Author Topic: Urgent help.  (Read 29851 times)

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Offline Pure_Sincerity

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Urgent help.
« on: Feb 21, 2013, 02:10PM »
My wiring for the stand alone is done, and I can start te car any moment, BUT 1 problem.

I need to trace down the 12v power source for the injectors and splice it into the ECU power supply (pin 38) BEFORE the engine control relay so the megasquirt and injectors power up at the exact same time.

Where the fuck is this 12v injector power source wire located ?

You got the 4 12v power source wires coming off the injectors (1 for each) than they merge into 1 somewhere along the line. Where is it behind the dash ?
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Offline Pure_Sincerity

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #1 on: Feb 21, 2013, 02:27PM »
So once the wires get down behind the dash, they separate, 1 big bundle of wires that go over to the stock ecu, than a few separate ones branch off going elsewhere. Since the 12v injector power source don't go to the ecu, I would say ONE of those wires branched off would be the 12v power source ? Just colour match it those coming from the injectors ?
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Offline Pure_Sincerity

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #2 on: Feb 21, 2013, 02:55PM »
Looked at the injector wire colours. They all have 1 light green wire than all the others are different. I dare say that the light green wires are the 12v power source. Looking back under the dash from the drivers side, as I said before, most of them branch off to the passenger side and into the stock ecu, than the few others go into plugs than lead else where. As I said before, the injector 12v power source does not go to the factory ecu than one of these wires branched off must be the 12v ? There is 1 wire, the exact same colour light green as what I believe to be the 12v source, so I would say this is it ?
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Offline Pure_Sincerity

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #3 on: Feb 22, 2013, 09:57AM »
33 reads and no answer :(
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Offline SSS

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #4 on: Feb 22, 2013, 11:44AM »
Have you even looked at the wiring diagrams in the FSM?
It will tell you where it is and what colour / trace is on that wire.

Offline SSS

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #5 on: Feb 22, 2013, 12:13PM »
Red / Blue wire on back of SMJ connector 1E; pin is E1.

Took me 15mins to find it.

Check that it has 12v when the key is at ACC and ON; and with the key at OFF also check that it has continuity with pin 34 on the connector side of the long blue standard ecu plug.
« Last Edit: Feb 22, 2013, 12:16PM by SSS »

Offline noss

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #6 on: Feb 22, 2013, 12:25PM »
33 reads and no answer :(

you'll probably find that with a topic like "urgent help" you'll get a lot of looks, but then when people read the content of the post they probably have no input because they simply do not know. people aren't going to reply with "sorry don't know"

you'll now probably see the views creep up because they'll want to see what adam said.

you still won't get any replies.

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Offline Colby

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #7 on: Feb 22, 2013, 12:56PM »
Sorry don't know  :P

Offline Pure_Sincerity

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #8 on: Feb 22, 2013, 01:02PM »
Have you even looked at the wiring diagrams in the FSM?
It will tell you where it is and what colour / trace is on that wire.

I have looked in the FSM, all I saw was the 4, 12v power wires comin of the injectors and joining into 1 than up to the top of the page pass the ecu power relay than I got lost.

Red / Blue wire on back of SMJ connector 1E; pin is E1.

Took me 15mins to find it.

Check that it has 12v when the key is at ACC and ON; and with the key at OFF also check that it has continuity with pin 34 on the connector side of the long blue standard ecu plug.

Red wire/blue stripe ? What's the SMJ connecter ? Lol
I will have to re read my FSM in a sec, no idea where you found that info, I couldn't find shit.
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Offline Kranzy

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #9 on: Feb 22, 2013, 01:55PM »
I didn't reply, because without being able to check things with a multimeter talking about it doesn't mean anything. Wiring through cars can change colours from one connector to the next so its very hard to diagnose an issue without being there first hand to look at it.

Its very easy to say yeah its the green wire. Then you wire it up and your ecu goes bang and then you'll be back here with more issues than you started with.

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Offline Pure_Sincerity

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #10 on: Feb 22, 2013, 02:05PM »
SSS, what FSM do you have ? I have the Gregory's autofix, Pintara/corsair owners service manual.

I can not find it for the life of me. Just spent 20 minutes going through it, on the page with the wiring diagram for the car, it does not state the wire colour, and what is the SMJ connecter?

This is literally the last thing I have to do before I can start the car for the first Time.
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Offline Kranzy

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #11 on: Feb 22, 2013, 02:18PM »
Grab the fsm that can be downloaded from antrx. It's the full service manual from Nissan.
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Offline Kranzy

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #12 on: Feb 22, 2013, 02:21PM »
Quote from: noss
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Offline SSS

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #13 on: Feb 22, 2013, 02:25PM »
Pg 824 / 894 of fsm

Offline SSS

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #14 on: Feb 22, 2013, 02:31PM »
fsm for FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL

Offline Pure_Sincerity

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #15 on: Feb 22, 2013, 02:36PM »
fsm for FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL
i asked what SMJ was :P not fsm. im looking through the one you just linked me kranz, cheer guys ^_^
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Offline noss

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #16 on: Feb 22, 2013, 03:37PM »



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Offline Pure_Sincerity

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #17 on: Feb 22, 2013, 04:06PM »
So now every single last piece of my dash is out, just so I have enough room to get to this SMJ connector.

But 1 question, no where on those pages in that FSM state that the injector 12v power source is in that SMJ nor does it state what pins are what it colours of wires, so how do you know that 1E, pin E1 is the right pin ? And it is impossible to get to, I have metal framing surrounding it. That's if it's even the right SMJ. There are only 2 here, but 4 SMJ connectors on the paper, I'm looking at the 1 far right on the divers side.

I'll put a pic up in a sec of what I think It is, and the wire is red with a black stripe in what should be pin E1.
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Offline Pure_Sincerity

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #18 on: Feb 22, 2013, 04:16PM »


how much of the dash i had to pull out to get to the connector on the far right, thats right, all of it. Never gonna be the same again :(








This is the only SMJ conncetor i can find that even looks remotely like the one i need. That red wire with BLACK stripe is the wire in the E1 Pin. would this be it ?
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Offline SSS

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #19 on: Feb 22, 2013, 04:37PM »
Sorry, it could be red / black;  the wire was marked "R/B".

Offline Pure_Sincerity

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #20 on: Feb 22, 2013, 04:43PM »
Imma risk it, that should be it, that's what I'll wire into the ECU power pin 38 before the relay to get the megasquirt and injectors to power at the same time.
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Offline SSS

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #21 on: Feb 22, 2013, 06:12PM »
Check it FIRST like I mentioned above, just don't hook it up and pray for the best.

Offline Pure_Sincerity

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #22 on: Feb 23, 2013, 08:45AM »
I'm going to get my dad to do it tomorrow, I've never used a multimeter before, than if it is giving off the 12v than I'll wire it in.
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Offline SSS

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #23 on: Feb 23, 2013, 09:12AM »
No offense aaron, credit where credit is due for giving it a go, but I strongly recommend that you get an auto elec to check your wiring.

ou really are running the risk of frying both your standard ecu and the ms2 if you don't even know how to use something as basic as a multimeter to verify / check your wiring.

Can I assume you used those god awful scotch lock / vampire connectors to tee into the existing wiring?

Offline Pure_Sincerity

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #24 on: Feb 23, 2013, 09:46AM »
No offense aaron, credit where credit is due for giving it a go, but I strongly recommend that you get an auto elec to check your wiring.

ou really are running the risk of frying both your standard ecu and the ms2 if you don't even know how to use something as basic as a multimeter to verify / check your wiring.

Can I assume you used those god awful scotch lock / vampire connectors to tee into the existing wiring?

All my wiring so far is exactly where it should be, o2, injectors, coolant temp, air temp, dizzy, tps, etc. ive spoken to Matt Cramer and they are where they should be, and the old man has checked over all that so far and everything's in the right place, he has years experience with wiring etc, but hes obviously not an auto electrician.

To tee the Lines in, I had used crimps just like factory wiring

But also, what's a scotch lock/vampire connectors ? Are they the things that you twist together via a screw driver to bind the wires ? Yeah they suck.
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Offline noss

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #25 on: Feb 23, 2013, 11:27AM »
no its one of those things with like a blade in it, you put the wire through and you lock the plastic over the blade piece which pierces the insulation and makes contact with the wire.


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Offline chr1S

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #26 on: Feb 23, 2013, 11:39AM »
I prefer scotch locks over soldered splices!!!!!

Fuck solder.
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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #27 on: Feb 23, 2013, 01:21PM »
That red and black wire for pin e1 is only the power source for the injectors isn't it ?
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Offline SSS

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #28 on: Feb 23, 2013, 02:02PM »
pin e1 is the signal wire to the engine control relay.

Offline SSS

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #29 on: Feb 23, 2013, 02:04PM »
I prefer scotch locks over soldered splices!!!!!

Fuck solder.

are you serious mate? scotch locks are the fucking devil and should never be used anywhere, let alone near a car!!!!

Offline Pure_Sincerity

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #30 on: Feb 23, 2013, 02:21PM »
If it's only the signal wire to the engine control relay, than I'm bak where I started. The search for the 12 volt injector wire.
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Offline Pure_Sincerity

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #31 on: Feb 23, 2013, 02:34PM »
Unless the 12v injector wire is in that SMJ connector ? In which case, if the signal wire e1, gives off a 12 volt reading than I can tee the megasquirt 12v power wire into that, than the injectors and megasquirt would power at the same time ?

However, the 12v injector power wire does not run off a relay, which could be bad for the ms2 if its not on a relay the same as the factory ecu ?
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Offline SSS

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #32 on: Feb 23, 2013, 04:22PM »
That's the wire you said you were after before the relay......

Offline Pure_Sincerity

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #33 on: Feb 23, 2013, 04:41PM »
I need to trace down the 12v power source for the injectors and splice it into the ECU power supply (pin 38) BEFORE the engine control relay so the megasquirt and injectors power up at the exact same time.

Where the fuck is this 12v injector power source wire located ?

I need to find the 12v injector power wire and splice it into pin 38 on the stock ecu, pin 38 is the factory ecu power source which runs on a relay, I need the injectors to run the same relay so they can power on at the same time all together.
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Offline chr1S

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #34 on: Feb 24, 2013, 08:30AM »
You'd be surprised how far they range, I generally solder my splice joints because I can't be fucked buying scotch locks, but the amount of cars i've had to fix wiring and spastics - probably professional autoelectricians rape the loom with fatigued solder joints is not funny.

I don't like solder on automotive wiring unless the stress is taken away from the soldered joint, it is asking for some severe trouble in 5 years down the track - heatshrinked with PROPER milspec heatshrink is ok because this removes some of the load, but vibration about the solder joint is just fucked.

In particular this one time an engine was fucking bucking in and out of vtec randomly - made me strip a motor over it.  >:(
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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #35 on: Feb 24, 2013, 11:43AM »
I need to find the 12v injector power wire and splice it into pin 38 on the stock ecu, pin 38 is the factory ecu power source which runs on a relay, I need the injectors to run the same relay so they can power on at the same time all together.

that should still be the right wire, as on the std ecu side of the SMJ it goes back to the fuse box, fused with a 10a fuse, then goes to pin 38 on the std ecu.

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #36 on: Feb 24, 2013, 12:07PM »


injectors get their ~V from the fusible link & the ecu earths them out to activate them.
NO! it's NOT a fucking SR20!!

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #37 on: Feb 24, 2013, 01:07PM »
Sleepa is right, me and the old man just found it before I logged on.
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Offline Pure_Sincerity

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #38 on: Feb 24, 2013, 04:04PM »
Everything is wired in where it should be, but the MS2 is not receiving any power. Used a multimeter and there is 12v coming from under the relay. Ideas ?

There is also 12v going through the cable into the plug on the MS2 but my laptop is not picking up a signal from the MS2
« Last Edit: Feb 24, 2013, 04:28PM by Pure_Sincerity »
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Offline pedro666

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #39 on: Feb 25, 2013, 08:36AM »
its not a driver issue is it?
the words "race car" spelled backward still spell "race car"? 




