Author Topic: Idea's idea's (Read 39242 times)

MattJohn · « **on:** Jan 8, 2013, 09:36PM »

Whaddup motherducklings.

Whilst at work, i think of a lot of random shit.. This is one of them:

Tilt your head anticlock wise 90 degrees. dont bitch.

Really rough sketch. [TOP]

Rough sketch [SIDE] The arrows have replaced piping to try avoid confusion.

Paintshop level = 1billion
RED =K&N FILTER
WHITE = STAINLESS BOX AND PIPING
MAF WILL BE ROTATED OBVS.
DISTRIB'S WILL NEED MOVING.
YELLOW CROSS MEANS PISS THE AIR BOX OFF.

What the engine looks like originally.. might help.

So all in all, the idea is (Starting from the throttle body):
TB goes to piping which widens to compinsate for the J30 maf. Continues to curnve around a wierd looking cyclinder (that i thought i should include) to the top of the plenum, where the box/K&N filter will be. The box will be a parallelogram shape, selaed to the bonnet with rubber, ending in a GQ patrol bonnet scoop. (Probs the best looking option).

Upsides:
Cold air. Simple in theory.

Down sides:
The idea is to make it out of stainless which is expensive. May have to lose my strut brace (maybe, maybe not). Moving the coils. Brackets to make the piping hold onto the firewall (Or somewhere it can mount). If you dont like scoops, this aint for you.

But most of all, its different. and i like that. No im not pitting spell check through; im tired.
Peace

SSS · « **Reply #1 on:** Jan 9, 2013, 06:06AM »

Going to rain on your parade, and sorry for the lack of diplomacy, but this is a fairly stupid design / idea.

There is a reason airboxes / air inlets are place far away from hot items, such as cylinder heads, due to the fact that you want your intake tract to suffer from a little heat absorption as possible.

Preheated intake air = lower detonation threshold = less timing = less torque and therefore power.

No matter how much cold air you feed it, the head will still radiate heat into your new filter housing. There is a pretty simple reason why most, if not all WRX owners swapped from a top mounted intercooler to a front mount, and that is because of heat soaking of the top mount intercooler.

Oh, and you can't move the distributor without going to an ecu that will support reading a crank position from a crank based toothed wheel and hall effect sensor....because where else are you going to get your crank position signal from?

Just do the tried and tested stainless piping CAI down into the front left cavity where the foglights usually reside.

MattJohn · « **Reply #2 on:** Jan 9, 2013, 07:51PM »

Now i know theres a difference between on top, and behind.. but there wouldnt be much of a tempreature change between the two (Espically whilst traveling forward, pushing the air back). I only say this because everyone pisses themselves like an over excited dog at the mention of itb/qtb 's..
Don't get me wrong though, i love itb's, the specially the tougher look they bring. But the air getting sucked into them would be extremely simular to that of this design. So its not that stupid

I didn't know the position of the distributor affected anything.. But thanks for the insight. (Legitamately no sarcasm there).

I dont want to do the same as everyone else, the same is boring. Car meets are far more interesting when someone like say, aaron rocks up with his Ka/Dohc. If everyone had something a little different, it'd be way cooler.
Having said that, the majority of mods are done for gains, and the stainless piping to blah blah will give one of the best.
Currently i have a snorkel of a VZ commo - its almost perfect size to go up the side, has a bendy straw type of thing so you should be able to attach it to the box (if you still have it.. while i dont, however in the maket for CA20 OWNERS WRECKING HIT ME UP :S). The curves are almost perfect to run past the headlight too. il post a pic in a minute.

VZ snorkel

Ive since, cut the tip of the inlet - to makew it sit flush with the body

Oh and another thing, i got some 8mm HD ingntion leads up from nsw (Eagle igntion or something).
I'd advise anyone wanting to upgrade to do so, its piss easy.. Comes in packs made for the cars (10 leads for the ca, 8 sparks 2 distr). Not so much a power increase but the torque curve seems to accelerate a lot nicer

Kranzy · « **Reply #3 on:** Jan 9, 2013, 09:11PM »

Just to clear things up. In your first post, you said distributor when you mean coil pack/igniter. In your photo explanation your distributor won't move.

Adams explanation regarding the distributor is spot on, however a little irrelevant seeing as though you were talking about moving a different part.

Regarding the heat soaking you were referring to on top or behind, go for a spirited drive, pull up and put your hand on top of your rocker cover, see how long you can hold it there, next move your hand between the head and firewall and see if you can keep your hand there longer than you could on the rocker cover.

