Author Topic: Urgent help.  (Read 46580 times)

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Offline Pure_Sincerity

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #150 on: Mar 23, 2013, 07:23PM »
no, ign1a will trigger form 5V logic.
no, ign1a will trigger form 5V logic.

Awesome, can you linky me mate ?
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Offline Pure_Sincerity

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #151 on: Mar 23, 2013, 07:33PM »
Found it mate, it's a DIY product. Sounds good. If the car does not start tomorrow than I'll I this route, will just need 1 ignition lead to suit.
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Offline crazy2287

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #152 on: Mar 23, 2013, 08:47PM »
contact me on skype and i will send you my data sheet to work out dwell limitations. Will come in handy down the track.

You need to be SURE you configuration is correct for the ign1a or it will exceed its duty cycle and bake the epoxy out of the case. i've blown up 2. one because my inversion setting was wrong and the other because i was re flashing the ECU while the ign was still connected.

Just to clarify, I am not familiar with your current board configuration. But the IGN1A will run directly from the megasquirt without the need for a "power transistor"  it will trigger from a negative going (i think) 5v logic signal.
I have all the specification data for the IGN1a so when you skype me ask me for that too and i'll flick the PDF your way.

and this is the one here:
http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/ign1a-race-coil-p-394.html

if you have not got your jimstim yet buy it here and combine the postage:
http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/jimstim-v15-megasquirt-stimulator-wheel-simulator-unassembl-p-174.html

i recommend you get the kit and build it yourself! This will give you the hands on experience you need to tackle more advanced board mods on the megasquirt in the future.
a good soldering iron will be an idea here and a handy helper. This one looks good, takes industry standard tips. temp controlled. rapid heat up. once you use one of these types you wont go back to your 20w handheld again. 900m-t series tips are all over ebay for a couple of bus each too, I'd recommend having a 1mm or less tip for intricate stuff. a 1.7ish for general stuff and a 3mm shovel for heavier work.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-60W-220V-Weld-Soldering-Station-Iron-Stand-Digital-Temp-Control-Sponge-INCL-/150963295053?pt=AU_B_I_Electrical_Test_Equipment&hash=item23261d134d&_uhb=1#ht_4368wt_1397

and once you get one of these you will not understand how you did it before. Use it for holding things in place as you solder, holding the pcb. prtyable. iake it otu and use it in the eng bay of the car for joining wires, or working the db37 plugs. i highly recommend.

and an electronics tool kit
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Electronic-Cutting-Pliers-1-3mm-16AWG-copper-wire-HS-109-1091-/300860739328?pt=AU_Hand_Tools&hash=item460cb28f00&_uhb=1#ht_500wt_1180
That's an example, things i commonly use are the snips. High quality pair of snits is a must. Round nose pliers and square nose pliers. can usually pick up a kit that has them all from j-car or dick smith electronics.

Also, some 99% isopropanol for cleaning once your done. and Liquid flux for repairing, dry joints and stubborn joints. Iso id kinda of hard to get. and liquid flux is really hard to get, specially when you got nub-tards trying to tell you "you don't need it, its in the solder" Yes, i know it's in the solder. I know what i'm talking about. Regardless of your "university" training. This is what i do, board rework and repair will need liquid flux to have any good results. its the difference between a professional job, and a shit one.
Now i'm rambling.

I'll forgive you if you cant find any though, i ended up liberating a few hundred mill from work as no retail outlet had any.

lastly get some board lacquer
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Circuit-Board-Lacquer-Spray-Can-/390443584135?pt=AU_Toys_Hobbies_Model_Kits&hash=item5ae8404a87&_uhb=1#ht_3585wt_1202

after everything is built, tested and has been working in the car for a couple of weeks. Pull it out. remove anything you need too (ie cpu) and give it a GOOD clean with iso and 2 coats of this.
This will environmentally seal the board and dramatically reduce the risk of moisture, dust and vibration from damaging the board.











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Offline Pure_Sincerity

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #153 on: Mar 24, 2013, 02:06PM »
Best stimulator ?

V2.2 assembled - $69
V1.5 unassenbled with wheel simulator - $59

So far I'd rather the $69 assembled unit ;)

Will also order the coil, connector and maybe a replacement BIP373 as a backup.
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Offline crazy2287

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #154 on: Mar 24, 2013, 03:02PM »
no. You need the wheel simulator. The v2.2 is not a JimStim. Newest JimStim is 1.5
Otherwise you wont be able to emulate your ignition pulse to properly test the megasquirt hardware.