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Offline SSS

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #40 on: Feb 25, 2013, 09:28AM »
Sleepa is right, me and the old man just found it before I logged on.

But you said you needed to connect to the 12v supply wire between the ECU and the relay? That's how I understood your question.

Everything is wired in where it should be, but the MS2 is not receiving any power. Used a multimeter and there is 12v coming from under the relay. Ideas ?

There is also 12v going through the cable into the plug on the MS2 but my laptop is not picking up a signal from the MS2

Is the MS2 grounded correctly? Or did you tee it's ground into the standard ecu's ground?

Offline Pure_Sincerity

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #41 on: Feb 25, 2013, 09:31AM »
The 5 Ms2 ground wires are direct connected to the negative side of the battery.
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Offline Pure_Sincerity

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #42 on: Feb 25, 2013, 04:32PM »
It's a bit of a mindfuck.

Alright.

Fuel pump relay is direct connected through the MS2 and when you turn the ignition on you can hear the fuel pump prime, and if the ecu wasn't working it obviously wouldn't. But megatune will not pick it up...
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Offline SleepaTi

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #43 on: Feb 25, 2013, 07:13PM »
should have just got a nistune'd ecu, direct plug & play ;)

i'm running a nistune'd S13 240sx ecu in my bluey, absolutely everything is adjustible via consult
NO! it's NOT a fucking SR20!!

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #44 on: Feb 25, 2013, 07:50PM »
Can nistune be used to go from maf to map?

I've got nistune and its awesome! But Aaron needed to use a map sensor.
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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #45 on: Feb 25, 2013, 09:55PM »
There is a MAP option running nistune.
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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #46 on: Feb 25, 2013, 10:45PM »
Lol, what a fk fight!

Sounds like my issues trying to find the headlight relays on these damn things. After a few hours of searching i just gave up and put a whole new circuit in. The wiring on these is all spacko.

The Fuel pump should not be directly powered by the ECU, the ECU should activate a relay to power fuel pump. this same relay is typically used to power the 3-4 wire EGO sensors as well.

The MS needs 12v IGN power typically should run parallel off the same main power relay as the injectors and your coil depending on setup. ALL OTHER MS ACTIVATED RELAYS should receive their +12 from this same source as the MS, or you can risk getting stray volts back through your MS when its 'powered off' when your using the standard design input/output's.

Do you have a megasquirt stimulator? (not sexual)

Are the status LED's on the mega squirt activating?

Piggybacking has made the install sound alot more complicated then it would otherwise be? Any reason you are not using the MS as a stand-alone control?

+1 on the "plugging it in and crossing your fingers" bit. If you do this is it only a matter of time till your fry the MS. then your going to have to learn real quick how to do circuit track and component repairs. You need to be familiar with the operation of a multimeter and put it to good use. It is a simple tool to learn and can be had from bunnings for $10

+1 on those bloody shitty splice connectors been the devil. Curse the man who invented them. If your soldering and looming properly you should not be getting stress failures. This is not fault of the technique but the person(s) trying to carry it out. too much heat, too little heat, wicking and contaminated joins. all avoidable problems. you cannot, however, avoid how craptastic those splices are.



« Last Edit: Feb 25, 2013, 11:18PM by crazy2287 »
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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #47 on: Feb 25, 2013, 10:57PM »
The Fuel pump should not be directly powered by the ECU, the ECU should activate a relay to power fuel pump. this same relay is typically used to power the 3-4 wire EGO sensors as well.

The MS needs 12v IGN power typically should run parallel off the same main power relay as the injectors and your coil depending on setup. ALL OTHER MS ACTIVATED RELAYS should receive their +12 from this same source as the MS, or you can risk getting stray volts back through your MS when its 'powered off' when your using the standard design input/output's.

Do you have a megasquirt simulator? (not sexual)

Are the status LED's on the mega squirt activating?

Piggybacking has made the install sound alot more complicated then it would otherwise be? Any reason you are not using the MS as a stand-alone control?

+1 on the "plugging it in and crossing your fingers" bit. If you do this is it only a matter of time till your fry the MS.

The fuel pump is still going through a relay. I had wired the fuel pump to run off the MS relay. As for the injectors, I have them running on the same power relay as the ecu as stated in the MS manuals. Also no, I do not have a MS simulator and no LEDs are not activatin on the ecu. I checked everything before I tested the MS2, put everything where it should be and run the injectors off the same power source as the ecu. From my understandings it should work right now.
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Offline crazy2287

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #48 on: Feb 25, 2013, 11:23PM »
The fuel pump is activated BY the MS. not powered by the MS's power relay. The MS should have its fuel pump output to a relay that in turn powers the fuel pump.
If i read your post correctly it sounded like the fuel pump was connected to the same relay as the megasquirt and injectors? Then this is the reason it is running, this does not indicate that the MS is booting.

You may have to go back to square 1, apply power only to the MS and check it is actually booting.


Where about are you located? anywhere near Nowra?
« Last Edit: Feb 25, 2013, 11:25PM by crazy2287 »
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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #49 on: Feb 26, 2013, 07:17AM »
There is a MAP option running nistune.

Matt does not offer a MAP conversion for MAF based ecu's mate. You are thinking of Gabe's conversion.
Funnily enough, I still haven't tried to get working yet on the black car.

Aaron, buy a one of the "JimStim" stimulators as crazy mentioned, it readily allows you to diagnose issues such as this.

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #50 on: Feb 26, 2013, 09:01AM »
What?

A friend of mine was getting MAP based nistune for his VH45, what happpened to it ?
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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #51 on: Feb 26, 2013, 09:52AM »
I couldn't find any new info on the nistune site.

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #52 on: Feb 26, 2013, 10:15AM »
Spoke to Matt Cramer again guys, he said that the led lights do not come on the ecu when when power is going trough it. Told me to download portcheck.exe from his site and run a thorough scan of all ports to find the ECU. Once found it should come up with the MS firmware etc. will be running the scan later today. If all goes well, there should be a startup video posted :p but not likely knowin my luck :/
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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #53 on: Feb 26, 2013, 12:40PM »
What?

A friend of mine was getting MAP based nistune for his VH45, what happpened to it ?

wasn't that work between nistune and gabe? and then nistune didn't want to credit/pay gabe for his work? that might have just been rumours though

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #54 on: Feb 26, 2013, 02:52PM »
Fuck sake, port check failed, computer is not picking anything up. Sent a screenshot of results back to Matt Cramer. Just need to wait another day or 2 for another response.
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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #55 on: Feb 26, 2013, 04:26PM »
Considering purchasing a stimulator, however I will wait untill Matt replies to me again. Unless you have one I could possibly borrow crazy ? I'm located in qld though, I will pay for postage here and back. Let me know.
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Offline crazy2287

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #56 on: Feb 26, 2013, 05:00PM »
I do have one and if you were closer i would let you burrow but over that distance it's a bit pointless.

I recommend you purchase a Jim Stim and assemble it. For the cost you will then always have it on call when you need it. It's not only for trouble shooting but you can run all sorts of test and use it to simulate buildups to mods and things.

Read the instructions slowly and twice over ad the stim itself can be a little confusing to set up. and it not protected SO IF YOU HOOK SOMETHING UP WRONG YOU CAN DESTROY THE STIM, THE MS OR BOTH.

Just relax, I know it must be killing you to get it running as soon as you can but take it step by step and check everything over and then over again. Understand everything you do and hook up, rather then just going "the red ones connected to the blue one"
This way you will walk away from the project with alot more knowledge and experience which will make everything a FK load easier down the track. and ultimately it will be smoother, less expensive and more rewarding.

there could be a plethora of issues stopping you from connecting to the computer. It might help to simulate a shadow return on your com port. You have to get the com cable and short 2 pins then open up a telnet window and ping a signal through the com cable and watch for the return. Then you will know the computer side is working AND what com port you are using.

I will try and find the reference for you.
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Offline crazy2287

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #57 on: Feb 26, 2013, 05:05PM »
http://www.megamanual.com/v22manual/mass.htm
To see it in the original click that link ^ and search "hyperterminal"
This is and extract of what i am talking about.


B. Connect the serial cable to your computer, but not to the MegaSquirt ECU yet. Use an alligator clip or something similar to jumper pins 2 and 3 on the loose end of the cable. This provides a loopback circuit to verify the operation of your computer and the cable without involving the MegaSquirt® hardware yet.

C. Download the HyperTerminal configuration file by clicking on the link (then go to step D.), save it to your hard drive, then click on its icon to start HyperTerminal. Note that the configuration is set for com port #1, you may have to change this. OR you can set up Hyperterminal yourself:



i. On the PC, find and run HyperTerminal (Hyperterminal is usually under Start/Programs/Accessories/Communications, but if it is not there then search for a file called “hyperterm.exe”).
If you do not have HyperTerminal installed, you can get it from Hilgraeve, who wrote the original for Microsoft Windows. HyperTerminal Private Edition (HTPE) is what you want, and it's free for personal use.

ii. When Hyperterm appears, click on the red telephone icon, and enter a save file name (anything you want, say, "megasquirt").

iii. When the "Connect To" dialog comes up, select under the "Connect Using" option the COM port to which the DB-9 cable is connected, i.e., COM1 or COM2. Do not worry about any of the other settings. Click OK.

iv. Next, a dialog window opens with baud rate, stop bits, etc. Set the values according to the table below. Note: the last one, Flow Control, is very important – be sure to set it to None. Click OK.

Baud Rate

9600 - MegaSquirt
115200 - MegaSquirt-II

Data Bits

8

Stop Bits

1

Flow Control

None

D. HyperTerminal now is up and "connected."

E. Type any character - it should be echoed back to the screen, i.e. you will see it once if you do not have local echo enabled, twice if you do. Note that the above configuration file has the local echo set to "off". If the character you typed appears on the screen then the link is working. If not, then check the cable connections and try different COM ports. You must see characters echoed correctly before you move on.
« Last Edit: Feb 26, 2013, 05:06PM by crazy2287 »
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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #58 on: Feb 27, 2013, 07:04AM »
Results for the port check came up "0 valid ports found" Matt Cramer stated that when those results are found, it is generally a fault on the PC side.

So I may try another laptop and install megatune etc again.
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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #59 on: Feb 27, 2013, 09:19AM »
Have you gone into system settings and checked to make sure that at least one COM port is switched on and configured as crazy detailed?

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #60 on: Feb 27, 2013, 09:54AM »
I'm afraid I missed that post, I will try that after work today.
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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #61 on: Feb 27, 2013, 03:47PM »
I don't quite understand the jumper pins part. Anyone explain ?
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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #62 on: Feb 27, 2013, 04:33PM »
Do this first:

right click My Computer -> System Properties -> Hardware -> Device Manager

Scroll down to Ports (COM & LPT) and expand that tab, select Communications Port (COM 1), right click and select properties.

Under General tab, make sure it say "This device is working properly", and device usage is set to "Use this device (Enable)"

Then go to Port Settings tab and set them to what Crazy said in his earlier post; no need to do the trick with the Com cable unless you don't have access to another PC (be it laptop or desktop).


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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #63 on: Feb 27, 2013, 06:32PM »
Do this first:

right click My Computer -> System Properties -> Hardware -> Device Manager

Scroll down to Ports (COM & LPT) and expand that tab, select Communications Port (COM 1), right click and select properties.

Under General tab, make sure it say "This device is working properly", and device usage is set to "Use this device (Enable)"

Then go to Port Settings tab and set them to what Crazy said in his earlier post; no need to do the trick with the Com cable unless you don't have access to another PC (be it laptop or desktop).



Cant do it your way, nothing you stated even comes close to how my laptop is setup, (windows 7) i get as far as "Device Manager" then there is nothing about ports.