Pure_Sincerity · « **Reply #4 on:** Jan 9, 2013, 09:57PM »

Quote from: MattJohn on Jan 9, 2013, 07:51PM

Now i know theres a difference between on top, and behind.. but there wouldnt be much of a tempreature change between the two (Espically whilst traveling forward, pushing the air back). I only say this because everyone pisses themselves like an over excited dog at the mention of itb/qtb 's..
Don't get me wrong though, i love itb's, the specially the tougher look they bring. But the air getting sucked into them would be extremely simular to that of this design. So its not that stupid

Would you rather:
A: your design, top mount panel filter retrieving force fed "cold" air traveling through a series of turbulent bends than eventually traveling through a small throttle body (60mm at best) than getting divided by 4 cylinders thus cutting your airflow by 4, not to mention air heats up through turbulence, hot air also expands which would also decrease your airflow, than there's also the heat soak from your motor.

Or

B: itbs, 4x50mm individual throttle bodies (example) sucking individual non turbulent air, straight power, no heat expansion, than you can also add velocity stacks, they speak fr themselves, they change the airflow velocity in which it enters your intake helping to "suck" or "guide" airflow faster.

SSS · « **Reply #5 on:** Jan 10, 2013, 06:08AM »

A lot of race ITB setups i've seen take advantage of the high pressure area at the base of the windscreen, and use this to feed cold air to ITB's.

Matt, if you want to do something different, do twin throttle bodies.

I have a set from a Cadillac Catera, which are 2 x 54mm from memory. Getting the mods to the plenum done and welded to run these has been real low on my priority list, but they will end up on my daily KA trx.

Xedus101 · « **Reply #6 on:** Jan 10, 2013, 07:45AM »

Is that plastic tubing from a vz the piece from the headlight to the air box? First thing I remove when I got a vz, instant power gain. Good to see you found an actual use for it.

MattJohn · « **Reply #7 on:** Jan 10, 2013, 05:56PM »

I would rather:
Something different :L

Aware of how a plenum works :L I belive you missed or chose to ignore when i said i loved itb's..

Anyways;
Twin throttle bodies? So still a single plenum with a sort of "Y" tip?

Quote from: Xedus101 on Jan 10, 2013, 07:45AM

Is that plastic tubing from a vz the piece from the headlight to the air box? First thing I remove when I got a vz, instant power gain. Good to see you found an actual use for it.

Yeah it is ahahah, it works a treat on the smaller 2L man!

Pure_Sincerity · « **Reply #8 on:** Jan 10, 2013, 07:05PM »

No, you stated that itbs would be extremely similar to that of this design, so I merely showed you the difference.

MattJohn · « **Reply #9 on:** Jan 11, 2013, 05:37AM »

umm, nope.. Said the air tempreature getting suck into the 2 would be simular..

Hence, Kranzy's comment

SSS · « **Reply #10 on:** Jan 11, 2013, 09:04AM »

Not really mate.

With your idea, your intake charge would be heated to a greater degree by radiation (heat rises) and a small degree of convection (air currents within the engine bay, and air intake through the now heatsinked air filter / airbox / intake piping).

The airbox / filter arrangement you proposed would end up acting like a heat sink, as i mentioned.

The intake air drawin in by ITB's won't have suffered to as great a degree heat transfer by radiation / convection.

What aaron needs to do now, is fit a NACA type duct to the bonnet, and using some large diameter ducting, "feed" air from the higher pressure area on the bonnet to the close vicinity of the velocity stacks.

Kind of like this:

Would be mounted similar to this:

MattJohn · « **Reply #11 on:** Jan 11, 2013, 10:29AM »

Yeah I understand what everybody was saying with the heat, I was merly just clearing up what I ment in the original comment..

I read somewhere that extractors can cause 40-50% more heat in the engine bay, so something like VR-4 bonnet vents would help too wouldn't they? I ways thought they looked pretty mint too..

And if the area where the ITB's are in a 'high pressure area at the base of the windscreen', bonnet spacers would help too wouldn't they?

Or at least the cheaper option of a couple washers? Spacers look cool though

noss · « **Reply #12 on:** Jan 11, 2013, 01:27PM »

just weld 2 throttle bodies directly to the back of the stock intake plenum lol. i'm thinking along the lines of this rb30 arrangement. piss off all the piping and then put heat shielding around the underside of the throttles so its almost in its own little air box. this may or may not be a serious suggestion.

Pure_Sincerity · « **Reply #13 on:** Jan 12, 2013, 10:06AM »

Quote from: MattJohn on Jan 11, 2013, 10:29AM

And if the area where the ITB's are in a 'high pressure area at the base of the windscreen', bonnet spacers would help too wouldn't they?
Or at least the cheaper option of a couple washers? Spacers look cool though

Fuck, I love bonnet spacers, didn't even think of putting them on to be honest. They would look sick on a u12, but where can I buy them from ? Otherwise I'll just get washers lol

They would help the heat escape I'd imagine the itbs are in the pressure zone.

