Author Topic: Manifold Example (Read 8205 times)

[JAZZIE] · « **on:** Sep 5, 2003, 03:03PM »

http://members.iinet.net.au/~jasminew85/Manifold/

thats a link to an example of what our manifolds that we fabricate look like..

this one was completed 1 week ago.. only just got pics back..

next manifold we are doing is one for mine for my turbo upgrade... when i get back from sydney (if i have any money left after i take my sister shopping.. HAH)

if your interested in one or more.. email me [email protected]

Antrx member special

(Doesnt matter what state you live in we can still do it, you guys just need to pay for your manifold and the shipping to get it over to you.)
KA24 manifolds for us to do it for you is $600 each
if 5 of you are interested then we can do them for $500 Each
(my car is the model for which its to be completed on to make sure it fits and works)

i rang up jap place over here they said they could do it for $1500 (i laughed and hung up)

[JAZZIE] · « **Reply #1 on:** Sep 5, 2003, 03:10PM »

oh i forgot to mention.. we can adapt it to any turbo that you wish to run on your car...

such as that manifold we just did is for a T3 style turbo. It'll take a:

Garrett T3 and T28 (ball bearing or non ball bearing)
HKS or Garrett GT30, GT32, GT35 etc etc

Very very easy to make it take a GT20, GT25, GT28 and T25

Very easy to make it take an IHI (VF22, 23, 24), Trust T-series or Mitsubishi (TD04, TD05 or TD06) turbo also

Garrett T04 turbos will take a little extra work to fit, as will most Hitachi/Toyota turbos (CT12, CT20, CT26).

The actual turbo shown in that pic is a Garrett T28 ball bearing

aussie-gli · « **Reply #2 on:** Sep 5, 2003, 05:00PM »

is that mild or stainless??

[JAZZIE] · « **Reply #3 on:** Sep 5, 2003, 05:45PM »

Mild

stainless manifolds are "all show" and will always crack much sooner than mild. They're really only good for extractors (no weight of turbo on it) and show cars or weekend cars that dont see much use.

Im sure we could do a pretty stainless manifold.. for over $1000 of course as the metal is so much more expensive and more difficult to work with.

noss · « **Reply #4 on:** Sep 5, 2003, 06:12PM »

hell yeah, the cost of stainless is ridiculous.

[JAZZIE] · « **Reply #5 on:** Sep 5, 2003, 06:15PM »

indeedy

noss · « **Reply #6 on:** Sep 5, 2003, 06:17PM »

oh, and not to mention the gas to weld the stainless, bloody fortune.

[JAZZIE] · « **Reply #7 on:** Sep 5, 2003, 06:18PM »

cannnnnnnnnttttttttt waaaaaaiiiiiiitttt for turbo power!!

SSS · « **Reply #8 on:** Sep 5, 2003, 08:12PM »

And you're doing this on a stock bottom end?
How thick is the tubing?

[JAZZIE] · « **Reply #9 on:** Sep 5, 2003, 10:09PM »

yeh, the turbo we are puting on the TX3 is slightly larger than the stock one

3.8mm thick tubing

is that ok with u sir?

~

SSS · « **Reply #10 on:** Sep 6, 2003, 02:25PM »

No, i meant on the TRX.....you could run 10psi in the KA with a std block provided the tuning is right, but don't expect the pistons to last long.

Do you get your manifolds heat treated?

zac510 · « **Reply #11 on:** Sep 7, 2003, 12:41AM »

Cool, I'll be interested to see how you tackle the manifold - the KA24 head is a bit tricky with the 1&2 and 3&4 ports so close together. It's not impossible, but just perhaps a little more tricky

[JAZZIE] · « **Reply #12 on:** Sep 7, 2003, 02:02AM »

we did my extractors

its not that difficult

jayjay · « **Reply #13 on:** Sep 7, 2003, 02:36AM »

have you checked clearance for the aircon or are you getting rid of that?
i think if you wanted to keep it you would prolly have to mount the turbo upside down
jayjay

[JAZZIE] · « **Reply #14 on:** Sep 7, 2003, 03:00AM »

my aircon doesnt work neways

im sure we will figure sumfin

jayjay · « **Reply #15 on:** Sep 7, 2003, 04:32PM »

id wanna keep my aircon
specially in summer
hehehe
jayjay

SSS · « **Reply #16 on:** Sep 7, 2003, 08:35PM »

jayjay, i'm doing my manifold around the aircon, shouldn't be too hard. Just need to find a good place to run the dump pipe.