If your going to get an Igniter you might as well get the IGN1. the dumb coil without built in Igniter. same power output but if you fry the Igniter you don't have to replace the whole thing. = cheaper.
« Last Edit: Mar 24, 2013, 03:10PM by crazy2287 »
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Offline Pure_Sincerity

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #155 on: Mar 24, 2013, 05:09PM »
Just place the order on DIY with the IGN1A and plug included.

Will work perfectly and should solve my problems a there are 3 outputs from the stock ecu for ignition and the MS will not drive the factory power transistor which means no spark.

This coil hooks directly to the MS2 spark input, ecu ground, cyl head ground, 12v power source (can tee into injectors so they power at the same time) and power ground (negative side battery)

So this coil will bypass everything else and get driven straight from the MS2

Also crazy, I forgot to tell you a few times, the reason I'm piggy backing the MS2 is because I still want the factory ecu to drive all my guages, fans etc.

This should fix my problems. As it drives directly from the MS2 factory D14 5v logic signal which my MS outputs.
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Offline Pure_Sincerity

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #156 on: Apr 8, 2013, 09:13PM »
Still waiting on the coil. It said 6-10 working days, tomorrow is day 9 because of the public holidays we had.

Also, I feel like a dumb fuck now, I was laying down thinking about shit, than it hit me, map sensors require some sort of vacuum to calculate the air pressure, but how does the megasquirt on board sensor work ? Than I realised the tip/knob thing sticking out from the ecu case was the vacuum port or the sensor. Ahh, happy days.
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Offline crazy2287

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #157 on: Apr 8, 2013, 10:37PM »
HHAHHA. For real? I don't even XD
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Offline Pure_Sincerity

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #158 on: Apr 8, 2013, 10:45PM »
I was just so busy sorting everything else out, than I thought about the map sensor and thought hang on...... Hahaha
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Offline Pure_Sincerity

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #159 on: Apr 9, 2013, 12:37PM »
Map sensor before or after the butterflies in the intake ?
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Offline SSS

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #160 on: Apr 9, 2013, 01:14PM »
.
Map sensor before or after the butterflies in the intake ?



Seriously, step away from the engine before you harm it.

Offline Pure_Sincerity

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #161 on: Apr 9, 2013, 01:23PM »
Huh, well the map sensor has to be hooked up, so where do you suppose I hook the breather line up to than ? It was a simple question asking does it go before or after the butterflies on the intake manifold ? Because I clearly don't have a plenum.

Google results just state "hook the MS onboard map sensor up to manifold vacuum, tune and go"
« Last Edit: Apr 9, 2013, 01:29PM by Pure_Sincerity »
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Offline Kranzy

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #162 on: Apr 9, 2013, 01:31PM »
Manifold vacuum i would assume is after the butterflies.
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Offline SR20ME

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #163 on: Apr 10, 2013, 12:16AM »
This sounds like a sh*tload of work. Don't know if a proper aftermarket ECU is any easier. Keep going with it. You'll get there and if you get close but don't finish, just take it to someone that is good with ECU's. I've learnt one thing with cars.........your time is valuable (sometimes more valuable than the money you may save doing something on your own).

Props for attempting this. Anything with car electricals and engine management is a real biac*

Offline Pure_Sincerity

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #164 on: Apr 10, 2013, 12:19AM »
Manifold vacuum i would assume is after the butterflies.

I would assume so too, but SSS last remark has made me skeptical about it. I know I'm getting annoying with all my questions because I'm jumped the gun into something I knew nothing about, but I'm getting there slowly and making progress. I am also thoroughly happy with everyone's help with everything.

I have received the IGN1A race coil with built in igniter and assembled the plug today. I will be hooking this up very soon when I have a day off work, probably Saturday morning. This should sort my issue as it triggers from the 5volt output from the ecu whereas the Nissan igniter has to power from 7.5volts.
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Offline SSS

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #165 on: Apr 10, 2013, 08:55AM »
I would assume so too, but SSS last remark has made me skeptical about it. I know I'm getting annoying with all my questions because I'm jumped the gun into something I knew nothing about, but I'm getting there slowly and making progress. I am also thoroughly happy with everyone's help with everything.

The vacuum source must be taken from between the throttle plates and the head for the ECU to see engine load.
The MAP sensor will see no vacuum  or very little vacuum if you took it from between the filters and the throttle plates, meaning the engine would think it's at full load all the time. (full vacuum with throttles closed = idle conditions; little to no vacuum (ie atmospheric pressure) with the throttles open 100% = full load)

This is a pretty basic fact.

