antrx.com/smf/index.php?topic=11513.0

No need for an aftermarket ecu... ca18det ecu should be fine for stock to 12psi boost. After that, apexi PowerFC ftw. Cheap too.. round 400 bucks for a second hand unit. With a properly built ca20det motor... figures of 400hp arent out of the question, its been done before

Ammerty · « **Reply #53 on:** Feb 6, 2007, 09:41PM »

lol at least i know if i need help i can ask you - cheers mate

Ammerty · « **Reply #54 on:** Feb 7, 2007, 06:28PM »

ok so i just read something that made me think - i know it would cost a shitload, so I'M NOT GONNA DO IT but imagine an RB26DETT, with the AWD gearbox, and before you ask, it would have to be north-south as the RB gearbox is that way, it'd be crazy, difficult and fun!!

rathies · « **Reply #55 on:** Feb 7, 2007, 06:31PM »

put it north south, modify the firewall and take out the front seats. the back seats are where you'd end up when that thing pulls away.

Ammerty · « **Reply #56 on:** Feb 7, 2007, 06:33PM »

yeah - just outta curiosity imm find out prices, lol, imma say it again - im not actually gonna do it but it would be so nice.

JelloBello · « **Reply #57 on:** Feb 7, 2007, 06:41PM »

...just buy a r32 gtr?

rathies · « **Reply #58 on:** Feb 7, 2007, 06:42PM »

mmm r32 very sexy

Ammerty · « **Reply #59 on:** Feb 7, 2007, 06:48PM »

lol that'd save alot of hassle