Quote from: SSS on Jan 11, 2013, 09:04AM

What aaron needs to do now, is fit a NACA type duct to the bonnet, and using some large diameter ducting, "feed" air from the higher pressure area on the bonnet to the close vicinity of the velocity stacks.

Kind of like this:

Would be mounted similar to this:

That same duct is like $150 landed from the U.S, would it really be worth it ? How could I mount it to not get water in my itbs when it rains ?

Have the duct in the centre of the itbs mid was down the runner ?

SSS · « **Reply #14 on:** Jan 12, 2013, 04:34PM »

You don't have it feeding them directly, you would have the end of the hose connected to the duct about 50mm from the closest velocity stack.

Haven't looked recently, but i'm sure you could get a fibreglass one cheaper.

MattJohn · « **Reply #15 on:** Jan 12, 2013, 08:24PM »

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/221104045033?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

Found these, didnt look too hard at them - was just bored on a quick break at work.
All up itl be close to $35, $40.

Thought they looks pretty cool aha

MattJohn · « **Reply #16 on:** Jan 19, 2013, 11:08PM »

Anyone have a lowdown on cams?

Was looking around the net in my spare time, and one dude on here says he got one from crow cams. Everyone was saying it was a beast lol had .4552 lift or something thereabouts with a 290 duration I think.. Couldn't find anything on their website though $:-\$

Would a general regrind give just as big increase? Could use my cam, since the engines only 100k old aha.

MattJohn · « **Reply #17 on:** Jan 21, 2013, 12:50PM »

Oh and im planning on putting front and rear camber on my car. Front camber, i heard you can get some shit from the states. As for rear camber, theres a solid bar and a adjustable bar either side of the brake/hub. Replacing the solid bar with another adjustable bar should do it?

noss · « **Reply #18 on:** Jan 21, 2013, 01:07PM »

you can get a regrind, the antrx ones went up to 270 degrees with 0.42" lift.

there was also the option of a billet cam with from memory 300 or 305 degrees duration and .45" lift. the billet is obviously a more expensive option and i think i only ever sold one.

a regrind will limit the profile compared to a billet. if you want a bit more poke, then i honestly would spend the extra coin.

i had 1 or 2 complaints over the years that the 270 degree cam wasn't aggressive enough or the overlap wasn't optimal or something else along those lines but ultimately, these people opted for the cheaper regrind rather than the billet, too bad if you ask me.

the 270 degree regrind cam certainly wakes up the ka24e though, so it is in my opinion still worth the money. it was a nice addition to my car when i had it. was very happy with it.

Pure_Sincerity · « **Reply #19 on:** Jan 21, 2013, 02:14PM »

JUST CAM IT AND SLAM IT [i seem to suffer from tourettes].

you have my old suspension, Put the [i seem to suffer from tourettes]s in. (Tokico u13 struts with superlows and rear coilover sleeve kit)

Than add a cai and zorst ^_^

noss · « **Reply #20 on:** Jan 21, 2013, 04:20PM »

am i going to have to get out my ban stick for c-bombs? this isn't the facebook group where we talk about LEDs and sick skids. we have a little bit of class.

i don't believe there is a question as to if he should put a cam in or not, but he wants to know what cams are easily available.

Pure_Sincerity · « **Reply #21 on:** Jan 21, 2013, 05:03PM »

I got banned on the Facebook page lol.

As for "c-bombs" there is a setting to block language :p

MattJohn · « **Reply #22 on:** Jan 21, 2013, 05:19PM »

I lef the facebook page because theres nothing useful on there.. I put a sik pod filter on mi ca, gos so fast bro

Aaron, i put your front struts in without issue aha, imo, it needs moar low. choppies will happen when i swap the cracked rubber bits for my.. non cracked ones ahah. I think il have to keep the 17's if i want to run camber, for road clearence issues. Anyone driven around here would understand

Apart from the extra cost, i can only see positvies getting the billet cam. (So its an off the shelf, slap in deal?) They still sell them right?

noss · « **Reply #23 on:** Jan 21, 2013, 09:21PM »

Would have to check with Wade cams. Just give them a call. I can provide the 300 degree specs if you like

Sent from my GT-N7100 using Tapatalk 2

MattJohn · « **Reply #24 on:** Jan 22, 2013, 06:45AM »

Okay, il give them a call after work today.

The cam specs would be great thanks; Wade's had done most the grinds for antrx members didn't they?