[JAZZIE] · « **Reply #17 on:** Sep 8, 2003, 01:11PM »

quoted from an email to a friend with a TRX:

"keeping your air con is no problem at all. If I can do a manifold for that TX3 and keep the aircon, I can do it in the TRX which has twice as much room!

That TX3's new turbo/manifold was less than 10mm from hitting the block, radiator fan, aircon and engine mount, intake pipes ( in two spots) and radiator hose... but I still managed to make it fit nicely!"

jayjay · « **Reply #18 on:** Sep 8, 2003, 02:20PM »

yeah i like the idea , the only problem is the mild steel , if that flakes and goes into the turbo , bye bye
ta
jayjay

[JAZZIE] · « **Reply #19 on:** Sep 8, 2003, 02:25PM »

if the job is dont properly you wont have to worry about that!

trust us on this one.. genie did our dump pipe/cat and they didnt clean it out.. and when we did the block there was filings in the cylinders.. NOT HAPPY!

now the block is stuffed, its cracked.. getting a new one this afternoon.. i think we are getting a TRD special one *shrugs* just want one that reliable! haha

but yes jay jay.. we make sure its not gonna hurt your turbo.. and as i have said to other pplz.. my car is the guinea pig to make sure it seals appropriately and runs nicely..

so for brief periods of doing jobs for you guys.. my car gets turboed! haha

when i get back from sydney im saving for a gearbox (manual) and a turbo and possibly a FWD sr20det *fingers crossed* if not its going on my baby!

ok ive finished blabbering

SSS · « **Reply #20 on:** Sep 8, 2003, 03:19PM »

Tell me if i'm wrong, but that "coating" on the TX3 manifold looks like black spray paint...

trxadelaide · « **Reply #21 on:** Sep 8, 2003, 03:46PM »

I have been weighing up my options , whether to go fast NA or Turbo my KA24e. I rekon im gona turbo it though, i will b interestd in one of those manifolds in the future, probably 6 months or sumtin like that. I gotta save up the cash first!!

what parts do I need and how much will they cost if i decide going turbo?? can u supply or do you know where to get all the crap I will need?I rekon ill get my mates secondhand turbo off of his SR20DET to stick on it.

Cheers big ears!!!!

[JAZZIE] · « **Reply #22 on:** Sep 8, 2003, 04:08PM »

Quote from: sssgtr on Sep 8, 2003, 03:19PM

Tell me if i'm wrong, but that "coating" on the TX3 manifold looks like black spray paint...

its high temp paint, its not intended to be on there permanently its on there entirely to create even colouring after welding once the paint burns off

[JAZZIE] · « **Reply #23 on:** Sep 8, 2003, 04:48PM »

if you are interested in turboing your ka24 the link below will tell you what is needed and what mods you may need to forfil:

http://www.antrx.com/yabb/index.php?board=16;action=display;threadid=1657

[JAZZIE] · « **Reply #24 on:** Sep 10, 2003, 03:22PM »

http://members.iinet.net.au/~jasminew85/Turbos/

Link above is a pic of sum sweet turbos

gt25 is going on an s15
the gt35 and its buddy is going on a mk4 supra

jayjay · « **Reply #25 on:** Sep 10, 2003, 06:28PM »

quite the nice family of snails there
heheheh
jayjay

[JAZZIE] · « **Reply #26 on:** Sep 10, 2003, 06:37PM »

yuhuh..

aussie-gli · « **Reply #27 on:** Sep 11, 2003, 01:02AM »

Quote from: DeViLsGaL on Sep 5, 2003, 05:45PM

Mild

stainless manifolds are "all show" and will always crack much sooner than mild. They're really only good for extractors (no weight of turbo on it) and show cars or weekend cars that dont see much use.

