Author Topic: ka24e ~1500 rpm splutter (Read 7398 times)

rathies · « **on:** Oct 24, 2008, 02:28AM »

my car has developed a 1500rpm splutter when starting off from the set of lights, it gets to that point and misses a beat or two then happily keeps going. is it an o2 sensor/ tps or something?

could it also be an igniton system issue? i've been thinking about freshening that up but i'm not sure if i need a resistor coil pack or not.

Sik_bb_trx · « **Reply #1 on:** Oct 24, 2008, 10:36AM »

I feel your pain, im in the process of replaceing everything you mentioned to see if it makes a difference nothing has worked so far o2 and tps are next

I will post up if it fixes it

minimikee · « **Reply #2 on:** Oct 24, 2008, 11:59AM »

Have you done an ECU diagnosis??

noss · « **Reply #3 on:** Oct 24, 2008, 01:24PM »

i had this problem in the trx for a while, it got quite bad actually while i was trying to figure out what the hell it was.. but now i cant remember what the hell i did to fix it.

i know i replaced plugs, leads, pumped the intake full of throttle body cleaner, checked for intake leaks, replaced the dizzy cap & rotor, replaced the coil, replaced the fuel pressure regulator, fuel pump and fuel filter.. also air filter too.. changed where i got my fuel from, went back to a stock tune.. it was an expensive process.

i think though, that the improvements came when i replaced the coil.

oh actually, i think i had this problem with the t as well.. there is something next to the coil, or attached to the same bracket as the coil, i believe its called a power transistor.. they fail quite often in the 300zx.. but i replaced this and i think this might have fixed it!

rathies · « **Reply #4 on:** Oct 25, 2008, 11:30AM »

Quote from: minimikee on Oct 24, 2008, 11:59AM

Have you done an ECU diagnosis??

no but i'll try it, the ecu won't show me a fault code unless the fault is there..like said it only comes at 1500rpm then goes.. and its only sometimes.

Quote from: noss on Oct 24, 2008, 01:24PM

i think though, that the improvements came when i replaced the coil.

I've been eyeing off the bosch gt40.. because its easy to get..but do i need a resistor model or not?

Quote from: noss on Oct 24, 2008, 01:24PM

i believe its called a power transistor.. they fail quite often in the 300zx.. but i replaced this and i think this might have fixed it!

so the transistor was causing the spluter at only 1500 rpm and not all the way through? its the little JECS box isn't it?

noss · « **Reply #5 on:** Oct 25, 2008, 08:48PM »

Quote from: rathies on Oct 25, 2008, 11:30AM

I've been eyeing off the bosch gt40.. because its easy to get..but do i need a resistor model or not?

you dont need the transistor model no

Quote from: rathies on Oct 25, 2008, 11:30AM

so the transistor was causing the spluter at only 1500 rpm and not all the way through? its the little JECS box isn't it?

yeh something like that.

rathies · « **Reply #6 on:** Oct 26, 2008, 07:10PM »

well so far I've replaced the Dizzy rotor button and cap. it hasn't fixed the splutter but f*ck me it made the car go faster. New coil comes tomorrow.. we'll see what happens.

wicked · « **Reply #7 on:** Oct 26, 2008, 10:19PM »

Have you checked that there is no oil in the distributor. The last time my car splutter at low RPM, that fixed that.

Also, I don't think ECU will throw out a code on this unless it're pretty serious. eg. engine dying etc.

If there is oil, give it a good clean with a electrical cleaner (aerosol cans from Jaycar will do fine and it will dry up quickly too), silicon up the distributor to prevent oil from going in again (can't recommend any good silicon).

Good luck.

rathies · « **Reply #8 on:** Oct 27, 2008, 12:09AM »

i basically did a service of it, pulled it apart and degreased what i could. the seal that joins it to the camshaft was replaced too.. Is the CAS serviceable in anyway? i.e. cleanable? or does it need to be replaced?

Also what involvement does the o2 sensor have in this car? I've had people tell me it can affect the acceleration? I thought it only affected cruise on this engine.

wicked · « **Reply #9 on:** Oct 27, 2008, 06:16PM »

Before I start, let me just quickly run through what happened on my car before:

1. Splutter while accelerating and cruising (checked, no error codes)
2. One day, engine died while I was cruising home. (checked the code 11, indicating that it's CAS)

If you get the electrical cleaner from Jaycar (aerosol can), you should be able to give the CAS and the disc a good clean (assuming it's similar to the U13), shake off the excess cleaner and it should dry in no time.

I went a bit more extreme, loosening the screws holding the CAS together, sticked the nozzle of the electrical cleaner and give it a good shower.

Important point, don't break or bend the whole disc.

I haven't done anything with O2 sensor as yet so I can't tell you much.

Good luck.