Than doing it crazys way, I link pins 2 and 3 together with an alligator clip, download HTPE and get as far as the "Connect to" window, than after that, no matter what i put, wether it be COM1, COM2 or any random numbers with or without "COM" written in front of it, it always comes up saying it is unable to connect.
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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #64 on: Feb 27, 2013, 06:34PM »
Has your laptop even got a com port? Or is it all usb?

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #65 on: Feb 27, 2013, 06:40PM »
Well the cable I have for the MS is a DB9 to USB cable.

as for the COM port, I have 3 USB ports, an ethernet cable port and a port that looks like a DB9 but takes 15 pins. so probably not ?
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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #66 on: Feb 27, 2013, 07:09PM »

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #67 on: Feb 27, 2013, 07:31PM »
Once again, I don't have com ports listed in the device manager on either laptops (mine or brothers) both running windows 7.

GAAAAAY.

what the fuck megasquirt.....
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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #68 on: Feb 27, 2013, 07:50PM »
http://www.tri-plc.com/USB-RS232/drivers.htm

The downloadable program allows you to create VCP (Virtual Com Ports) via USB ports. I may give this a shot later on when I get access to the Internet again.
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Offline crazy2287

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #69 on: Feb 27, 2013, 08:13PM »
Protip, get an older laptop with a com port. You DO NOT NEED a million ghz to run megatune/tunerstudio. All your woes gone.

Or get an oldish laptop (pre 64bit) with usb only and run windows xp to maximize your compatibility. The mobo should have the rs232 ready hardware/softwear conversions for running a com port then MOST rs232 to USB adapters will work. and show up as a proper RS232 port in hardware. Support is dropping for the serial port but really that just means you can get a $100 laptop and throw it around in your car and make it a dedicated tuning laptop. Win win.

Good luck with configuring anyway!, i have not tried on any new or windows 7 laptops. I use a Dell D620 which have good specs for a com port capable laptop and can be had for less then $200.
http://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?_trksid=p5197.m570.l1313&_nkw=dell+d620&_sacat=0&_from=R40


*edit*

Just found this one, Good price, includes a 9 cell battery which should give you ok battery life. Important for when your datalogging or when you first get out there and start tuning.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Dell-Latitude-D620-Laptop-with-Docking-Station-extended-battery-/130854057335?pt=AU_comp_laptop&hash=item1e77827577&_uhb=1#ht_500wt_1414
« Last Edit: Feb 27, 2013, 08:56PM by crazy2287 »
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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #70 on: Feb 27, 2013, 08:49PM »
If its anything like Nistune, when you install the driver it installs the required software to use the USB cable (USB to com) then you'll see the com ports show up in device manager.

Have you installed anything for the cable?

Where are you living now days?
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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #71 on: Feb 27, 2013, 09:22PM »
If its anything like Nistune, when you install the driver it installs the required software to use the USB cable (USB to com) then you'll see the com ports show up in device manager.

Have you installed anything for the cable?

Where are you living now days?

I paid $50 for the cable with no CD or software when I new virtually nothing, I purchased it simply because it stated megasquirt tuning cable.

I've obtained my dads old laptop I dug out of the shed and it's windows XP. I plugged the cable in, and it comes up saying it needs software installed to use it, but It came with none. Will the driver in the link I posted earlier work ?

Also kranz, I live in forestlake, bout 15 minutes from you.
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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #72 on: Feb 27, 2013, 09:50PM »
I just bought a cheap Dell D610 with a built in serial port, almost as cheap the the cable/USB to serial adaptor.
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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #73 on: Feb 27, 2013, 11:16PM »
No driver --> No Com Port --> No Workie!

You need to find software for your cable.
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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #74 on: Feb 28, 2013, 06:05AM »
Should be a generic USB to Serial driver.

edit: holy crap, look what google showed me in less than 30 secs: http://www.msextra.com/doc/ms2extra/serial_setup.html

What cable is it? There are drivers here, but they may not work if it's not one of their cables: http://www.symtechlabs.com/support/knowledgebase/megasquirt:usb-serial_adapter_connectivity

Try this driver here too: http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/usb-to-serial-adapter-works-with-megatune-p-67.html


Aaron, on a serious note, everyone is happy to help, but you CANNOT feed us tiny bits of info and expect us to work it all out for you. Screen shots and as much detailed info helps immensely. Vaguely worded posts do not.
If you don't know something, don't be scared to admit it, no one is going to bag you out for it.
If you had of said from the outset that you didn't know anything about configuring com ports, you probably would have had the engine started already without this backwards and forwards with snippits of info.

Anyway, get off the web and get the thing started already.
« Last Edit: Feb 28, 2013, 06:17AM by SSS »

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #75 on: Feb 28, 2013, 08:24AM »
I demand vids, of idle and WOT, HD.
Don't let the opinions of the average man sway you. Dream, and he thinks you're crazy. Succeed, and he thinks you're lucky. Acquire wealth, and he thinks you're greedy. Pay no attention. He simply doesn't understand.

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #76 on: Feb 28, 2013, 09:05AM »
Anyway, get off the web and get the thing started already.

Yes sir.

I demand vids, of idle and WOT, HD.

Vids yes, idle yes, WOT no. This will be an open header start, need to get the secondaries extended to fit the primaries. WOT will come later after a final tune with the wideband etcx
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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #77 on: Feb 28, 2013, 01:43PM »
a bit slow but +1 for windows xp for tuning

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #78 on: Mar 2, 2013, 03:59PM »
EVERYTHING IS A SUCCESS SO FAR.

downloaded the proper device driver for the tuning cable, chaged the properties over etc in device manager, hooked up the laptop to the ecu as a Successful connection all good to go, the tables were reading the dwell settings, TPS and MAP sensor.

BUT than this pops up



Ideas ? need a new version of megatune ?
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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #79 on: Mar 2, 2013, 04:56PM »
Research states that megatune is now obsolete for any Megasquirt firmware newer than V2.2 and since mine is the V3.0 extra it won't work. I have to use TunerStudioMS but I do not have a basemap that TunerStudioMS will load.... I may have to set everything from scratch.
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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #80 on: Mar 2, 2013, 05:50PM »
You should be able to import the megatune map, or it should be available in a tunerstudio format.

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #81 on: Mar 2, 2013, 06:04PM »

Offline Pure_Sincerity

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #82 on: Mar 2, 2013, 06:18PM »
Tried that ages ago, only megatune reads it a it downloads in some Internet format.

Can you quickly check this for me ? I don't have net till I go back to my parents tomorrow. http://www.diyautotune.com/diypnp/apps/j64/usdm-nissan-240sx-8990-ka24-mt.html

Link is down the bottom of the page.
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Offline crazy2287

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #83 on: Mar 2, 2013, 08:34PM »
I dont get it? what are we checking?

And that is correct. to run the newest firmwares you need tuner studio. All the tables should import directly into tuner studio. The only time they will not is if the tables previous format/size does not match.

Open your .MSQ file offline in megatune and take some screenshots of the spark and fuel tables, paste into paint and save. use these for reference inside tunerstudio. While you there also open the fuel table/spark table window and go to file - export table. and save each table.

download tuner studio install and open and configure it to the ver of firmware your MS is running. the auto detect feature should work, if it does not check you baud settings are correct. MS2 and MS1 use different baud speeds and your serial will need to be configured to suit.

Once it is logged into the megasquirt try importing the tables you saved earlier. If this does not work you will have to manually import them. just split the screen shot of the table to one side of the screen and the tuner studio window on the other and start typing and using tab to go through the fields. Wont take long.
MAKE SURE YOUR BIN ENTRIES LINE UP, I'e the data in the column and row that dictates the map area.

Double and tripple check all settings. Especially ignition settings, dwell. Focus on getting a good injector dead time and REQ fuel value. Make sure EGO correction is OFF. Make sure rev limits are high up out of the way and overrun is disabled. Make sure your timing is Spot on the required base setting, Ie at the distributor (it's 15degrees for the KA's?) and dont push through engine knock, if you hear it, back off, fix it and then continue. Rule of thumb, when tuning spark, use 95 octain, increase 2 degrees at a time and as soon as you hear engine knock, back off 3 degrees. (once done tuning run 98octain and you should have plenty of buffer to avoid knock. The most power is not always made on the edge of detonation, the sweet spot is usually a few degrees before that. If you are not running enough timeing your exhaust headers will heat up very very hot and start burning shit in the engine bay, watch out for that.
You want all your timing in a soon as possible in the rpm range. Once you hit about 3000-4000rpm flat line the rest of your bins Ie carry the same value of the last tuned bin across all the remaining bins to the right. You can better and more safely tune this high rpm area on a dyno with a good set of knock ears as knocking up there can not always be easily heard.
Fuel maps will go up as you'd expect, but as you reach it's upper rpm it will typically taper down. This is normal. For safety don't go leaner at WOT, then 12.5:1 until you have the car on a dyno.
Strap yourself down because you are going to be in the driver seat idling and tapping the accelerator for a while before starting to drive. Don't go WOT straight away or you'll have an engine meltdown.
I strongly recommend you get a passenger to help you, sit them in the passenger seat and have them make live entries into the squirt as you tune.

Do not worry about warm-up, cranking and acceleration enrichment's at this stage except to get it started as they base themselves off the main fuel map, changing the fuel map changes ALL these corrections so you will just have to do them again if your not done building the fuel map.

If you want to leave a couple of rows, columns and bins at the ends of your able (beyond the vehicles limits) blank. Once you diagnose areas of the map that require more resolution you can shift these blank bins down and fill in the gaps.
« Last Edit: Mar 2, 2013, 08:47PM by crazy2287 »
I drive like i screw..... illegally =D... wait O.o WHAT?? O.O

Offline Pure_Sincerity

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #84 on: Mar 3, 2013, 12:07AM »
Double and tripple check all settings. Especially ignition settings, dwell. Focus on getting a good injector dead time and REQ fuel value. Make sure EGO correction is OFF. Make sure rev limits are high up out of the way and overrun is disabled. Make sure your timing is Spot on the required base setting, Ie at the distributor (it's 15degrees for the KA's?) and dont push through engine knock, if you hear it, back off, fix it and then continue. Rule of thumb, when tuning spark, use 95 octain, increase 2 degrees at a time and as soon as you hear engine knock, back off 3 degrees. (once done tuning run 98octain and you should have plenty of buffer to avoid knock.

How do you increase the spark 2 degrees at a time ? Just click every box and up the number 2 degrees ? Lol this really isn't for me but I'm learning. As for fuel, I have 98 in the car now...

Went into the fuel calculator and set it to the following:
Engine displacement - 2480cc
No. Of cylinders - 4
Injector flow - 440cc
Air fuel ratio - 14.7 (already set at that)

Than standard injection window
Control algorithm - Alpha-N
Squirts per cycle - 2 (already pre set, should I change it ?)
Engine stroke - Four stroke
No. Of cylinders - 4
Injector port type - (should it be port injection or throttle body ?)
No. Of injectors - 4
Engine type - (even fire or odd fire ?)
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Offline SSS

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #85 on: Mar 3, 2013, 07:05AM »
Squirts per cycle should be 1, afaik, 2 squirts per cycle is for batch injection, not sequential like a KA.
Injection type should be port.
Fire order should be even.

Offline crazy2287

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #86 on: Mar 3, 2013, 10:47AM »
Is he/are you running full sequential or batch?
I have had not experience running full sequential.

You will only increase a row at a time. you will rough in the spark map while you are tuning fuel. Once you are happy with fuel to the rpm you are tuning, for example 0-4000, Start tuning the spark. As you have for fuel, make sure ALL spark table corrections are turned off when tuning. ambient, engine and intake air temp will make changes on how much timing you can run so take note of the temperatures while your tuning as they will help you extrapolate temperature based spark corrections later on.

