Author Topic: TRX gearbox removal  (Read 3751 times)

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Offline aylesy

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TRX gearbox removal
« on: Jun 18, 2005, 07:30PM »
Box comes out soon.
Need to know any tips, how-to's, tricks or pics, thanks!

Offline fraz

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Re: TRX gearbox removal
« Reply #1 on: Jun 19, 2005, 01:00AM »
Do it in this order:

-Remove the airbox, induction pipe, battery and battery tray
-Undo the big nut on the end of the passenger side driveshaft. its a 36mm i think, possibly 35
-Jack the front up and put it on stands.
-Drain the oil -its the 12or 14mm bolt on the bottom of the box near the shifter linkage.
-Undo the shifter -12mm socket and spanner
-Loosen the 3x 14mm nuts on the top of the passenger side strut
-Undo the 3x 17mm nuts on the bottom of the passenger side swingarm and rock the strut until it comes free of the swingarm.
-Turn the steering hard right and you should be able to remove the cv from the passenger side hub
-Hold the half shaft, push it into the gearbox and pull it quickily, this will pop the cv out of the gearbox

-unbolt the clutch slave cylinder and remove the clip from the hose where it goes over the gearbox and tuck the cylinder out of the way
-Unbolt the gearbox mount from the box and also remove the 14mm bolt holding the mount to the car.
-Put the jack under the end of the box and jack it up so its slightly higher that normal and get under the car with a 14mm spanner,socket, extensions, rachet.
-Undo the bolts under the box between the crossmember and bellhousing with a spanner, you might have to jack the box up some more.
-UNbolt the firewall side of the box from the bracket that goes from the box to the motor to the crossmember. Its a bitch to get in there but the socket will fit on an extension through this hole in the bracket
-remove the starter motor
-let the jack down and undo all the rest of the bolts holding the box to the motor, it wont fall off
-Put the 2 longest bolts (one from the starter, one from the rear bracket) into the 2 top holes in the bellhousing, just wind them in half a dozen turns by hand.
-lean over the guard and grab the end of the box and go for gold. It should slide off the motor with a bif of swearing and wiggling.

Refitting is the opposite order.
It helps to undo the 17mm nuts under the drivers side strut and the 3 12mm bolts holding the half shaft into the hanger bracket so you can slide the shaft back so the gearbox goes on easier
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Offline aylesy

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Re: TRX gearbox removal
« Reply #2 on: Jun 19, 2005, 09:06AM »
Perfect respnse, thanks!!

+karma  ;D

Offline bungs

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Re: TRX gearbox removal
« Reply #3 on: May 12, 2006, 06:12PM »

-Undo the big nut on the end of the passenger side driveshaft. its a 36mm i think, possibly 35


Anyone know what the exact size is? I don't want to have to go back and forth to the tool shop when i go buy one tomorrow. cheers

Offline Jtas

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Re: TRX gearbox removal
« Reply #4 on: May 12, 2006, 06:21PM »

The size of the nut on the driveshaft is definitely 36mm,

most auto shops and hardware stores dont stock 36mm sockets, they usually only go up to about 34mm.

I bought mine at a local Mechanical tool supply shop...

Offline bungs

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Re: TRX gearbox removal
« Reply #5 on: May 12, 2006, 06:24PM »
The size of the nut on the driveshaft is definitely 36mm,

most auto shops and hardware stores dont stock 36mm sockets, they usually only go up to about 34mm.

I bought mine at a local Mechanical tool supply shop...

excellent thanks for the quick response tas, hopefully glenfords have them.

Offline Colby

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Re: TRX gearbox removal
« Reply #6 on: May 12, 2006, 06:51PM »
Actually when i do it i dont undo that huge mofo of a nut,  if you take off the steering arm and the two 17mm bolts holding the strut to the hub assembly you can pivot the whole assembly hard left and wiggle the shaft out, then it will bend up and you can tuck it under the front guard.  ;)

Offline greenbird

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Re: TRX gearbox removal
« Reply #7 on: May 13, 2006, 12:07AM »
Bungs, Glenfords definately have them.
I bought my 3/4 drive 36mm socket and a breaker bar to go with it from Glenfords on NE road.
Cost me about $90 or $100 for the both of them if I remember correctly. Thet's a lot of money, but 3/4 drive stuff isn't cheap and once you buy it, you've got it for life.
Dan.


EDIT: hahahahaha, just realised that this thread is ancient. Whoops!
« Last Edit: May 13, 2006, 12:12AM by greenbird »
93 U13 Bluebird
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Offline bungs

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Re: TRX gearbox removal
« Reply #8 on: May 13, 2006, 01:02AM »
Bungs, Glenfords definately have them.
I bought my 3/4 drive 36mm socket and a breaker bar to go with it from Glenfords on NE road.
Cost me about $90 or $100 for the both of them if I remember correctly. Thet's a lot of money, but 3/4 drive stuff isn't cheap and once you buy it, you've got it for life.
Dan.


EDIT: hahahahaha, just realised that this thread is ancient. Whoops!

ahh cool. Yeah the one on NE road is pretty close to me so that's where I was going to go. Might try and take out the shaft without unbolting it in that case. If not then i'll just buy the tool.

« Last Edit: May 13, 2006, 02:39PM by bungs »

Offline Budgie

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Re: TRX gearbox removal
« Reply #9 on: May 13, 2006, 01:06AM »
I bought a 1/2 drive 36 impact socket to take my driveshaft off... cost me $17 from a local parts store.  Just bought a 1/4-1/2 drive adaptor as well.
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Offline greenbird

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Re: TRX gearbox removal
« Reply #10 on: May 13, 2006, 11:43AM »
ahh cool. Yeah the one on NE road is pretty close to me so that's where I was going to to. Might try and take out the shaft without unbolting it in that case. If not then i'll just buy the tool.

There is another way to get the bolt off of the driveshaft.....
Well, this is how we got the driveshafts out of my bro's U13 before I bought the tools.
First you belt 2 wheel studs back into the hub by putting a wheelnut on them and then smacking them in with a hammer (thread on the nut until it is flush with the end of the stud, so that you don't damage the thread).
Then you will (just) have the room to get a large shifter onto the nut. Have someone stand on the brakes in the car and put an extension bar of some sort (we used a long piece of round galv fencing post) on the end of the shifter to give the leverage you need to get it undone. Just make sure that the shifter doesn't slip off!
When you have put it back together, all you need to do is put the nuts back onto the studs (before you put the wheel on) and tighten the nuts up to pull the studs back into the hub.
It's definately easier with the socket, but it can be done without.
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Offline andy_fordtec

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Re: TRX gearbox removal
« Reply #11 on: Apr 26, 2009, 01:46PM »
mate just remember crack the drive shaft nut when the wheels are on the ground if you can cause they should be done up to about 280nm and they can be tighter i had my box out in 45 min but being a mechanic i had the tools i needed and a battery rattle gun helps alot and when doing un use a big bar or something about a meter long to help get it tight

Offline Habibosaurus

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Re: TRX gearbox removal
« Reply #12 on: Apr 26, 2009, 02:48PM »
mate just remember crack the drive shaft nut when the wheels are on the ground if you can cause they should be done up to about 280nm and they can be tighter i had my box out in 45 min but being a mechanic i had the tools i needed and a battery rattle gun helps alot and when doing un use a big bar or something about a meter long to help get it tight


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