Im sure we could do a pretty stainless manifold.. for over $1000 of course as the metal is so much more expensive and more difficult to work with.

My mate had a manifold fabricated for his micra... when he went to the dude who's putting it in, he refused to fit it coz it was mild steel. He said that the heat causes the steel to flake, and as soon as that goes into ur turbo, it's farked... That's what the say about extractors too, they say it'll stuff ur cat converter...

[JAZZIE] · « **Reply #28 on:** Sep 11, 2003, 01:08PM »

Let me see, how can I reply to this one.
test %1.. get an oxygen torch and heat a mild steel pipe to glowing bright orange. Bash it with a hammer until its completely mangled if you wish.. mild steel will not flake

What WILL flake is mild steel internally coated with ceramic. Or coated with some other rust prevention substances.. though the flakes caused by that are usually harmless and soft.

Evidence #1... Mitsubishi 3000GT.. due to cooling problems, the rear (hotter) turbo exhaust manifold is mild steel tubular from the factory!
Evidence #2... why not give some first hand experience.. my MR2's mild steel manifold. I have had the collector of this manifold glowing bright red.. with the turbo itself glowing also.. countless times. I have it off the car at the moment and I am more than willing to take photos of the inside of the manifold. no evidence of flaking at all.

Extractors! Ok.. probably 50% of all N/A cars out there come with mild steel headers or extractors from the factory. Take the cat off after 100,000kms.. you will not see flakes. many mild steel pipes are coated in aluminium to prevent rusting.. if these were used on extractors then I can forsee this thin layer flaking off.. for sure. Though I also forsee it to be harmless as it is so thin and would burn off into tiny particles before becoming a large solid flake.

Quite simply.. if your friend didnt put the manifold on simply cause it was mild steel, then he/she wasted a perfectly good manifold.

If the manifold were left openly in the rain with water getting INSIDE the runners for a long time.. it might flake due to corrosion.
if welds were not ground back correctly inside the runners... it will most definately flake.. that goes for mild and stainless aswell. I suspect this is the rumour which probably got a little out of hand by the time it reached this guy... so that he thinks mild steel will flake regardless.

I think the person who said that heat will cause all mild steel manifolds to flake should do a little more research.

And yes, my manifolds are internally ground.

Also, the chances of small metal flakes actually damaging the turbine of the turbo is not at all that high. Higher on the ceramic turbines for sure.. but even still, they're quite tough. I wouldnt go so far as to say 'as soon as it goes it, its farked'.

Especially hardened steel turbines as is found on virtually every aftermarket turbo, and some factory units. They will take a fair beating!

Perhaps its true that the steel could flake after a very long period of use.. but lets face it, no mild steel manifold will last forever.. they have a limited lifespan, much like a turbo. Quite simply Ive never seen evidence of this being true.. nor have I actually ever heard of anyone stating this theory before.

-Tristan

SSS · « **Reply #29 on:** Sep 11, 2003, 02:36PM »

All factory exhaust manifolds, especially on turbo cars, are cast iron; for ease of production and longevity/reliability.
You are forgetting the fact that at often 800+ deg C that exhaust gas is passing through the pipes at a ridiculous velocity and pressure; a minor surface flaw in the steel can cause a type of cavitation where the metal is slowly worn away; hence flaking of small particles.
Steam pipe is a different matter.
No one answered my question about if you heat treat your manifolds.
You must have a magical die grinder, how are you going to grind back the welds in the middle of a bend? Not many places here in oz do extrude honing, and even then it is expensive.

Author Topic: Manifold Example (Read 8205 times)

trxadelaide