Note: This is all at Wide open throttle/full noise
Going back to the tuning bit, your most critical area for spark is wide open throttle. On an NA motor (yourse) this will be at MAP (manifold air pressure) values of 90 to 100 centibar (= 100kpa = 1 bar. The values in the left column of bin values.) Lets say your top 3 bins are 90 - 95 - 100.
I would start with the 90 row been 1 degree LESS then the 95 row. and the 100 row been 2 degree less then that. Every engine is different and the zones of efficiency given by the cam will dictate the pattern that will emerge in the table. You say at 2000rpm you might be up to about 20 degrees. So you bins will be:
90kpa @ 2000rpm = 23
95kpa @ 2000rpm = 22
100kpa @ 2000rpm = 20

You will loose this pattern as you get the tune in. But to stat with. You will do a pull. From 500rpm, in top gear or 4th. plant your foot to the floor and listen carefully for engine knock. IF YOU DO NOT HEAR A KNOCK continue to Pull all the way to 4000rpm.
(If you hear a knock, diagnose exactly were on the table it occurred. decrease this value, and all the following locations by 3º. You should not be hearing knock this early or you are starting with your spark map to aggressive. This is the only time you will reduce all following locations. pull your whole map back and start afresh.)
When you do a pull you need to load the engine as much as you can, Finding a STEEP hill is important. Especially in the high RPM range, so you can use lower gears to get the high rpm without exceeding the speed limit.
Back off and use the cursor to grab and highlight the top 3 rows (90 - 95 - 100) from 500rpm to 4000 and use the sum field, top right of the window. put in 2. and hit the "+" and every highlighted field will increase by 2. (this is megatune, tuner studio might be different)

Do another pull.
Do this a few times and you will eventually hear engine knock. Diagnose that one location on the table and reduce it by 3. Note that location and do not change it again. Do another pull. reduce any locations that knock and do not touch them again. once you have completed a pull without knock, all the bins that DID NOT knock and need reducing, you can increase by 2. The bins that you have already had to reduce, do not touch them.

Once you have done this to the majority of the map you will start to see a pattern. It might rise quickly to 25 degrees by 2400rpm, then drop back to 21 degrees till 3000rpm then rise again till 33 degrees.

Make sure you frequently save changes.

Realise that the computer extrapolates the advance to 0.1 of a degree, based on a linear point between 4 map locations. So moving a single value, will effect readings given by all 8 locations around it.

it is for this reason that you may be able to get more spark, you can choose to do this step. make a backup of your current table. Increase all the bins from 1000-4000 by 2 degrees. And do a pull. repeat the process as above. reduce those values that cause knock by 3.
If you get knock right though, constantly then reload the table you just saved, burn and leave it at that. get the value of the top 3 locations at 4000rpm, and carry them to the right. Your WOT is now set until you get on a dyno.

You can increase advancement for locations below 90kpa by 2's or 3's and you should be running 30-40 degrees by 50kpa above 2500rpm. continue the pattern of the WOT locations across.
From 50kpa, carry each rows 50kpa value down. so all locations below 50kpa will have the same value as the location above it. extending to the bottom of the table.

As you get more experience you will start molding the table more. but this will give you good power and cruise areas fairly quickly.

Once this and fuel is done you can worry about fixing the modifiers.
The one you will probably notice the most is acceleration enrichment. I always have it disabled when tuning unless the hesitation is too bad to ignore.
I drive like i screw..... illegally =D... wait O.o WHAT?? O.O

Offline Pure_Sincerity

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #87 on: Mar 3, 2013, 02:11PM »
Base tune is all loaded into the controller and everything is sweet, but when i go to start the car, its kicking over, my FPR is reading 30psi (2bar) but doesnt start. After letting go of the key, this message shows up.



And this is how my stuff is set out atm.


and DIY states this:
tudio settings (Sequential coil on plug and / or sequential fuel)
•Settings under Basic Setup -> Tach Input / Ignition Settings:◦Spark mode: Toothed Wheel
◦Ignition input capture: Falling Edge
◦Spark output will depend on what output setup you're using. BIP373s and QuadSparks both use Going High / Inverted. Getting this setting wrong can damage the ignition module and/or coils. If the ignition module or coils get hot with the key on and the engine off, turn the key off immediately and select the opposite output setting.

•Settings under Basic Setup -> Tach Input / Ignition Settings:◦Trigger wheel arrangement: Dual wheel with missing tooth
◦Trigger wheel teeth: 12
◦Missing Teeth: 1
◦Tooth #1 angle: 345 (This varies slightly between individual engines. Check with a timing light and adjust as needed.)
◦Wheel speed: Crank wheel
◦Second trigger active on: Rising edge

how do you power cycle the Megasquirt ?

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Offline SSS

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #88 on: Mar 3, 2013, 02:18PM »
Power cycle is just switching it off then back on.

You don't have coil on plug for starters, it should be single coil.

What trigger wheel did you end up using in the distributor again?

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #89 on: Mar 3, 2013, 02:23PM »
Power cycle is just switching it off then back on.

You don't have coil on plug for starters, it should be single coil.

What trigger wheel did you end up using in the distributor again?

http://www.diyautotune.com/tech_articles/using_diyautotune_nissan_trigger_discs.htm

using that same trigger dic, ill change this over and try again.
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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #90 on: Mar 3, 2013, 03:08PM »
Changed the settings and all good now, cept I'm getting no spark from the coil to the dizzy.

I have the ignition output (pin 36 MS) direct connected to the power transistor (pin 1 oem ecu) but than going here http://www.diyautotune.com/tech_articles/how_to_megasquirt_your_nissan_240sx.htm it states that MS2 pin 36 has to go directly to the ignition coil which is pin 36 on the oem ecu.

But SSS stated that if the power transistor isn't hooked up to the MS2 than I can't use the timing maps, however there isn't an input for the power transistor ? So if I did directly hook up the ignition coil and left the power transistor to the stock ecu, can I use the MS2 maps or not ?
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Offline Pure_Sincerity

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #91 on: Mar 3, 2013, 03:37PM »


This states that the IGN output on the MS2 HAS to go to the negative side of the coil. Pin number 3 on the factory ecu goes through the resistor & condensor than to the coil AND power transistor. Whilst the power from the ignition switch runs to the positive side of the coil and back to pin 36 on the factory ecu.
So now i must hook the power transistor back to the factory ecu (pin 1) and direct connect pin 3 in its place (MS2 IGN Output pin 36)
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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #92 on: Mar 3, 2013, 04:12PM »
re wired it to the same as my last post, factory ecu pin 3 (negative side of coil) to MS2 PIN 36 as per the diagram, but still getting no spark.
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Offline SSS

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #93 on: Mar 3, 2013, 06:08PM »
Pin 36 on the MS2 is a coil driver, so you will not need the Power Transistor (which is just a shit OEM name for coil driver).

You should be able to disconnect the Power Transistor completely IF the MS2 is wired via Pin 36 directly to the coil, as per the diagram above.


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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #94 on: Mar 3, 2013, 06:11PM »
Quote
Using the MS-II PCBv3 ECU

Build the ECU up to trigger from the Hall/Optical Input (all of our MS230-C units are by default configured this way).
The only change is to enable the IGBT High Current Ignition Coil Driver Circuit to directly drive the coil.
Remove the jumper from JS10 to IGN (if exists)
Jumper IGBTIN to JS10
Jumper IGBTOUT to IGN
(This will enable the BIP373 Ignition Coil Driver)

That's it!

Yours is a v3 MS2 correct? Have you done this if so?

Offline Pure_Sincerity

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #95 on: Mar 3, 2013, 06:14PM »
Pin 36 on the MS2 is a coil driver, so you will not need the Power Transistor (which is just a shit OEM name for coil driver).

You should be able to disconnect the Power Transistor completely IF the MS2 is wired via Pin 36 directly to the coil, as per the diagram above.



I have it direct connected to the negative side of the coil the same as the diagram.

As for the other part, no I havnt done so because I do not understand the Jumper shit.
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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #96 on: Mar 3, 2013, 06:55PM »
There should be pins on the actual circuit board called "IGBTIN", "JS10", "IGBTOUT" and "IGN"

They need to be connected on the circuit board as described above to enable the on board coil driver. I can't find a pic to show it, can you weigh in here Crazy? You know more about this than i do!

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #97 on: Mar 3, 2013, 07:12PM »
You would think they would do this shit before selling the actual product wouldn't you...
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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #98 on: Mar 3, 2013, 07:21PM »
http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/Ignition.htm

IT WANTS ME TO SOLDER ON A CIRCUIT BOARD ??!!!??

geeeeet fuccccccked.
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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #99 on: Mar 3, 2013, 08:02PM »
Take the pcb out of the case first and check, it may have already been done.

They do it this way to give flexibility for different setups, not everyone retains single coil / distributor....I won't be, I'll be going to Coil On Plug which will only use the CAS sensor part of the distributor.

Offline crazy2287

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #100 on: Mar 3, 2013, 08:30PM »
Dude, your going to have to take a few steps back and configure the MS to work on your engine properly.

Stop trying to take shortcuts, MS is not a plug in and go. Read the manuals and texts available to you. It might take you a couple of days but you will be better off in the long run. You will understand what you are doing and probably have it done by now.

Less haste more speed.

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Offline Pure_Sincerity

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #101 on: Mar 3, 2013, 09:22PM »
Dude, your going to have to take a few steps back and configure the MS to work on your engine properly.

Stop trying to take shortcuts, MS is not a plug in and go. Read the manuals and texts available to you. It might take you a couple of days but you will be better off in the long run. You will understand what you are doing and probably have it done by now.

Less haste more speed.



Can't configure it to run on the engine if I havnt done the jumpers to run the single coil ?

But if this can be left alone but I have to run a different ignition setup, why is available ? SSS you mentioned the coil on plug setup, what's involved with that ? I'll put up a pic of the PCB.

EDIT:

thats the PCB in my version of the MS2 with the MSextra attachment.

I havnt short cutted anything, ive been doing this to the best of my knowlege and obviously could not have been done without help. Researching is a little bit hard when you only have access with your mobile phone because you miss alot of things when zooming in and out.

But yes, these jumpers have to be solderd ? or are there solderless jumpers available on the market that are just plug and play ?

That or what are the other options for igniton ?
« Last Edit: Mar 3, 2013, 09:31PM by Pure_Sincerity »
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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #102 on: Mar 3, 2013, 10:12PM »
This is some good info, perhaps the way to go ?
Quote
Wiring the Coil to the High Current Driver

To use the high current driver (with the VB921 dedicated coil driver IC), you must install the high current ignition driver circuit at step#65 of the assembly of your V3 main board.

Make sure you did not install R57. If you have installed it, remove it (or cut one lead to disable it). R57 is located about 1 inch (25mm) from the DB37, and 1 inch (25mm) from the heat sink. R57 interferes with the signal from the processor to the VB921, so it must be removed, or else your dwell and timing will be wrong.

If you have connected the high current driver, you installed jumpers:

IGBTIN (near the heat sink side of the DB37 on the bottom of the board) to JS10 (under the 40-pin CPU socket on the bottom of the PCB)
IGBTOUT to IGN - near the Heat sink end of the DB37 on the bottom of the PCB (this brings the ignition control signal out on DB37 pin #36)
Wiring the high current circuit to the coil is very easy. You need to supply a switched 12 Volt supply to one side of the coil, to the positive (+) terminal. Use the fuel pump relay for this source, as the coil will then not be powered during a stall, etc. Put a 10 Amp fuse in this wire. The other terminal (negative (-)) is wired to pin 36 of the MegaSquirt® DB37 (this connects to the relay board terminal S5, if you are using the relay board).

Quote
You need to set the parameters in MegaTune. Set:

Coil Charging Scheme to 'standard coil charge',
Spark Output to 'going high (inverted)' up to 2.886 code / 'High-to-Low' for 3.1+ code.
Finally, you need to set the dwell parameters to match your coil. Generally, you want to set this as low as possible, while still not creating any misfires. Typical dwell settings are 2.5 to 3.5 milliseconds. Generally people should start with about 3.0 to 3.1 milliseconds, and adjust from there. Lower it if there are no misfires, raise it until they are gone.
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Offline SSS

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #103 on: Mar 4, 2013, 07:19AM »
Can't configure it to run on the engine if I havnt done the jumpers to run the single coil ?