Offline Pure_Sincerity

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #166 on: Apr 10, 2013, 10:07AM »
The vacuum source must be taken from between the throttle plates and the head for the ECU to see engine load.
The MAP sensor will see no vacuum  or very little vacuum if you took it from between the filters and the throttle plates, meaning the engine would think it's at full load all the time. (full vacuum with throttles closed = idle conditions; little to no vacuum (ie atmospheric pressure) with the throttles open 100% = full load)

This is a pretty basic fact.

I never planned to run the breather before the throttle plates, I was going to run it after the plates before the cylinder head. Most GSX throttles come factory with 4 lines teed into 1 after the plates, I was planning to run it from those. Like these pics I had posted in Matt's thread.


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Offline squizz taylor

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #167 on: Apr 10, 2013, 11:01AM »
Yes that is the correct way to do it.

Offline crazy2287

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #168 on: Apr 14, 2013, 01:43AM »
remember to ensure all your settings are correct BEFORE  you hook up the ign coil. last thing you want is to blow it up on first startup.
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Offline Pure_Sincerity

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #169 on: Apr 14, 2013, 07:33AM »
remember to ensure all your settings are correct BEFORE  you hook up the ign coil. last thing you want is to blow it up on first startup.

Will do, also coil details are here
""Looking for a high powered ignition system? These coils are designed to put out 103 mJ per spark, with a longer spark duration (2.9 ms) than what you'd see with a capacitive discharge. They are the same coils used in the Huber Mustang, which makes over 250 hp per cylinder, as well as on our own Miata project car. A 19 amp IGBT ignitor is built in. They can be driven with a 5 volt logic level output - an MS3X will run them directly, and we recommend a 270 to 330 ohm pullup if you're building a MegaSquirt 1 or 2 to drive them, and they can fully charge with as low as 2.5 ms of dwell. Normally, you'd use them for a distributorless ignition as a coil per plug application. They can be fired sequentially or every crank revolution (wasted spark coil per plug). If used as a single coil with a distributor you may need to run a bit less dwell to prevent heat buildup from being an issue.  Maximum recommended duty cycle is 40%.""

So need to run a bit less dwell, would 2 or 2.2 be too low crazy ?
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Offline Pure_Sincerity

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #170 on: Apr 14, 2013, 09:06AM »
"""A - Ignition signal from ECU

B - Logic ground, connect to ECU ground

C - Spark wire ground, connect to cylinder head

D - Power ground, connect to battery negative

E - 12 volt power""""

Alright, so B goes to ecu ground, which I have hooked up to the negative side of the battery, so B would also go to negative side of battery ? Because that is where I have wired it, than D also goes to "Power ground" which is also negative side of battery. Since they are both just grounds, it wouldn't matter a single bit that they are both hooked up to the (-) on the battery ?
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Offline Pure_Sincerity

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #171 on: Apr 14, 2013, 03:41PM »
Coil wired in, map sensor hooked up, ecu relocated, spliced the coil 12v power in the relay with the injectors and megasquirt before the relay so they all power at the same time when ignition is switched on, checked the coil, injectors and ecu, all have 12v power. Should be good to go, just waiting for the other half to get home from work so I can use her laptop and go over the settings again before I attempt a start.

*fingers crossed*
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Offline Pure_Sincerity

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #172 on: Apr 14, 2013, 07:50PM »
Fail.

Crazy, am I supposed to be getting a volt reading through the IGN1A signal pin ? Because I'm not getting anything at all when ignition is on or when I'm cranking. All settings are correct.
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Offline Pure_Sincerity

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #173 on: Apr 15, 2013, 10:26AM »
I'm still getting power through the factory power transistor etc so I'd say the complete car is favoring the factory ecu and thus not sparking from the MS2.

Today ill rip out the factory ecu and rewire it as a complete stand alone like it was meant to be. Will than need to work out fans, tachometer and speedo from there if it starts and fires. I'm unsure if I can run the fans straight from the MS and tachometer I'm sure i just need to wire it into an rpm signal ?
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Offline Pure_Sincerity

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #174 on: Apr 15, 2013, 11:37AM »
I got started, but can't work out how to run all the stock engine relays from the megasquirt ecu ? There is an alternate and you can purchase an external relay board from DIY but it states in many threads that you can get the megasquirt to run all factory relays. But how is it done in a u12 ?
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Offline Kranzy

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #175 on: Apr 15, 2013, 04:36PM »
Why are you now removing the stock ecu?