SSS · « **Reply #25 on:** Jan 22, 2013, 07:00AM »

Correct. They should still have them on file....I would hope!

noss · « **Reply #26 on:** Jan 22, 2013, 08:44AM »

i would hope so too, but i'm not sure they would have the 300 on profile.

ka24e - pdm race cam specs
intake 300 degrees duration, .506 valve lift
exhaust 300 degrees duration, .506 valve lift.

pdm says:
** requires cam towers to be milled .060"
** requires stiffer valve springs

keith at wade's would be able to recommend something as well. i remember last time i spoke to him about that profile he mentioned that 290 degrees might be better.

noss · « **Reply #27 on:** Jan 22, 2013, 08:52AM »

oh.. hurr durr.. just realised you have a ca20. there won't be any billets at wades. you would have to get a regrind.

there was specs i ran with for a while for the ca20e that was .413 lift and 256 degrees duration for both intake and exahaust, but wade's mentioned stretching it out to a similar 270 degree profile as the ka24e cam. you'd best speak to the guys at wades as to what they can do for you.

another cam i found around the place years ago was

Int: 26/64 Exh: 66/24 Duration: 270 Lift: .388"

MattJohn · « **Reply #28 on:** Jan 22, 2013, 11:28AM »

Ahh I see. In that case, anyone reccomens a good wreckers in Brisbane that still has U12's? narangba wreckers is closest to me but they got rid of em' -__-
Willing to travel pretty much anywhere, need door trims too.
U13 front brakes would be a bonus. Oh and the arms for adjustable rear camber :L shit lol.

Aaron, you said there was one in wacol didn't you :$

noss · « **Reply #29 on:** Jan 23, 2013, 09:11AM »

lol you're not asking for much

there is a wrecker in redcliffe that often has pintaras. well, actually clontarf. at the end of robson street. there is also a ford wrecker in there, they might have corsairs? just give them a call before you head over i would suppose.

MattJohn · « **Reply #30 on:** Jan 23, 2013, 10:33AM »

Haha that's why I ask!
That's helpful as ahaha, expecting to travel to woop woop.

Il definately give them a call, cheers

Hopefully they have something, either all

noss · « **Reply #31 on:** Jan 23, 2013, 12:09PM »

while you're in clontarf, i'll take my buddy clubs back please

MattJohn · « **Reply #32 on:** Jan 23, 2013, 12:57PM »

Ahaha you wish jelly-fish :L

Il look at selling them if I get these Enkei's I'm enquiring about. Got some mean gutterrash on one rim though

Buckled one on Nebo too, but a guy down at dog tyred smacked it out with a mallet - like a boss!

noss · « **Reply #33 on:** Jan 23, 2013, 01:31PM »

they wouldn't fit on the mini anyway. i thought long and hard about keeping them originally and i just couldn't see them working with the mini.

maybe the p1 racing ii in 16x8 with a bunch of dish would work, but they don't come in 16" at all and not anywhere near the right offset. i've got other ideas anyway

MattJohn · « **Reply #34 on:** Jan 23, 2013, 02:45PM »

Yeah they're not bad looking ahah. I've seen an older school mini with extended fenders and dish down at Harry's, looked mean!

Does somebody know what those adjustable arms are called, for the rear hubs? I don't wanna try explain it over the phone :S

Pure_Sincerity · « **Reply #35 on:** Jan 23, 2013, 05:55PM »

Adjustible Toe arms

MattJohn · « **Reply #36 on:** Jan 23, 2013, 07:09PM »

Thanks man, another thread called it an adjustable link lol
Toe arm will make more sense (Y)

SSS · « **Reply #37 on:** Jan 24, 2013, 05:57AM »

How much have you been quoted for the toe arms? I think I have a pair at home.

MattJohn · « **Reply #38 on:** Jan 24, 2013, 11:03AM »

$110 for the pair.

It's all they had too, no cam and no flywheel :$
Could get them both shaved off my engine I suppose.

SSS · « **Reply #39 on:** Jan 24, 2013, 11:47AM »

Quote from: MattJohn on Jan 24, 2013, 11:03AM

$110 for the pair.

PM me an offer; i'll double check tomorrow that they are still good to use.

Kranzy · « **Reply #40 on:** Jan 24, 2013, 01:22PM »

One thing I would recommend no matter where you get them from is to pull them apart and grease them, cant remember the stuff I used, Jono would know, might be just an anti sieze, as I found the one on the drivers side especially would seize up from the heat of the exhaust. Makes it easy for the tyre shops to do the adjustments when they do your alignment.

MattJohn · « **Reply #41 on:** Jan 24, 2013, 01:27PM »

Yeah I had though that, with most things from the wreckers aha.
We use INOX at work, it works a treat

noss · « **Reply #42 on:** Jan 24, 2013, 06:34PM »

The toe arms from the j30 maxima work as well

Sent from my GT-N7100 using Tapatalk 2

noss · « **Reply #43 on:** Jan 24, 2013, 08:18PM »

http://www.iapdirect.com/spc-nissan-maxima-stanza-rear-camber-arm-kit.html

Sent from my GT-N7100 using Tapatalk 2

Pure_Sincerity · « **Reply #44 on:** Jan 26, 2013, 12:08PM »

For that price I'd rather go to the wreckers and pull a set out and out them in my tool box :p

I personally only think I would need like an extra 1 degree to clear my guards on the rear. Anyone had any experience using camber bolts on the front ? It's only 1 per side isn't it ?