But if this can be left alone but I have to run a different ignition setup, why is available ? SSS you mentioned the coil on plug setup, what's involved with that ? I'll put up a pic of the PCB.

EDIT:

thats the PCB in my version of the MS2 with the MSextra attachment.

I havnt short cutted anything, ive been doing this to the best of my knowlege and obviously could not have been done without help. Researching is a little bit hard when you only have access with your mobile phone because you miss alot of things when zooming in and out.

But yes, these jumpers have to be solderd ? or are there solderless jumpers available on the market that are just plug and play ?

That or what are the other options for igniton ?

Can't see anything in that pic.

No offense, but Coil On Plug is WAY out of your league at the moment.
It will give you precisely zero gains or advantages, but four times the problems.

Stick with the single coil, get it working, then you can upgrade to a wasted spark setup later IF you really need to.

Quote
IGBTIN (near the heat sink side of the DB37 on the bottom of the board) to JS10 (under the 40-pin CPU socket on the bottom of the PCB)
IGBTOUT to IGN - near the Heat sink end of the DB37 on the bottom of the PCB (this brings the ignition control signal out on DB37 pin #36)
Wiring the high current circuit to the coil is very easy. You need to supply a switched 12 Volt supply to one side of the coil, to the positive (+) terminal. Use the fuel pump relay for this source, as the coil will then not be powered during a stall, etc. Put a 10 Amp fuse in this wire. The other terminal (negative (-)) is wired to pin 36 of the MegaSquirt® DB37 (this connects to the relay board terminal S5, if you are using the relay board).

I did find that too, it should help.

Ignore the rest which referes to the VB921 coil driver, as yours probably has the updated BIP373 Bosch coil driver.

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #104 on: Mar 4, 2013, 09:34AM »
Can't see anything in that pic.

No offense, but Coil On Plug is WAY out of your league at the moment.
It will give you precisely zero gains or advantages, but four times the problems.

Stick with the single coil, get it working, then you can upgrade to a wasted spark setup later IF you really need to.

No offence taken man, all this computer shit is out of my league, but I'm learning, getting pissed off but I'm getting there.

But is it possible to do the jumpers and get it to run without wiring the high current circuit to the coil ? It will be easy enough but I'm just wandering ?
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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #105 on: Mar 4, 2013, 11:53AM »
But is it possible to do the jumpers and get it to run without wiring the high current circuit to the coil ? It will be easy enough but I'm just wandering ?

Do you want the MS2 driving the coil directly, or do you want to keep the Power Transistor driving the coil?

If you want the MS2 driving the coil directly, open the case and jumper the connections as described to get Pin 36 to drive the coil.

If you don't want to do any of that, you need to open the case anyway and confirm that Pin 36 is configured to drive an external coil driver....i.e. the Power Transistor.

I am guessing that your MS2 is configured to drive an external coil driver; DO NOT ASSUME THIS!!!!!!!! You need to check yourself.

Be very careful and heed the warnings regarding incorrect settings when using the Power Transistor to drive the coil; if you get them wrong you can fry it.
« Last Edit: Mar 4, 2013, 12:09PM by SSS »

Offline Pure_Sincerity

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #106 on: Mar 4, 2013, 04:16PM »
If I can get away with not doing the jumpers than I will run the external coil driver (power transistor)

I tried checking the ecu, but I can't get the bottom half of the case off, which has the DB37 connector shown without thinking I'm going to break it.

So I emailed Cramer this:

Quote
Hey mate, are your pre built MS2 extra Ecus built to drive an external coil/power transistor from pin 36 ? Because I don't really want to install jumpers to drive the coil directly. What can I do ? ATM I have pin 36 direct connected to the negative side of my ignition coil as stated on your site in the "how to megasquirt you 240sx" section but I am getting no spark from the coil.

I'll update when he replies.
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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #107 on: Mar 5, 2013, 07:35AM »
Quote
Normally, our prebuilt MS2s are set up for a 5 volt logic level spark output on pin 36, not with a high current output. They can be ordered otherwise, but you'd have to special order them that way. You could use it to drive the Nissan power transistor.

So according to that last message from Cramer, I can use pin 36 to drive the power transistor, but why wouldn't mine work ? What would the appropriate settings be to run the transistor ? And what wire from the factory ecu would I hook up ?

There are only 3 wires that go to the power transistor:
1: ignition signal input 0.3-0.6v
3: ignition reference voltage 9-12v
6: earth.

None of them come close to the 5v output the megasquirt puts out..
« Last Edit: Mar 5, 2013, 07:56AM by Pure_Sincerity »
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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #108 on: Mar 5, 2013, 08:08AM »


This states that the IGN output on the MS2 HAS to go to the negative side of the coil. Pin number 3 on the factory ecu goes through the resistor & condensor than to the coil AND power transistor. Whilst the power from the ignition switch runs to the positive side of the coil and back to pin 36 on the factory ecu.
So now i must hook the power transistor back to the factory ecu (pin 1) and direct connect pin 3 in its place (MS2 IGN Output pin 36)

Quoting this from earlier on, to continue on from my previous post, after you connect factory pin 3 (negative side of coil) to MS2 pin 36 it states the ignition settings must be set to inverted.
Quote
On the 'Spark' menu choose 'Spark Settings' and set 'Spark Output Inverted' to YES.  It is critical to get the Spark Output Inverted setting correct, as setting this wrong can result in damage to the BIP373. Dwell settings will depend on the coil used.  A typical rule of thumb is to back off the dwell until you can just barely detect a misfire under lean cruising conditions, then add 0.2 ms of dwell time.

So perhaps the dwell time in my base map I downloaded was set to high preventing the car from starting ?
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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #109 on: Mar 5, 2013, 12:10PM »
If you physically touch the distributor end of the lead from the coil to the strut tower and have zero spark when cranking, dwell shouldn't be your issue.

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #110 on: Mar 5, 2013, 12:16PM »
If you physically touch the distributor end of the lead from the coil to the strut tower and have zero spark when cranking, dwell shouldn't be your issue.

That's what we tried, but also, those steps I posted before are for doing the jumper setup I just realized.

But this ecu DOES cater for controlling the external coil (transistor) but I just need to work out how to hook it up. The ecu puts out only 5V from the ignition output but the transistor needs 9-12v....
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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #111 on: Mar 5, 2013, 01:33PM »
So according to that last message from Cramer, I can use pin 36 to drive the power transistor, but why wouldn't mine work ? What would the appropriate settings be to run the transistor ? And what wire from the factory ecu would I hook up ?

There are only 3 wires that go to the power transistor:
1: ignition signal input 0.3-0.6v
3: ignition reference voltage 9-12v
6: earth.

None of them come close to the 5v output the megasquirt puts out..

The ignition signal input TO the Power Transistor will be 0-5V; i.e. when the signal to the Power Transistor is at 0V (or near to 0V), the Power Transistor knows not to discharge the coil.
When the Power Transistor receives a 5v input, it knows to discharge the coil.

I THINK this is how it is triggered. It could be the opposite way, i.e 0V to trigger, 5V not to trigger.

The ignition signal input is a square wave, so it can only be 0V (or near to it) or 5V (or near to it). If it is anything in between, the signal is noisy and it probably won't discharge spark from the coil.

The Ignition Reference of 9-12V and the Earth connection are only used to provide power / ground to the Power Transistor / Ignition Coil.

As for settings, I have NO idea on how to trigger the Power Transistor without frying it.

This you will need to search, plenty of people have done KA24's. Or just do the mods to drive the negative side of the coil directly from the MS2.

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #112 on: Mar 6, 2013, 09:33AM »
Emailed Cramer back and I got this in return:

Quote
Wire the ignition signal input on the power transistor to MegaSquirt pin 36. I am pretty certain the values they give are an average, not a peak voltage.

So that's back to the way I had it, factory pin 1.. But wouldn't start...
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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #113 on: Mar 6, 2013, 09:50AM »
Can you give us a better photo of the boards so we can see if there is jumpers already in place that you could use.
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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #114 on: Mar 6, 2013, 10:11AM »
Can you give us a better photo of the boards so we can see if there is jumpers already in place that you could use.

There would not be done mate, they only install jumpers if you request them upon purchase, which I did not.

I have a feeling I just have the settings wrong and potentially fried the coil or transistor, so I may find another, replace and try new settings. I'll post another screenshot of the ignition settings today.
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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #115 on: Mar 6, 2013, 10:33AM »
If you want this fixed, PM Jono from the forums, he will be able to modify the ecu if needed or check your wiring.

His prices will be better than most auto electricians and his work will be better also.
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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #116 on: Mar 6, 2013, 10:34AM »
Also, is that picture you posted early of your ecu? The daughter board has jumpers installed.
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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #117 on: Mar 6, 2013, 11:04AM »
But they go from the spare ports to the ms extra board, they wouldn't be the jumpers needed to modify the ignition output. Plus they aren't labeled JS10 etc
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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #118 on: Mar 6, 2013, 11:07AM »
I bet you have electrical noise on the wire going to the Power Transistor.

This wire is shielded from the ecu to the power transistor, and if the shielding is comprimised or not grounded correctly, it will develop noise which means the Power Transistor will not trigger, therefore no spark will be generated by the coil.

Trust me, I know.

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #119 on: Mar 6, 2013, 11:15AM »
I bet you have electrical noise on the wire going to the Power Transistor.

This wire is shielded from the ecu to the power transistor, and if the shielding is comprimised or not grounded correctly, it will develop noise which means the Power Transistor will not trigger, therefore no spark will be generated by the coil.

I will have to check it out later on, I'll be back at the car today to do more work, I'll wire the transistor back to the megasquirt and check for the noise. Than go back over my settings, post screen shots on here for feedback on settings etc, I'll keep you guys posted,
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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #120 on: Mar 7, 2013, 08:02AM »
Quote
Same as for direct coil control: Set output to going high / inverted, around 3 ms dwell as a starting point and adjust from there.

Those are the settings required, quoted from Cramer to run a power transistor to fire the coil. I will be trying this again today, and if it doesn't work I'll be changing the transistor over to another.
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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #121 on: Mar 7, 2013, 08:55AM »
I have been Quiet as this have gotten very specific to the car.

Ignition problems are serious here. Taking a punt can mean you'll be replaceing coils and fuses before you know it.

You say the extra bord???? I was under the impression the mse was for v3 processors but youurs I've a v2 processor on a v3 bord.

Your coil needs an igniter. These are either built into the coil or external or in the ecu. Internal coils can use a different trigger due to the way ms works.

I run a coil with built in igniter. (The igniter is what you have been calling the power transister) this requires the invert option in spark settings to be set to "no"

The invert option controls the trigger.. either going high or going low. The reason this happens is when you create the 5v logic signal through the primary transister in the ms it produces a square was signal of one polarity. When you pass it through an external ignighter it reverses the polarity.

If you have this setting wrong then a dutycycle of 20% (this is controled as a factor of dwell and rpm) will invert. You think your coil is working 20% but its inverted so it is working 80%. This can destroy the coil in as little as 5 seconds.

 I might expand on this when I'm home later and off the mobile phone.
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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #122 on: Mar 7, 2013, 09:50AM »
Ho, shit this forum works at work.

As long as the megasquirt is controlling the coil you will be able to use spark maps.

Have you tested your coil works?  Test your coil lead first with a multi meter. It should be less then 1kohm.
Pull the coil lead off the dizzy and throw a spark plug on it (test the spark plug for continuity first) and hold the plug to ground so it can spark. put a +12v on the coil positive and touch a grounded wire for a split second on the coils neg. It should spark, if it does not start with very quick touches and increase the duration till your touching for say...... 2 seconds. If you have a ammeter (multimeter with 10 amp measurement) you can put this in the circuit. From battery, to ammeter positive. ammeter neg to coils positive. watch the ammeter as you do this. Typical measured energy output for a coil is at 7amps. If the circuit is flowing 7 amps before you release the wire off the neg terminal, and you STILL get no spark. then your coil is rooted.


