Author Topic: fitting new lowered springs  (Read 2674 times)

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Offline fez200

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fitting new lowered springs
« on: Jan 31, 2006, 08:32AM »
has anyone had the pleasure of changing the front and rear springs themselves in their vehicle, if so was it hard and do you need any special tools.

I pretty much have a full workshop even have spring compressor (dont know why just picked it up for free) plus i can use works hoist.

i got the complete set of lovell springs for $185 delivered...cheap huh :o
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Offline phreeky

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Re: fitting new lowered springs
« Reply #1 on: Jan 31, 2006, 11:01AM »
it should be a piece of piss mate, although i've never used a spring compressor. front strut/spring assembly took me 15 min to get out and back in each site for a quick inspection.

- jack up
- wheel off
- undo two strut base bolts and push off to side, keeping lower control arm supported by a upside bucket (that's what i used)
- maybe undo brake line support things (a bolt each, nothing major)
- undo top three bolts
- drop it all down and do ya spring change i guess

i imagine the rear wouldn't be that much more complicated?!?!? never done rears, but i guess u just get to the strut tower tops from the boot?!?!?

i'm kinda tempted to do this soon because i just can't afford so go all out with suspension atm :-(

Offline Budgie

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Re: fitting new lowered springs
« Reply #2 on: Jan 31, 2006, 11:44AM »
Thats bloody cheap for HNU13 springs mate.

My springs were custom made by King, a modified version of some that had been previously made for a HNU12 (when Milford from here now owns).  They cost alot more than $185 delivered!!

Stupid RNU12 being differant to the HNU13.

I had mine fitted by my local tyreplace who are absolute guns.  Charged me $50 for it all, they also had to pull the rear springs in and out twice as the first set didn't lower the car at all... second set came from King then they installed them again for free.
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Offline Resin

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Re: fitting new lowered springs
« Reply #3 on: Jan 31, 2006, 12:08PM »
has anyone had the pleasure of changing the front and rear springs themselves in their vehicle, if so was it hard and do you need any special tools.

I pretty much have a full workshop even have spring compressor (dont know why just picked it up for free) plus i can use works hoist.

i got the complete set of lovell springs for $185 delivered...cheap huh :o


haha 15mins what planet are u on?!!! .........

has anyone had the pleasure of changing the front and rear springs themselves in their vehicle, if so was it hard and do you need any special tools.

I pretty much have a full workshop even have spring compressor (dont know why just picked it up for free) plus i can use works hoist.

i got the complete set of lovell springs for $185 delivered...cheap huh :o

ok for serious answer on this .........i wouldnt say its a pleasure...more like a pain in the arse but yes it is quite straight forward.

Factor in a whole day for both front and rear.(if its ur first time)
Buy a gregorys manual as this will help heaps.
U will need spring compressors

The hardest things about it are removing bolts (this can be easy or quite difficult depending when the suspension was last worked on)
Marking how the spring and strut top are positioned as this will matter heaps when re installing. (the manual will inform u more about this)
Using spring compressors - they are the slowest point in the process and the most annoying try and limit the times you use these ! ie get it right the first time.

I have done it in my old pintara (just springs ) and then the ceffy all though they were coilovers so it made it heaps easier and quicker as it was a direct replacement but i still lost knuckle skin.

Offline phreeky

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Re: fitting new lowered springs
« Reply #4 on: Jan 31, 2006, 04:53PM »

haha 15mins what planet are u on?!!! .........


jeez can u read? 15min, per corner (well i only did the fronts), to remove the strut/spring together (i.e. still captive). and i'd never done it before either.

Offline Resin

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Re: fitting new lowered springs
« Reply #5 on: Jan 31, 2006, 05:26PM »
jeez can u read? 15min, per corner (well i only did the fronts), to remove the strut/spring together (i.e. still captive). and i'd never done it before either.

i quickly read it so i mssed the last bit...


Marking how the spring and strut top are positioned as this will matter heaps when re installing. (the manual will inform u more about this)

what i mean by this is the plate/top of the strut has a particular position in realation to the lower control arm ....and i sorta worked this out on the second strut and ended up with the spring mounted the wrong way whcih meant when the spring compressed it hit the chasis of the car. ( u will undertsnad prolly once u see take the strut and spring out)