MattJohn · « **Reply #45 on:** Jan 27, 2013, 08:39AM »

Those maxima arms look pretty mint ahaha.
SSS has a set I'm going with anyway, so alls well.

I'm intrigued with the front camber as well. Il do some scavenging around a bit later

noss · « **Reply #46 on:** Jan 28, 2013, 05:00PM »

you could probably get one of these kits to work

http://www.k-mac.com.au/pages/newprods/nissan/nissan.htm

otherwise front camber is controlled by a camber bolt. like so http://www.whiteline.com.au/product_detail4.php?part_number=KCA414&sans_vehicle=1 you just need to get the right size.

Pure_Sincerity · « **Reply #47 on:** Jan 28, 2013, 05:13PM »

Wait, I have those on my coilovers :p

MattJohn · « **Reply #48 on:** Feb 11, 2013, 07:14PM »

Sorry i havnt been on, been skateboarding, rolling ankles, dieing ect.

Those strut tops look pretty mint! Could work easy enough.
Ive picked up some side skirts, a hnu12 dash (Never seen one! reckon it looks the goods), and looking into a suburu front bar like dano's (maybe not that extreme since i dont/wont have a fmi.. yet :&). Il post a pic up of the dash tomorrow when theres more light for others that havnt seen it.. Il be back soon with other stuff ahah

MattJohn · « **Reply #49 on:** Feb 12, 2013, 09:05AM »

So this is the dash i was talking about.. Persoanlly, like it a lot more, its a lot flatter and the garnish looks classy lol.

Ive sanded back the middle piece, going to paint it today.. probably just stick to grey or black?

MattJohn · « **Reply #50 on:** Feb 18, 2013, 02:05PM »

Quote from: noss on Jan 22, 2013, 08:44AM

i would hope so too, but i'm not sure they would have the 300 on profile.

ka24e - pdm race cam specs
intake 300 degrees duration, .506 valve lift
exhaust 300 degrees duration, .506 valve lift.

pdm says:
** requires cam towers to be milled .060"
** requires stiffer valve springs

keith at wade's would be able to recommend something as well. i remember last time i spoke to him about that profile he mentioned that 290 degrees might be better.

acquired a Ka24e.

For this cam (or one like it), a head shave and port and polish.. How much of a hassel would it be getting a tune? (Its got the stage 2 antrx chip already).

Pure_Sincerity · « **Reply #51 on:** Feb 18, 2013, 02:54PM »

Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I thought you couldn't run beyond a 270 degree in a SOHC KA without having forged pistons for the higher comp ?

And you can only shave 0.2mm from the head before losing too much tension on the chain ? Even so may not raise the comp high enough to run the bigger camshafts ?

MattJohn · « **Reply #52 on:** Feb 18, 2013, 08:58PM »

270 degree even sounds like a reasonable upgrade..

Won't be too much work for a custom chain would it?

noss · « **Reply #53 on:** Feb 19, 2013, 08:53AM »

Quote from: Pure_Sincerity on Feb 18, 2013, 02:54PM

Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I thought you couldn't run beyond a 270 degree in a SOHC KA without having forged pistons for the higher comp ?

who said that and when?

Pure_Sincerity · « **Reply #54 on:** Feb 19, 2013, 01:23PM »

Quote from: noss on Feb 19, 2013, 08:53AM

who said that and when?

You did buddy.

Quote

. extra mods/info
ka24e R6 cam   in. 248/ex. 256   both   no
ka24e R4 cam   in. 270/ex. 270   manual only   idle is slightly lumpy
ka24e R5 cam   in. 288/ex. 292   manual only   requires billet cam to be purchased. forged pistons must be purchased. new rocker OE arms must be installed. pm me to request prices

although i will not gaurantee power figures, the quoted power figures for the ka24e R4 cam is an increase from 96kw -> 111kw

noss · « **Reply #55 on:** Feb 19, 2013, 02:12PM »

well i'll be.

i can't remember where that recommendation came from. basically, i used to do all the searching that most people were too lazy to do, get the cam specs from suppliers and then get the cams made up locally for cheaper. its just i decided to stick to a few solid choices to simplify things. if there were any special requirements stated by the original manufacturer, i'd just repeat it verbatim.

maybe nismo usa trying to gouge people for more money? i can't see why you'd really need it. their wording was 'race pistons' but then when i researched their 'race pistons' they were forged.

what you do at the end of the day is up to you.

also this:

Quote

KA24E cam list w/ specs of each cam:

Stock 240sx:

Duration:
Intake - 240
Exhaust - 248

Lift:
Intake - .409in (10.38 mm)
Exhaust - .409in (10.38 mm)

LSA: 114.5*

___________________________

Stock KA24E Pick up:

Duration:
Intake - 232
Exhaust -232

Lift:
Intake - .381in (9.7mm)
Exhaust - .381in (9.7mm)

LSA: 114.5*

____________________________

O&J Stage 1 Hydraulic Cam:

Duration:
Intake - 266
Exhaust -266

Lift:
Intake - .434in (11.04mm)
Exhaust - .434in (11.04mm)

LSA: (All O&J cams are between 109-110 LSA. I never got a definite answer from the owner)

Price: $175 plus an additional $75 without a core

Website: O&J Performance*::*Engine*::*KA24E/DE Camshafts*::*KA24E Camshaft

_____________________________

O&J Stage 2 Hydraulic Cam:

Duration:
Intake - 270
Exhaust -270

Lift:
Intake - .444in (11.3mm)
Exhaust - .444in (11.3mm)

LSA: (All O&J cams are between 109-110 LSA. I never got a definite answer from the owner)

Price: $175 plus an additional $75 without a core

Website: O&J Performance*::*Engine*::*KA24E/DE Camshafts*::*KA24E Camshaft
_____________________________ _

O&J Stage 1 Mechanical Cam:

Duration:
Intake - 280
Exhaust -280

Lift:
Intake - .479in (12.19mm)
Exhaust - .484in (12.31mm)

LSA: (All O&J cams are between 109-110 LSA. I never got a definite answer from the owner)

Price: $175 plus an additional $75 without a core

Website: O&J Performance*::*Engine*::*KA24E/DE Camshafts*::*KA24E Camshaft Mech Lifters

_____________________________ __

O&J Stage 2 Mechanical Cam:

Duration:
Intake - 290
Exhaust -290

Lift:
Intake - .489in (12.44mm)
Exhaust - .494in (12.57mm)

LSA: (All O&J cams are between 109-110 LSA. I never got a definite answer from the owner)

Price: $175 plus an additional $75 without a core

Website: O&J Performance*::*Engine*::*KA24E/DE Camshafts*::*KA24E Camshaft Mech Lifters

_____________________________ __

O&J Stage 3 Mechanical Cam:

Duration:
Intake - 300
Exhaust -300

Lift:
Intake - .500in (12.7mm)
Exhaust - .504in (12.82mm)

LSA: (All O&J cams are between 109-110 LSA. I never got a definite answer from the owner)

Price: $175 plus an additional $75 without a core

Website: O&J Performance*::*Engine*::*KA24E/DE Camshafts*::*KA24E Camshaft Mech Lifters
_____________________________ ___

Nismo R4 Cam:

Duration:
Intake - 270
Exhaust -270

Lift:
Intake - .401in (10.2mm)
Exhaust - .401in (10.2mm)

LSA:

Price: $317.50

Website: Nismoparts.com - Your #1 Source for OEM Parts and Accessories

_____________________________ ___

Nismo R5 Cam:

Duration:
Intake - 288
Exhaust -292

Lift:
Intake - .550in (13.97mm)
Exhaust - .562in (14.3mm)

LSA:

Price: $317.50

Website: Nismoparts.com - Your #1 Source for OEM Parts and Accessories
_____________________________ __

Nismo R6 Cam:

Duration:
Intake - 248
Exhaust -256

Lift:
Intake - .421n (10.7mm)
Exhaust - .421in (10.7mm)

LSA:

Price: $317.50

Website: Nismoparts.com - Your #1 Source for OEM Parts and Accessories
_____________________________ __

Colt C.879 Cam:

Duration:
Intake - 280
Exhaust -290

Lift:
Intake - .404in (10.28mm)
Exhaust - .408in (10.38mm)

LSA:

Price: $???

Website: Colt Cams - Camshaft Profiles
_____________________________ _

PDM Mild Performance:

Duration:
Intake - 260
Exhaust -268

Lift:
Intake - .424in (10.79mm)
Exhaust - .440in (11.2mm)

LSA:

Price:
US: $254.76 + $250 core charge
CAN: $280 + $250 core charge

Website: PDM Racing - Cam Corner
_____________________________ __

PDM Race Cam:

Duration:
Intake - 300
Exhaust -300

Lift:
Intake - .505in (12.85mm)
Exhaust - .505in (12.85mm)

LSA:

Price:
US: $428.57 + $250 core charge
CAN: $473 + $250 core charge

Website: PDM Racing - Cam Corner

_____________________________ __

PDM Strong Performer:

Duration:
Intake - 268
Exhaust -272

Lift:
Intake - .424in (10.79mm)
Exhaust - .440in (11.2mm)

LSA:

Price:
US: $351.90 + $250 core charge
CAN: $382 + $250 core charge

Website: PDM Racing - Cam Corner

_____________________________ ___

JWT (Jim Wolf Technology):

Duration:
Intake - 248
Exhaust -256

Lift:
Intake - .422in (10.71mm)
Exhaust - .422in (10.71mm)

LSA:

Price: $375

Website: Jim Wolf Technology website

_____________________________ _________

Blank un-ground billit KA24E cam:

All lobes are un-ground.