If you coil tests fine. 
Check and double check your ign signal is setup how you think it should be.
Once you are happy, Get someone to sit in the car. Turn the ign on for 5 seconds and off. wait 10 seconds and Feel the coil. Is it hot? No? Turn ign on and wait for 10 seconds and turn off. wait another 10. is it hot?

Not turn ign on, with the plug still in the coil lead and held to ground. (you should have less then 1kohm between the end of the spark lead, through the lead and the spark plug, to the ELECTRODE on the plug (the pointy bit on the end of the plug in the middle, the end that goes in the engine)
Crank and look for spark. Only crank for 3-5 seconds max! Wait for 10 seocnds and check if coil is HOT!
If you get no spark, check your coil has +12V on the coil positive when ign is on.

If you get spark but it is VERY POWERFUL DO NOT YELL AWESOME and install the plugs and try to run the car. It wont work. ASK ME HOW I KNOW!
Switch the invert function in megasquirt. Whatever is the opposite of what it was just set to.

Crank again. Is the spark alot more mellow now? or is it even BRIGHTER?

If the bark is VERY BRIGHT AND AGRESSIVE then you likely have the invert function set wrong and the coil is over driving. Make sure your cranking dwell is set to about 3ms. before doing any of this testing. (you will up this later)

Measure your coil positive voltage against battery earth WHILE CRANKING you should have at least 10V here. If not make sure your battery is FULLY CHARGED and check again. If you still dont, HOTWIRE directly from the battery positive and try again.

As a furthur check you can check for current through the coil during crank. Hook the ammeter up like we did as descrived above. When cranking you will be looking for about 7A passing though the coil. If this is happening you should definetly be seeing spark. BE CAREFUL, some coils can draw 20A if the ign settings are incorrectly configured and this is enough current to fry most multimeters!


More on the ingiter.
If you have ATTEMPTED to drive your coil via the 5v logic output and your coil IS NOT the type with biult in igniter, you have likely fryed your 5v logic level transister on the MS main bord.
This is usualy visable on inspection as the transister will disintegrate from the current if something else on the bord does not fail first. the small transister that develops the logic signal can take no more then 500mA and this would be exceeded almost instantaniously if you are directly driving the coil with it.

The igniter setup can usually take 20+ amps (or 20, 000mA) and will properly drive a coil.
The igniter setup CAN drive a coil with built in igniter but the signal will be as described above, inverted by the intermediate igniter driver. or the 'redundant one' if you rather.
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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #123 on: Mar 7, 2013, 10:31AM »
Some of that certainly was not what I wanted to hear, keep you's updated.
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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #124 on: Mar 7, 2013, 12:29PM »
i don't know if anyone here has heard of a site called google or not, but when i type into google "ka24e wiring ms2 ignition" the first 10 or so results that come up says that for some reason the ms2 doesn't work for some reason with the ka24 coil and most have bought things like msd blaster coils and the like as a solution. but then if i search for "ka24e megasquirt ignition" i get different results that have already been posted in the thread.

just keep in mind though, i haven't actually ready the thread so maybe this has been covered.. i just see words, check this for me, words, serial cable, words, something something.

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #125 on: Mar 7, 2013, 03:50PM »
Who wants a free shitbox ?
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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #126 on: Mar 7, 2013, 04:31PM »
i already have one..



but i'll stop posting now. i'm not being particularly helpful.

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #127 on: Mar 7, 2013, 05:01PM »
Rubbish. It's all parts and electronics is all pipes. What could do to prevent one from using a mega squirt to control that coil? The coils specifics simply dictate the setup required in mega squirt to control it. and all coils that i know of as imply 2 'coils' of copper around a core encased in oil or epoxy.

But you do bring up an interesting point, You may be able to choose a different coil, expecially if you have burned the one you have. There are some good ones by Bosch such as the MEC723 that can punch out a whopping 120mj of energy with a 7A charge current. Or the IGN-1a race coil with built in igniter with similar power levels but much lower required Dwell's.
Limiting factors will be duty cycles, there is alot to think about before slapping any coil on there but i have made an easy calculator in an excel spreadsheet that i use to figure out duty cycle based on RPM, Dwell and cylinders.

If anyone ever wants a copy of it just note me and i'll email you the calculator.

Dude, download Skype onto your mobile phone and add me as a contact. We can then communicate in real time and get this shit sorted out quicker. This has been going on for way too long.
Then you can ask specific questions rather then me trying to cover every aspect of a scenario in a message board post, it's just painful and can get confusing if its not already TL;DR.


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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #128 on: Mar 7, 2013, 05:04PM »
I never did get a proper dizzy plug, I just bodged it up for the meantime to get the car started, perhaps it's so bodge that the car thinks I'm a [language filter smackdown]got and its preventing spark because it knows the dizzy isn't done right ?

Fuck it ill just buy the damn plug for $30 -_-

Also went to the wreckers and taxed 6 power transistors lol.

I have more pics of the ecu dismantled I'll throw up tonight, I removed the extra board to look for the JS10 ports etc.

Also cheers for the help crazy, I'll get back onto you about that tonight.
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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #129 on: Mar 7, 2013, 05:36PM »
JS10 port is most likely going to be an unoccupied component termination hole on the PCB. there will be many of them. On the v2.2 they were close to the CPU but i think they moved to the proto area on the v3's (Have not worked on a v3 for a while) There will be js1, js2, js3 ect ect and they are simply breakout locations to modify input/outputs with the MS.

Rubbish on that too. A proper plug will be awesome i wont deny that. but you should be able to dodgy up a connection if you use enough nous and have the right equipment at your disposal.
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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #130 on: Mar 7, 2013, 08:42PM »

These are the settings quoted by cramer to use while the Power transistor is hooked up to the MS2 to control the coil.



Removed the MS Extra board to check out these jumpers and ports for new jumpers to be added.


PCB Layout of my ecu.


Also, ryan and adam, you 2 have good knowledge of the tables for the ka motors, these good tables to start off at ? or can you screenshot me tables you guys used that are "better" ?



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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #131 on: Mar 8, 2013, 10:33AM »
aaron, VE tables are a slightly different arrangement to the fuel tables that the nissan ecu uses so not sure the info i have would help, but that depends on the arrangement of the VE tables.

For example in the Nissan ka24e/de, there is a basic fuel map which controls injector pulsewidth based on maf and tps. There are other elements such as vq maps and pulsewidth limiters etc, but the main fuel control is on the fuel map

in the mini, I have a VE map which sets the volumetric efficiency based on the map sensor and tps. Then there are the equivalent of the Nissan vq map for the map sensor and so forth, so mostly the same, but then there are another series of maps that then fine tune the pulsewidth of the injectors on top of the VE maps and all the other information and then to confuse things further there are learned maps in the NVRAM which will adjust the maps based on information from the o2 sensor.

so, the reason I bring this up is, for the vq map, do you have any other secondary map for fine tuning? Also are the values the % of volumetric efficiency? i.e. high load high rpm you have 135% efficiency which is probably what you'd see in a boosted application, pretty sure you can’t achieve 135% VE on an n/a although adam can correct me if i'm wrong maybe.

Further to the VE map question. Are you using both the VE map and the AFR map? Or are you supposed to just use one or the other? My reason for asking is if you are installing a wideband sensor which will then give information back to the ECU to in turn adjust fueling based on your AFR map, then what is the point of the having VE map? Check through your user manuals and what not and see if there is something that tells you to run one or the other.

your afr table looks safe, it’s definitely looking like a good start. Once you get the car up and running you might be able to run it a little leaner but not much more.

For timing, figures will also different, so if i give you the figures from say, a stock ka24e, the spark table is multiplied by either 2 or 2.5 (can't remember which) on the ka24e ecu. the ka24de ecu is a 1:1 value for spark. That though shouldn’t be too hard to deal with. you will probably want to dip down the advance in the low load low revs area of the spark advance map. my memory isn't great either but i remember seeing advance as high as 42 degrees in the high revs high load areas of stock ka24de maps. i'm at work so don't have any tuning gear with me, you'll have to wait until the weekend when i'm home.

i am also used to looking at maps in 3D to help with with a visual, can you get a screenshot for in some kind of 3D view?



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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #132 on: Mar 8, 2013, 06:26PM »
Can you take a pic of your "ms extra board" installed with the ms2 ecu if you get a chance?

Bare with me a second as im trying to understand it too. But volumetric efficiency. is an interesting one. But i think its rather simple once you are shown the math behind it.

I found this on wiki:
 volumetric efficiency is a ratio (or percentage) of what quantity of fuel and air actually enters the cylinder during induction to the actual capacity of the cylinder under static conditions.

What im reading here i intemperate as thins in math:

for a 4.1 liter 6 cylinder engine. Running gasoline with 14.7:1 AFR
So we take the engine size and divide it by the number of cylinders.
4.1/6=0.683 liters volume per cylinder.
(14.7 parts of air plus 1 part of fuel so we divide by 15.7)
0.683/15.7 = 0.043503

So to reach stoich burn ratio per ignition event my cylinder will need 43.5 millilitre of fuel and this will = 100% VE

Now the megasquirt needs things like, injector dead time, Battery voltage and injector size. This is to calculate the required pulse width needed, to inject 43.5 millilitre and reach VE.

Correct if im wrong please guys.

Moving on.

Your tables look good but i did notice your RPM bins in VE go to 7500 but your spark and EGO correction bins only go to 6000.
Also your VE from 0rpm to about 2000rpm looks way too high. Give it a crack but if it wont run pull these areas back.


Noss, The EGO map allows the wideband to attempt to achieve those set AFR's or to allow auto tuning algorithms to correct the VE table. The EGO sensor will have a preset tolerance it is allowed to change the map. Usually 5-10%
The VE table is the overall governing fuel table. You should have EGO correction's DISABLED for tuning!!!!! or you will wonder why you cant get your ve table stable.

As for reducing low load spark, Ign advance decrease as you INCREASE load. Those mid table ign look ok. But always go in careful with spark.

The areas below 2000rpm and on and below the 50kpa row will probably love to be bumped up. I run 25 degrees timing at idle to get it stable with the big cam.

gotta go.





« Last Edit: Mar 8, 2013, 10:29PM by crazy2287 »
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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #133 on: Mar 9, 2013, 08:58AM »

thats the PCB in my version of the MS2 with the MSextra attachment.

Also, quick question, data logging for tunerstudio, how can I do it ?

Cramer asked for a copy of my tune and a datalog of it starting. Just a quick question while I have 2 minutes off work...
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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #134 on: Mar 10, 2013, 10:42AM »
Yeah ok, the ting you are calling the "megasquirt extra" board is actually just the MSII CPU board. For future reference.

As for datalogging. Check under file, datalogging?

It should not be hard to find, I've got lots of flying time with megatune but only a few hours in tuner studio. So i cant remember it's location and i don't have tuner studio installed.

If you still cant find it let me know and i'll go find the tuning laptop and have a look.
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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #135 on: Mar 11, 2013, 10:01AM »
5 seconds on google.

http://www.msextra.com/doc/ms3/tunerstudio.html




i'm not reading this thread anymore. the lack of bothering to take any initiative in this thread shits me.

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #136 on: Mar 11, 2013, 11:08AM »
Depends what you type into google is what yields you the results. I googled like 3 pages at work typing in stuff like "tuner studioMS data logging how to" and had no results in what I was searching for. Haven't had a chance to pull out the laptop and have a look.
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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #137 on: Mar 11, 2013, 03:57PM »

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #138 on: Mar 13, 2013, 03:56PM »
Datalog is done and sent off to cramer with a copy of my tune.

if he cant configue it, than ill get the jumpers installed and run off either an MSD or crane cams igntion setup to suit.
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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #139 on: Mar 15, 2013, 01:09PM »
Results came back with Cramer saying "The RPM signal is very intermittent; I think that's preventing you from getting a good spark. Are you using the stock distributor or our add on trigger disc?"

