contact me on skype and i will send you my data sheet to work out dwell limitations. Will come in handy down the track.
You need to be SURE you configuration is correct for the ign1a or it will exceed its duty cycle and bake the epoxy out of the case. i've blown up 2. one because my inversion setting was wrong and the other because i was re flashing the ECU while the ign was still connected.
Just to clarify, I am not familiar with your current board configuration. But the IGN1A will run directly from the megasquirt without the need for a "power transistor" it will trigger from a negative going (i think) 5v logic signal.
I have all the specification data for the IGN1a so when you skype me ask me for that too and i'll flick the PDF your way.
and this is the one here:
http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/ign1a-race-coil-p-394.htmlif you have not got your jimstim yet buy it here and combine the postage:
http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/jimstim-v15-megasquirt-stimulator-wheel-simulator-unassembl-p-174.htmli recommend you get the kit and build it yourself! This will give you the hands on experience you need to tackle more advanced board mods on the megasquirt in the future.
a good soldering iron will be an idea here and a handy helper. This one looks good, takes industry standard tips. temp controlled. rapid heat up. once you use one of these types you wont go back to your 20w handheld again. 900m-t series tips are all over ebay for a couple of bus each too, I'd recommend having a 1mm or less tip for intricate stuff. a 1.7ish for general stuff and a 3mm shovel for heavier work.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-60W-220V-Weld-Soldering-Station-Iron-Stand-Digital-Temp-Control-Sponge-INCL-/150963295053?pt=AU_B_I_Electrical_Test_Equipment&hash=item23261d134d&_uhb=1#ht_4368wt_1397and once you get one of these you will not understand how you did it before. Use it for holding things in place as you solder, holding the pcb. prtyable. iake it otu and use it in the eng bay of the car for joining wires, or working the db37 plugs. i highly recommend.
and an electronics tool kit
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Electronic-Cutting-Pliers-1-3mm-16AWG-copper-wire-HS-109-1091-/300860739328?pt=AU_Hand_Tools&hash=item460cb28f00&_uhb=1#ht_500wt_1180That's an example, things i commonly use are the snips. High quality pair of snits is a must. Round nose pliers and square nose pliers. can usually pick up a kit that has them all from j-car or dick smith electronics.
Also, some 99% isopropanol for cleaning once your done. and Liquid flux for repairing, dry joints and stubborn joints. Iso id kinda of hard to get. and liquid flux is really hard to get, specially when you got nub-tards trying to tell you "you don't need it, its in the solder" Yes, i know it's in the solder. I know what i'm talking about. Regardless of your "university" training. This is what i do, board rework and repair will need liquid flux to have any good results. its the difference between a professional job, and a shit one.
Now i'm rambling.
I'll forgive you if you cant find any though, i ended up liberating a few hundred mill from work as no retail outlet had any.
lastly get some board lacquer
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Circuit-Board-Lacquer-Spray-Can-/390443584135?pt=AU_Toys_Hobbies_Model_Kits&hash=item5ae8404a87&_uhb=1#ht_3585wt_1202after everything is built, tested and has been working in the car for a couple of weeks. Pull it out. remove anything you need too (ie cpu) and give it a GOOD clean with iso and 2 coats of this.
This will environmentally seal the board and dramatically reduce the risk of moisture, dust and vibration from damaging the board.