Price: $190.50

Website: Nismoparts.com - Your #1 Source for OEM Parts and Accessories
_____________________________ ___________

Only a start. I'll post more info later on head specs, flow cfm, runner length etc. If you know the LSA's or know of any other cams feel free to post them.

Engine specs and random info:

Ignition timing: 15* Btdc
Stock thermostat temp: 170*F (76.6c)
Rocker arm ratio: 1.422:1
Intake manifold runner length: (head to TB flange) = 10.236in (260mm)
Throttle body CFM: = 458cfm
Throttle body diameter: = 2.362in (60mm)
Intake valve diameter: = 1.34in (34.1mm)
Exhaust valve diameter: = 1.618in (41.1mm)
Head port length: = 1.57in (40mm) Intake and Exhaust

Rod/Stroke ratio: 1.719
Bore/Stroke ratio: 0.927
Rod length: 6.496in (165mm)
Piston pin height: 1.338 inches (34.0mm)
Piston dish: -2.8cc's
Piston pin diameter: .826inch (21mm)
Cylinder volume: 597.3cc
Combustion chamber volume: 65cc
Head gasket thickness: (crushed) .040in (1.0mm)
Valve angle: 45* Intake and exhaust

Stock Head flow numbers: (Since MyHomePage doesn't exist anymore)

Intake: 28" Water pressure
.1 ----- 79cfm
.15 --- 119.3cfm
.2 -----145.3cfm
.25 --- 172.7cfm
.3 ----- 193.1cfm
.4 ----- 206cfm
.5 ----- 205.8cfm
.6 ----- 203cfm

Exhaust: 28" Water pressure
.1 ----- 54.9cfm
.15 --- 70.4cfm
.2 ----- 85.4cfm
.25 ---- 99.9cfm
.3 ----- 113.3cfm
.4 ----- 137.1cfm
.5 ----- 147cfm
.6 ----- 145.9cfm

Ignition break points: Info was taken from "Rom Editor" using a stock 1989 ignition map.

750rpm = 15* Btdc
1,200rpm = 20* Btdc
2,400rpm = 24* Btdc
3,500rpm = 22* Btdc
4,000rpm = 20* Btdc
4,700rpm = 23* Btdc
5,200rpm = 25* Btdc
5,500rpm - 6250rpm (rev limit) = 26* Btdc

http://www.antrx.com/smf/index.php/topic,19544.new.html#new

MattJohn · « **Reply #56 on:** Feb 20, 2013, 11:43AM »

Too lazy, that's me! And I really don't know enough to have a decent conversation with you's lol.

Out of what you put down, the "O&J stage 2 Hydraulic Cam" seems to best option.. If you can't go over a 270 grind without doing bottom end work anyway (I'd prefer not to if I could, I think it will be quick enough for my liking for now).

It has a bigger lift over the competitors, which I'm guessing is better.
Price is really good too.

SSS · « **Reply #57 on:** Feb 20, 2013, 11:58AM »

You can go as big a cam as you like on a standard bottom end, however, you won't see it's full potential by doing so.

noss · « **Reply #58 on:** Feb 20, 2013, 12:45PM »

Quote from: MattJohn on Feb 20, 2013, 11:43AM

Price is really good too.

you would just get it done through wades, using a billet from them. you wouldn't be ordering from the states, it would cost you a fortune.

MattJohn · « **Reply #59 on:** Feb 23, 2013, 07:00PM »

ahhh, this sounds good. Il proably go for the 300 grind, like orignially planned (yes through wades). Im half and half for rebuilding the bottom end. Reading the project threads and itb threads is a terrible thing :L

On a side note, i was digging about flywheels. I dont want to shave a 200'000k old one..
This came to my attention:
http://www.frsport.com/Fidanza-Lightened-Flywheel-Nissan-240SX-89-98_p_1387.html

Also found some important quotes:

Quote from: chr1S on Oct 20, 2006, 08:29PM

The flywheel would be alot stronger than stock, also lighter, but in a sense a heavier flywheel than this could be good,
slighty ligther than stock would give you the responsiveness you want, and keep you in your powerband for longer,
too light will just outrev it way too fast..
Thats what i've learnt from reading and talking to others about their experiances.

