ohhhhhhhh, my bad...
can I still get the cam done through noss or is it better to go straight to wade cams? can I tell them flat out "do it 270/270" or will they want details on the exact profile, etc?
yes I'm not going for all out, just a nice mild head tune without spending massive amounts and hopefully I'll gain at least 15kw at the fly
Adam, you ported your head? How much could you take off and what if any was the improvement/feel? I'm hoping to pick up a fair bit of flow on the exhaust side since that is an obvious weak spot of the sohc head...
I could try a few runs in Engine Analyzer Pro and see what timing will get you the best results for valve opening/closing for that amount of duration.
Yes, i did, many years ago. From what i remember of my first impressions was the improvement in top end breathing; it would not struggle past 5000rpm to the 6500rpm rev cut, but would pull nice and hard to 6500rpm. I daresay this was really only because of the cam, which still is a 262/264. I probably picked up some more mid range torque, but i lacked the comparitive dyno sheets back then between stock and modified.
Looking back, it really seemed like i made a dog's breakfast of everything i did, that was the first and only head i have ever ported still to date. I match ported to the intake gasket into the port about 10mm, reshaped the divder and the valve guide bosses, put a 60 grit finish on the intake ports after cleaning up any casting defects, polished the combustion chamber after i had finished cleaning up the additional material i had welded in the chamber to up the CR (would not do it again!!!!!! pistons are the way to go for higher CR!), reshaped the exhaust valve guide boss, polished the exhaust ports.
If i were you rich, i'd go 1mm oversize on the intake valves, and as big as you can go oversize on the exhaust valves.
I would not worry about grinding much out of the intake ports, it's difficult to detemine what material removal works without a flow bench and a practice head.