Sik_bb_trx · « **Reply #10 on:** Oct 28, 2008, 03:17PM »

FIXED

Cheers Wicked, pulled appart my distributor, got to the CAS disc. cleaned it up nice and the car runs like a rocket again, it was the oil seel on the shaft and cap that failed.

noss · « **Reply #11 on:** Oct 28, 2008, 04:03PM »

the narrowband o2 sensor is indeed just for cruise.

wicked · « **Reply #12 on:** Oct 28, 2008, 06:13PM »

Quote from: Sik_bb_trx on Oct 28, 2008, 03:17PM

FIXED

Cheers Wicked, pulled appart my distributor, got to the CAS disc. cleaned it up nice and the car runs like a rocket again, it was the oil seel on the shaft and cap that failed.

Good stuff. How's Rathies doing?

rathies · « **Reply #13 on:** Oct 28, 2008, 08:24PM »

lacking of time haha..but yes i have contact cleaner and I will try it. I replaced the seal where the dizzy connects to the cam shaft, that was causing alot of oil to leak onto the gearbox. are you saying there is another seal that lets oil get into the cas that I need to replace??

Kranzy · « **Reply #14 on:** Oct 28, 2008, 08:49PM »

There is an seal, more so for dust, but its between the cap and the dizzy housing.

wicked · « **Reply #15 on:** Oct 29, 2008, 11:02AM »

Yeah, there is a seal (oring) that sits on the shaft of the distributor. Sounds like you've replaced that already.

I'm refering to the seal on the distributor cap. Kranzy is kind of right. But, if there is a leak from that oring (on the shaft), oil would sip onto the cover of the distibutor, leaking into the distributor. The dust seal doesn't work very well against oil. It's more of a precaution thingy that I recommend some silicon on the outer casing, in case any oil leak through the distributor cap.

rathies · « **Reply #16 on:** Oct 29, 2008, 09:19PM »

good call wicked.. I think i'll silicone mine up for sure. I'm gonna tackle it right now.

rathies · « **Reply #17 on:** Oct 30, 2008, 12:57AM »

well the news is cleaning the cas didn't help $:-\$ it actually made more 'spluter' points in the rev range approx 2-3k rpm, but they're pretty intermittent and mostly at WOT. I will consult nissan about the price of a replacement cas or possibly whole dizzy tomorrow.
I'm thinking the TPS or maf could play a part in this splutter too.. any thoughts?

Sik_bb_trx · « **Reply #18 on:** Oct 31, 2008, 10:49AM »

I replaced my AFM and it made no difference, maybe the TPS??

wicked · « **Reply #19 on:** Oct 31, 2008, 12:17PM »

Timing? Just in case you have the distributor installed, rotated too much to a side.

rathies · « **Reply #20 on:** Nov 2, 2008, 05:07PM »

I just checked the distributor timing it was fine. TPS and MAF both cleaned with contact cleaner.
last night I noticed that i sounded more like it was losing a cylinder, so I cleaned out the injector plugs (which have no clips..sigh) and it didn't make a difference.

so I started the car and had a listen around the engine bay and found one of the leads is cracked and arc's out every now and then, stupid bosch car parts. Its only 2 or 3000km old and I'm always careful not to undo them until its time to change them. So i'll grab some new leads now and see what happens.

rathies · « **Reply #21 on:** Nov 2, 2008, 06:49PM »

ok so just to recap.

-approx ~1500 rpm but sometimes 2-3000rpm
-sounds like its losing a cylinder
-replaced dizzy cap, rotor button, leads.
-cleaned cas, injector plugs, maf + plug, cas plug
-checked for intake leaks none evident.

It still coughs ! $:-\$

Jono · « **Reply #22 on:** Nov 2, 2008, 09:10PM »

Clean and inspect the coil for cracks

See if you can swap a known good power transistor in

rathies · « **Reply #23 on:** Nov 7, 2008, 06:24PM »

In other news it seems to run near on perfect with 92ron and splutters its hole off with 98ron, its running a stage 2 chip.. and its been run on nothing but 98ron for at least the last 2 years.

rathies · « **Reply #24 on:** Nov 13, 2008, 01:12AM »

bit of an update.. car is currently running 92ron
-replaced coil today, went on a cruise and the splutter slowly got worse. after close to 100k's of driving the thing would basically splutter below 3000pm (free rev or acceleration), if i let it sit there idling the exhaust would give a small pop every 20 seconds.
All the signs point to advanced timing because the motor was really hot to touch when I stopped (temp guage was fine). I will check the freakin timing tomorrow and try to get to the bottom of this.

For the record I have seen this exact same splutter before on another WAntrx members TRX, it turned out his SCV's were stuck shut, we jiggled them a bit and it free'd them up. I checked mine and the acutator moves and springs back on its own.

Any ideas from anyone with a similar prob??

rathies · « **Reply #25 on:** Nov 13, 2008, 09:41PM »

alright thanks for the overwhelming

response guys. The car is fixed! distributor was turned to almost full retard to fix the running too hot issue.
The splutter was contributed to a cracked spark plug arcing out. but the crack wasn't big enough to see, I sure as hell heard it though. Replaced it and now it runs like a dream, you can even pull out of corners in 3rd.

wicked · « **Reply #26 on:** Dec 6, 2008, 08:27AM »

Good stuff, the bluey lives again.