Told him I'm running his disc, now it's time to do a cas tooth data log test,

If it is due to a low signal, could possibly be my dodgy temporary set up with the dizzy wiring, just placed the spade terminals on the pins till I get a plug.
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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #140 on: Mar 15, 2013, 05:45PM »
just placed the spade terminals on the pins till I get a plug.

Fuck me. Seriously? Spade terminals?

Do you realise WHY the standard distributor terminals are gold plated?

No wonder it is not firing.


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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #141 on: Mar 15, 2013, 05:55PM »
Fuck me. Seriously? Spade terminals?

Do you realise WHY the standard distributor terminals are gold plated?

No wonder it is not firing.



I got the wires to connection thingy (spade as I called it) from out of the DE dizzy plug that committed suicide, so it should be the same as using the actual plug.
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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #142 on: Mar 19, 2013, 09:32AM »
Sent Cramer a file of a tooth log, so he can see how we'll the MS2 is ready the trigger wheel.
He responded with this

Quote
I think the missing tooth is a bit too close to a compression stroke and it's getting lost in the noise. Try flipping the disc over.

That's not good, I can't personally flip the fucker over as its pressed in  >:(

Now considering changing over to a edis 4 setup with VR sensor, however the wiring for the edis 4 looks like a nightmare, also, pretty sure ill need jumpers installed to do so.
« Last Edit: Mar 19, 2013, 10:35AM by Pure_Sincerity »
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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #143 on: Mar 19, 2013, 12:44PM »
BUT I will not go further until I get the dizzy plug off sleepa and go over my dizzy wiring.
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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #144 on: Mar 19, 2013, 06:26PM »
I'm going to get the 1k ohm resistor soldered to the s12 space to bring it to a 12v pull up and add the jumper and drive the coil directly. I'm over chasing ends and back and forth messages with Cramer, this transistor shit and fuck right off.
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Offline crazy2287

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #145 on: Mar 20, 2013, 06:09PM »
are you not using the factory crank/cam angle wheel and sensor?

You not going sequential IGN, you're keeping the dizzy and the single pack right? This shouldn't be a big deal. If the stock ECU was triggering off it fine before then the MS shouldn't be having issues.

It will either be wiring of board configuration.

you should not need to worry about EDIS, keep the single pack inductive ignition it should suit your application no worries. How high is your comp and what RPM will you be revving too?
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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #146 on: Mar 20, 2013, 10:34PM »
I'm running a ka24DE dizzy now with the diyautotune cas disc, the stock Ecu was reading the SOHC dizzy before the swap.

Compression was calculated around 11.2:1 or something and I'm putting a limit on the rpm at 6.5k
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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #147 on: Mar 22, 2013, 10:10PM »
Car should be fine for 4ms dwell times at that RPM.
the IGN1A race coil will suit it, will fully charge in under 4ms (typically 3ms) with about 120mJ of energy. I use one on my falcon.
It has built in igniter so can be driven directly form Megasquirt without the need for external igniter or "power transistor"
set your output to inverted "no" (ask me to check that if you decided to go this avenu) and your dwell to 3.5ms which will make it stable up to about 7000rpm.
If your using dissy ignition all you need is a 4tooth hall wheel on the dizzy for spark like in the TFI distributors.

A larger missing tooth wheel will also work but im not sure on the configuration requirements.
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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #148 on: Mar 23, 2013, 01:45PM »
To run that coil directly, I say I'd still have to get those jumpers installed and up the ignition output from 5-12v.

As for the dizzy, im running the 36-1 cas disc as displayed on DIY for the ka24de.
I'm going to go back over my setting and wiring tomorrow to sus this outx
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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #149 on: Mar 23, 2013, 07:13PM »
no, ign1a will trigger form 5V logic.
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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #150 on: Mar 23, 2013, 07:23PM »
no, ign1a will trigger form 5V logic.
no, ign1a will trigger form 5V logic.

Awesome, can you linky me mate ?
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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #151 on: Mar 23, 2013, 07:33PM »
Found it mate, it's a DIY product. Sounds good. If the car does not start tomorrow than I'll I this route, will just need 1 ignition lead to suit.
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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #152 on: Mar 23, 2013, 08:47PM »
contact me on skype and i will send you my data sheet to work out dwell limitations. Will come in handy down the track.

You need to be SURE you configuration is correct for the ign1a or it will exceed its duty cycle and bake the epoxy out of the case. i've blown up 2. one because my inversion setting was wrong and the other because i was re flashing the ECU while the ign was still connected.

Just to clarify, I am not familiar with your current board configuration. But the IGN1A will run directly from the megasquirt without the need for a "power transistor"  it will trigger from a negative going (i think) 5v logic signal.
I have all the specification data for the IGN1a so when you skype me ask me for that too and i'll flick the PDF your way.

and this is the one here:
http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/ign1a-race-coil-p-394.html

if you have not got your jimstim yet buy it here and combine the postage:
http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/jimstim-v15-megasquirt-stimulator-wheel-simulator-unassembl-p-174.html

i recommend you get the kit and build it yourself! This will give you the hands on experience you need to tackle more advanced board mods on the megasquirt in the future.
a good soldering iron will be an idea here and a handy helper. This one looks good, takes industry standard tips. temp controlled. rapid heat up. once you use one of these types you wont go back to your 20w handheld again. 900m-t series tips are all over ebay for a couple of bus each too, I'd recommend having a 1mm or less tip for intricate stuff. a 1.7ish for general stuff and a 3mm shovel for heavier work.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-60W-220V-Weld-Soldering-Station-Iron-Stand-Digital-Temp-Control-Sponge-INCL-/150963295053?pt=AU_B_I_Electrical_Test_Equipment&hash=item23261d134d&_uhb=1#ht_4368wt_1397

and once you get one of these you will not understand how you did it before. Use it for holding things in place as you solder, holding the pcb. prtyable. iake it otu and use it in the eng bay of the car for joining wires, or working the db37 plugs. i highly recommend.

and an electronics tool kit
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Electronic-Cutting-Pliers-1-3mm-16AWG-copper-wire-HS-109-1091-/300860739328?pt=AU_Hand_Tools&hash=item460cb28f00&_uhb=1#ht_500wt_1180
That's an example, things i commonly use are the snips. High quality pair of snits is a must. Round nose pliers and square nose pliers. can usually pick up a kit that has them all from j-car or dick smith electronics.

Also, some 99% isopropanol for cleaning once your done. and Liquid flux for repairing, dry joints and stubborn joints. Iso id kinda of hard to get. and liquid flux is really hard to get, specially when you got nub-tards trying to tell you "you don't need it, its in the solder" Yes, i know it's in the solder. I know what i'm talking about. Regardless of your "university" training. This is what i do, board rework and repair will need liquid flux to have any good results. its the difference between a professional job, and a shit one.
Now i'm rambling.

I'll forgive you if you cant find any though, i ended up liberating a few hundred mill from work as no retail outlet had any.

lastly get some board lacquer
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Circuit-Board-Lacquer-Spray-Can-/390443584135?pt=AU_Toys_Hobbies_Model_Kits&hash=item5ae8404a87&_uhb=1#ht_3585wt_1202

after everything is built, tested and has been working in the car for a couple of weeks. Pull it out. remove anything you need too (ie cpu) and give it a GOOD clean with iso and 2 coats of this.
This will environmentally seal the board and dramatically reduce the risk of moisture, dust and vibration from damaging the board.











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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #153 on: Mar 24, 2013, 02:06PM »
Best stimulator ?

V2.2 assembled - $69
V1.5 unassenbled with wheel simulator - $59

So far I'd rather the $69 assembled unit ;)

Will also order the coil, connector and maybe a replacement BIP373 as a backup.
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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #154 on: Mar 24, 2013, 03:02PM »
no. You need the wheel simulator. The v2.2 is not a JimStim. Newest JimStim is 1.5
Otherwise you wont be able to emulate your ignition pulse to properly test the megasquirt hardware.

If your going to get an Igniter you might as well get the IGN1. the dumb coil without built in Igniter. same power output but if you fry the Igniter you don't have to replace the whole thing. = cheaper.
« Last Edit: Mar 24, 2013, 03:10PM by crazy2287 »
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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #155 on: Mar 24, 2013, 05:09PM »
Just place the order on DIY with the IGN1A and plug included.

Will work perfectly and should solve my problems a there are 3 outputs from the stock ecu for ignition and the MS will not drive the factory power transistor which means no spark.

This coil hooks directly to the MS2 spark input, ecu ground, cyl head ground, 12v power source (can tee into injectors so they power at the same time) and power ground (negative side battery)

So this coil will bypass everything else and get driven straight from the MS2

Also crazy, I forgot to tell you a few times, the reason I'm piggy backing the MS2 is because I still want the factory ecu to drive all my guages, fans etc.

This should fix my problems. As it drives directly from the MS2 factory D14 5v logic signal which my MS outputs.
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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #156 on: Apr 8, 2013, 09:13PM »
Still waiting on the coil. It said 6-10 working days, tomorrow is day 9 because of the public holidays we had.

Also, I feel like a dumb fuck now, I was laying down thinking about shit, than it hit me, map sensors require some sort of vacuum to calculate the air pressure, but how does the megasquirt on board sensor work ? Than I realised the tip/knob thing sticking out from the ecu case was the vacuum port or the sensor. Ahh, happy days.
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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #157 on: Apr 8, 2013, 10:37PM »
HHAHHA. For real? I don't even XD
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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #158 on: Apr 8, 2013, 10:45PM »
I was just so busy sorting everything else out, than I thought about the map sensor and thought hang on...... Hahaha
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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #159 on: Apr 9, 2013, 12:37PM »
Map sensor before or after the butterflies in the intake ?
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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #160 on: Apr 9, 2013, 01:14PM »
.
Map sensor before or after the butterflies in the intake ?



Seriously, step away from the engine before you harm it.

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #161 on: Apr 9, 2013, 01:23PM »
Huh, well the map sensor has to be hooked up, so where do you suppose I hook the breather line up to than ? It was a simple question asking does it go before or after the butterflies on the intake manifold ? Because I clearly don't have a plenum.

Google results just state "hook the MS onboard map sensor up to manifold vacuum, tune and go"
« Last Edit: Apr 9, 2013, 01:29PM by Pure_Sincerity »
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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #162 on: Apr 9, 2013, 01:31PM »
Manifold vacuum i would assume is after the butterflies.
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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #163 on: Apr 10, 2013, 12:16AM »
This sounds like a sh*tload of work. Don't know if a proper aftermarket ECU is any easier. Keep going with it. You'll get there and if you get close but don't finish, just take it to someone that is good with ECU's. I've learnt one thing with cars.........your time is valuable (sometimes more valuable than the money you may save doing something on your own).

Props for attempting this. Anything with car electricals and engine management is a real biac*

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #164 on: Apr 10, 2013, 12:19AM »
Manifold vacuum i would assume is after the butterflies.

I would assume so too, but SSS last remark has made me skeptical about it. I know I'm getting annoying with all my questions because I'm jumped the gun into something I knew nothing about, but I'm getting there slowly and making progress. I am also thoroughly happy with everyone's help with everything.

I have received the IGN1A race coil with built in igniter and assembled the plug today. I will be hooking this up very soon when I have a day off work, probably Saturday morning. This should sort my issue as it triggers from the 5volt output from the ecu whereas the Nissan igniter has to power from 7.5volts.
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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #165 on: Apr 10, 2013, 08:55AM »
I would assume so too, but SSS last remark has made me skeptical about it. I know I'm getting annoying with all my questions because I'm jumped the gun into something I knew nothing about, but I'm getting there slowly and making progress. I am also thoroughly happy with everyone's help with everything.

The vacuum source must be taken from between the throttle plates and the head for the ECU to see engine load.
The MAP sensor will see no vacuum  or very little vacuum if you took it from between the filters and the throttle plates, meaning the engine would think it's at full load all the time. (full vacuum with throttles closed = idle conditions; little to no vacuum (ie atmospheric pressure) with the throttles open 100% = full load)

This is a pretty basic fact.