The two ecu's are not talking to each other in terms of you run this sensor, ill run that etc. The stock ecu is always going to send a signal to the factory transistor. The issue is with the MS2 not firing the new ignition setup. What I would be doing is checking that the ms2 is sending the correct signal to the new setup. The factory transistor can be removed.

You need to now ensure that you have not damaged the ms2 when you originally wired it up and hoped it would work. If the ecu has been damaged that would be why its not firing. Check the ms2 is sending the correct signals it should be.
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Offline Pure_Sincerity

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #176 on: Apr 15, 2013, 05:35PM »
Why are you now removing the stock ecu?

The two ecu's are not talking to each other in terms of you run this sensor, ill run that etc. The stock ecu is always going to send a signal to the factory transistor. The issue is with the MS2 not firing the new ignition setup. What I would be doing is checking that the ms2 is sending the correct signal to the new setup. The factory transistor can be removed.

You need to now ensure that you have not damaged the ms2 when you originally wired it up and hoped it would work. If the ecu has been damaged that would be why its not firing. Check the ms2 is sending the correct signals it should be.

The Ignition driver in the MS board isn't blown, already check it visually and with a multimeter and its fine.

Going back over the wiring, from the MS there is 3 wires for the Dizzy:
White:RPM
Black: VR ground
Grey: +5v ref. (goes to both DIZZY & TPS)

The factory diagram only shows 2 coming from the ecu to the dizzy plug
CAS reference
CAS position.

Now I never had the grey wire (+5v ref) hooked up, because Cramer said the white wire (RPM) would hook in to the CAS reference leaving me blank and not wanting to put the +5v ref into the CAS position.

BUT the megasquirt is currently reading the dizzy because I had recently done a tooth log of the CAS disc and mailed it to Cramer.
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Offline crazy2287

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #177 on: Apr 15, 2013, 08:07PM »
Too much in one go but i'll try to cover it. Don't move so quick :P

you will be able to run at least 2.7ms of dwell up to 6000rpm. You need to monitor the temperature of the coil and ensure it is not getting hot, this is how you tune the dwell. What rpm are you going to set your rev limiter?

Connecting both to the neg of battery will work. but this is how it SHOULD be done.
-The logic ground should connect to the SAME POINT as  all the other sensors. Further, ALL your sensors and the MS should terminate at a single point. THis gives the ECU a ground reference. My signal earth is in my relay box. but other people use a terminal block just outside the MS ECU.
-The spark earth should connect to the CYLINDER head. This is to provide shortest path from spark plug to other side of the coil and increases the maximum attainable spark voltage.
These 2 wires are the sign of a very well set up coil.

FKN throw the stock ECU away IMO. You should have done that ages ago. (note: am not familiar with ECU specifics of the u12's)

Start with a 8-10A fuse. If you blow the fuse YOU PROBABLY HAVE THE IGN SETTINGS WRONG. Constantly monitor the coil and ensure it is not getting HOT. If it is CHECK SPARK SETTINGS. Once you have everything setup and run in you wont need to worry but it is VERY easy to blow up these coils if your take chances. ask me i've blown 2 since i've switched to them, due my own stupidity.

You will only get a reading of the 5v logic with a scope or if your inverted setting is wrong. or a high quality multimeter.

Setting up solenoids is piss easy as is RPM output. ask me what it needs to do in a more direct question and i'll tell you how to go about it.

Speed will be the annoying one. Stock ECU must get speed form a permanent magnet transducer???? If it does, get a voltage converter from jaycar and hardwire into the gauge. calibrate. theres your speed.

So the dizzy needs a 5V reference or a 12V reference???
VR ground should hook to your "signal ground point"
i'm not familiar with the ign stuff your talking about..... Where does the ECU get is ign signal? A hall effect sensor in the Dizzy? or a crank gear?
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Offline Nomad

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #178 on: May 9, 2013, 01:57PM »
Hey, Pure, how did you go here?
We haven't heard anything for awhile regarding your MS and getting it running.

Offline Pure_Sincerity

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #179 on: May 9, 2013, 02:12PM »
Hey, Pure, how did you go here?
We haven't heard anything for awhile regarding your MS and getting it running.

Oh, we'll I fucked off the factory ecu and re wired it again full standalone. Installed 2 new relays, 1 being the main and the second for the fuel pump with a new under hood fuse box to run everything from that requires 12v power.
Injectors
Dizzy
Fuel pump
Ignition coil
Mega squirt
Wide band o2

All I need now is to wait for the post man to bring me a fuse kit, as Supercheap etc don't sell the sizes I need (3amp) once I install the fuses I should be good to go.
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