SSS - apparently so. There's a red wire that's been spliced in off the interior lighting fuse - I'd imagine thatd be it, since it's not in the FSM and it's done with electrical tape.
The only issue I have with that is that without the fuse in place, my central locking still works - my remote central locking doesnt. When I use my remote central locking, the interior lighting flashes - i'd imagine this is what that link is designed for. So if the fuse IS being tripped by the solenoid - then it must be piggybacking off something else for power, since the circuit still works - and given that this was a professional install, that fuse would have to be tripping as well. - which it isnt, since everything still works and the only fuse I've replaced is the interior lighting fuse. Power windows and central locking always works - just not the remote part of it, since I assume that draws its power solely from the interior lighting fuse. I've thought about just upping the fuse, maybe the head unit draws more power? But it's definitely a short -somewhere- in the body.
For clarity's sake, i'll list everything I know about this;
In the week before this occured, a new headunit and amplifier had been installed.
The fuse went, so I've since removed the amplifier for arguments sake. The fuse still blows. I've double checked all my head unit wiring - there's no faulty wiring there.
When the fuse blows, a few things occur - The clock disappears (illumination stays), and it tells me that my doors are open. Given that the way the door sensors work, when the doors are open, it appears to ground the connection. When there is a ground, the light lights up. When the electrics decide to be in a state where the fuse wont blow - the clock comes back if the cars on, and the doors DO show up as shut on my dash, with or without a fuse in. Without a fuse in, the door light very faintly flashes - i'd assume this is because it doesnt have the fuse and wants to let me know that something's not right. This tells me that something is grounding or shorting out along that circuit, since it works fine without the fuse in the line. Over any bumps, or when I turn the car a certain amount, the fuse trips. It's also the only thing I've got that's close to an indication. - something has to be just tapping and shorting.
Going through the FSM, that one wire coming from the fuse - R/G - seems to go into a plug and split from there, so i've got a tonne of circuits to check apparently, but I want to narrow them down
So, how do I start narrowing it down? I'm happy to remove all features and start up from there, take it for a spin and see if it trips one by one, but I can't do that for -every- circuit. It'd take forever! Suggestions?
tl;dr - thanks for trying, [i seem to suffer from tourettes]s fucked.