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #166 on: Apr 10, 2013, 10:07AM »
The vacuum source must be taken from between the throttle plates and the head for the ECU to see engine load.
The MAP sensor will see no vacuum  or very little vacuum if you took it from between the filters and the throttle plates, meaning the engine would think it's at full load all the time. (full vacuum with throttles closed = idle conditions; little to no vacuum (ie atmospheric pressure) with the throttles open 100% = full load)

This is a pretty basic fact.

I never planned to run the breather before the throttle plates, I was going to run it after the plates before the cylinder head. Most GSX throttles come factory with 4 lines teed into 1 after the plates, I was planning to run it from those. Like these pics I had posted in Matt's thread.


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Offline squizz taylor

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #167 on: Apr 10, 2013, 11:01AM »
Yes that is the correct way to do it.

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #168 on: Apr 14, 2013, 01:43AM »
remember to ensure all your settings are correct BEFORE  you hook up the ign coil. last thing you want is to blow it up on first startup.
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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #169 on: Apr 14, 2013, 07:33AM »
remember to ensure all your settings are correct BEFORE  you hook up the ign coil. last thing you want is to blow it up on first startup.

Will do, also coil details are here
""Looking for a high powered ignition system? These coils are designed to put out 103 mJ per spark, with a longer spark duration (2.9 ms) than what you'd see with a capacitive discharge. They are the same coils used in the Huber Mustang, which makes over 250 hp per cylinder, as well as on our own Miata project car. A 19 amp IGBT ignitor is built in. They can be driven with a 5 volt logic level output - an MS3X will run them directly, and we recommend a 270 to 330 ohm pullup if you're building a MegaSquirt 1 or 2 to drive them, and they can fully charge with as low as 2.5 ms of dwell. Normally, you'd use them for a distributorless ignition as a coil per plug application. They can be fired sequentially or every crank revolution (wasted spark coil per plug). If used as a single coil with a distributor you may need to run a bit less dwell to prevent heat buildup from being an issue.  Maximum recommended duty cycle is 40%.""

So need to run a bit less dwell, would 2 or 2.2 be too low crazy ?
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Offline Pure_Sincerity

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #170 on: Apr 14, 2013, 09:06AM »
"""A - Ignition signal from ECU

B - Logic ground, connect to ECU ground

C - Spark wire ground, connect to cylinder head

D - Power ground, connect to battery negative

E - 12 volt power""""

Alright, so B goes to ecu ground, which I have hooked up to the negative side of the battery, so B would also go to negative side of battery ? Because that is where I have wired it, than D also goes to "Power ground" which is also negative side of battery. Since they are both just grounds, it wouldn't matter a single bit that they are both hooked up to the (-) on the battery ?
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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #171 on: Apr 14, 2013, 03:41PM »
Coil wired in, map sensor hooked up, ecu relocated, spliced the coil 12v power in the relay with the injectors and megasquirt before the relay so they all power at the same time when ignition is switched on, checked the coil, injectors and ecu, all have 12v power. Should be good to go, just waiting for the other half to get home from work so I can use her laptop and go over the settings again before I attempt a start.

*fingers crossed*
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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #172 on: Apr 14, 2013, 07:50PM »
Fail.

Crazy, am I supposed to be getting a volt reading through the IGN1A signal pin ? Because I'm not getting anything at all when ignition is on or when I'm cranking. All settings are correct.
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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #173 on: Apr 15, 2013, 10:26AM »
I'm still getting power through the factory power transistor etc so I'd say the complete car is favoring the factory ecu and thus not sparking from the MS2.

Today ill rip out the factory ecu and rewire it as a complete stand alone like it was meant to be. Will than need to work out fans, tachometer and speedo from there if it starts and fires. I'm unsure if I can run the fans straight from the MS and tachometer I'm sure i just need to wire it into an rpm signal ?
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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #174 on: Apr 15, 2013, 11:37AM »
I got started, but can't work out how to run all the stock engine relays from the megasquirt ecu ? There is an alternate and you can purchase an external relay board from DIY but it states in many threads that you can get the megasquirt to run all factory relays. But how is it done in a u12 ?
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Offline Kranzy

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #175 on: Apr 15, 2013, 04:36PM »
Why are you now removing the stock ecu?

The two ecu's are not talking to each other in terms of you run this sensor, ill run that etc. The stock ecu is always going to send a signal to the factory transistor. The issue is with the MS2 not firing the new ignition setup. What I would be doing is checking that the ms2 is sending the correct signal to the new setup. The factory transistor can be removed.

You need to now ensure that you have not damaged the ms2 when you originally wired it up and hoped it would work. If the ecu has been damaged that would be why its not firing. Check the ms2 is sending the correct signals it should be.
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Offline Pure_Sincerity

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #176 on: Apr 15, 2013, 05:35PM »
Why are you now removing the stock ecu?

The two ecu's are not talking to each other in terms of you run this sensor, ill run that etc. The stock ecu is always going to send a signal to the factory transistor. The issue is with the MS2 not firing the new ignition setup. What I would be doing is checking that the ms2 is sending the correct signal to the new setup. The factory transistor can be removed.

You need to now ensure that you have not damaged the ms2 when you originally wired it up and hoped it would work. If the ecu has been damaged that would be why its not firing. Check the ms2 is sending the correct signals it should be.

The Ignition driver in the MS board isn't blown, already check it visually and with a multimeter and its fine.

Going back over the wiring, from the MS there is 3 wires for the Dizzy:
White:RPM
Black: VR ground
Grey: +5v ref. (goes to both DIZZY & TPS)

The factory diagram only shows 2 coming from the ecu to the dizzy plug
CAS reference
CAS position.

Now I never had the grey wire (+5v ref) hooked up, because Cramer said the white wire (RPM) would hook in to the CAS reference leaving me blank and not wanting to put the +5v ref into the CAS position.

BUT the megasquirt is currently reading the dizzy because I had recently done a tooth log of the CAS disc and mailed it to Cramer.
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Offline crazy2287

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #177 on: Apr 15, 2013, 08:07PM »
Too much in one go but i'll try to cover it. Don't move so quick :P

you will be able to run at least 2.7ms of dwell up to 6000rpm. You need to monitor the temperature of the coil and ensure it is not getting hot, this is how you tune the dwell. What rpm are you going to set your rev limiter?

Connecting both to the neg of battery will work. but this is how it SHOULD be done.
-The logic ground should connect to the SAME POINT as  all the other sensors. Further, ALL your sensors and the MS should terminate at a single point. THis gives the ECU a ground reference. My signal earth is in my relay box. but other people use a terminal block just outside the MS ECU.
-The spark earth should connect to the CYLINDER head. This is to provide shortest path from spark plug to other side of the coil and increases the maximum attainable spark voltage.
These 2 wires are the sign of a very well set up coil.

FKN throw the stock ECU away IMO. You should have done that ages ago. (note: am not familiar with ECU specifics of the u12's)

Start with a 8-10A fuse. If you blow the fuse YOU PROBABLY HAVE THE IGN SETTINGS WRONG. Constantly monitor the coil and ensure it is not getting HOT. If it is CHECK SPARK SETTINGS. Once you have everything setup and run in you wont need to worry but it is VERY easy to blow up these coils if your take chances. ask me i've blown 2 since i've switched to them, due my own stupidity.

You will only get a reading of the 5v logic with a scope or if your inverted setting is wrong. or a high quality multimeter.

Setting up solenoids is piss easy as is RPM output. ask me what it needs to do in a more direct question and i'll tell you how to go about it.

Speed will be the annoying one. Stock ECU must get speed form a permanent magnet transducer???? If it does, get a voltage converter from jaycar and hardwire into the gauge. calibrate. theres your speed.

So the dizzy needs a 5V reference or a 12V reference???
VR ground should hook to your "signal ground point"
i'm not familiar with the ign stuff your talking about..... Where does the ECU get is ign signal? A hall effect sensor in the Dizzy? or a crank gear?
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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #178 on: May 9, 2013, 01:57PM »
Hey, Pure, how did you go here?
We haven't heard anything for awhile regarding your MS and getting it running.

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #179 on: May 9, 2013, 02:12PM »
Hey, Pure, how did you go here?
We haven't heard anything for awhile regarding your MS and getting it running.

Oh, we'll I fucked off the factory ecu and re wired it again full standalone. Installed 2 new relays, 1 being the main and the second for the fuel pump with a new under hood fuse box to run everything from that requires 12v power.
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All I need now is to wait for the post man to bring me a fuse kit, as Supercheap etc don't sell the sizes I need (3amp) once I install the fuses I should be good to go.
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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #180 on: May 10, 2013, 01:05AM »
Did you try Jaycar? They usually have a good supply of all sizes of fuse...

Most things should be 10A fuse... a could 5's and a 15. What' are you wiring as a 3a? The ego sensor?
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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #181 on: May 10, 2013, 09:22AM »
I just bought a box of 100 for like $15. Has everything from 3-30.

The 3 amp fuse is for the power source to the mega squirt. It states on the diagram to use a 3.
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Offline crazy2287

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #182 on: May 11, 2013, 10:12AM »
Fair enough.sounds a tad low but use it anyway.  Just keep an eye on it, if it keeps blowing and your sure there are no shorts chuck a 5 in.
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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #183 on: May 19, 2013, 07:30PM »
Bingo.

Car wired full stand alone with new relays and 10way fuse box. Everything is working and getting appropriate volts.

AND SHE SPARKS. But only in output test mode. Won't spark whilst cranking. Might go back over the dizzy and sensor return grounds.

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #184 on: May 20, 2013, 02:23AM »
good to see your almost there...
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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #185 on: Jun 9, 2013, 07:27PM »
Absolutely everything is hooked up and getting appropriate power and signal but when my laptop is connected to the megasquirt and I crank the car for a second or 2 power cuts out to the ecu.
Ideas ?

Also, which dizzy wire outputs the rpm signal ? CAS position or CAS signal ? As the megasquirt isn't reading an rpm signal and should read from 50rpm to 300rpm when cranking but shows nothing.
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Offline crazy2287

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #186 on: Jun 15, 2013, 10:34PM »
didja get it running gun?
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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #187 on: Jun 15, 2013, 11:58PM »
Afraid to say it, BUT I may be parting out.

I clean swapped that heavy modified pulsar I bought off my brother for a mint R34 manual neo.
So there is no need for the u12 anymore sadly as this 34 will now be my daily. The zenkei wheels, my sound system, big brakes etc will all be getting transferred to the 34 and the rest will be sold off.

Keep up to date later on guys for some awesome deals on stuff..
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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #188 on: Jun 16, 2013, 02:00PM »
I am dissapoint!
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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #189 on: Jun 16, 2013, 10:49PM »
First thing that comes to mind is what's wrong with the R34? They are at least 12k on carsales, weren't you asking for like 5k for your pulsar?
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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #190 on: Jun 16, 2013, 11:38PM »
First thing that comes to mind is what's wrong with the R34? They are at least 12k on carsales, weren't you asking for like 5k for your pulsar?

That's the first thing I said too it just sounds too good there has to be a catch

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Re: Urgent help.
« Reply #191 on: Jun 17, 2013, 06:35AM »
That's the first thing I said too it just sounds too good there has to be a catch

That's what I thought, but I got there, did a VIN check, came back perfect, compression test came back within factory across all cylinders, sils are straight, chassis and body is straight. It was a n/a rb25de neo that he turbo'd to make an rb25det, it drove fine, no strange noises, and I spent last night ripping the turbo gear off, putting n/a headers on, changing the ecu back to the n/a one and bunged the oil galleries and return at the block/sump and it still drives fine.

Apparently he just really, really wanted a pulsar because Apparanrly he has had multiple in the past. Hadn't been skidded either because he planned to build it for track but he didn't end up finishing the intercooler piping.

Plus, I'm in the process of moving house in a month and my mother wants the u12 gone from her yard as its been there for 7 months, so it's got no where to be stored now :/ will make me sad in pants.
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