Quote from: SSS on Oct 21, 2006, 11:23AM

I've got 2 OEM KA24E flywheels sitting here at home, both weigh approx 10kg each, or 22lbs.
I will certainly be getting a lighter chromoly aftermarket item.

The FIDANZA flywheel weighs in at 10.5 lbs, almost half of the OEM ones.. Is this too light, like chris was saying?
Also, its a Ka24e from a 240sx. RWD. I dont think i brushed upon an answer in that thread, so does it fit up?

Pure_Sincerity · « **Reply #60 on:** Feb 23, 2013, 07:29PM »

My flywheel is half of factory weight, feels great. Also mine is from a 240sx.

MattJohn · « **Reply #61 on:** Feb 23, 2013, 07:46PM »

Cooool.
Be ordered as soon as i actually have a weeks work

Oh and for anyone thats interested, im getting aarons sohc head tomorrow, that i can do work to. (cam, shave, port, itb). Make it a quicker job hopefully, and have the car off the road for a smaller amount of time

MattJohn · « **Reply #62 on:** Feb 24, 2013, 05:34PM »

I've got the spare sohc head, its going in for a acid dip as soon as i can throw money at it..

The problem im facing is what sort of intake setup to run. To be totally honest, the a Itb/Qtb set ups seem far too much fucking around for me persoanlly.. This will be my first engine build, and as id like to do something different, i also need to do something within my skill and understanding level. Mostly, i want to do it once, do it right.

I was talking to Noss about a stage 3 chip, to replace my stage 2 chip - with a bigger MAF.

Moving things closer to the head though, I understand the stock plenum is well.. pretty shit.
- Straight to the point, i would LIKE to keep the ecu, with a retune if possible.. if i have to go aftermarket, then ohwell...

Would a Twin TB set up still require a piggyback ecu like the ITB's do?

If so, even one bigger TB, something like a 80mm one to a probably custon plenum. (Correct/flame me if im wrong, but the only real custom part il need for a single TB, maybe even the twin is the actual plenum, not a custom intake mani as well?)

I dont see a need to go bigger than 80mm TB(s), since the maf i have is 80mm OD, im not sure how big the J30 is.

Ive included this in a message to noss, but i thought may as well post it here, so to hopefully get a few points of view

SSS · « **Reply #63 on:** Feb 25, 2013, 09:20AM »

No, twin TB setup would not requie an ecu change. If you plan on keeping the stock MAF, then no change is required, otherwise if you are upgrading to a larger MAF all you will need is an eeprom with the changes to the VQ map to suit that new MAF.

aaron needed to use a different ecu as he had no way of running a MAF.

MattJohn · « **Reply #64 on:** Feb 25, 2013, 12:13PM »

Oh okay cool, il run the larger maf then.
Il post some pics up when I get around to it aha.

MattJohn · « **Reply #65 on:** Feb 25, 2013, 02:14PM »

And for those who are interested in rear camber, you don't have to remove the fuel tank.. Just a chassis bar.

MattJohn · « **Reply #66 on:** Mar 6, 2013, 07:25PM »

Soooo, not a whole much of an update yet, still tied under in bills -__-

Picked up some quads of Noss the other night though, already went ahead and removed the secondary butterfly valves off them (Havnt plugged it yet).

Compare the ITB's to the Stanard intake! Mass increase!

Also, a 5c piece is almost perfect for plugging the injector hole.. I'd assume a welder could cause some havoc here, could i succesfully solder them in of something?

MattJohn · « **Reply #67 on:** Mar 16, 2013, 08:16PM »

Not much has happened, swapped out some shit for adam's solid engine mount (Drivers side).
Today I bought a new soldering iron and soldered in the 5c pieces, thinking of siliconing the top for a little heat protection.
Pics Below vv

Another note, the battery went flat today too

Not sure why, ive been starting it a fair bit (every day or second day). Its always turned over slow but kicked no worries? The windows are a little slow at winding up, so maybe the battery is crapping out from sitting too long before i bought it.. The belt is turning the altinator fine and dandy, so its not that (if it were, it should have went flat a couple weeks ago id say?)

Also going to use the spare TR-X cluster i have, since the odo doesnt work, and have to install the LCA brace i got not too long ago. Thats about it for now, when i sell the gl-i (Should be really soon!) I might make a project thread for this.

ITB'S:

SSS · « **Reply #68 on:** Mar 17, 2013, 08:21PM »

Don't expect the solder to hold, you would have been better off using an epoxy glue or something like JB Weld.

crazy2287 · « **Reply #69 on:** Mar 17, 2013, 10:04PM »

+1
that solder has not bonded at all.
IMO, remove it. Go to auto one and get some "kneed it" and use it in place of the solder

Or even better, measure the diameter of the hole and call around. Even try "ultra cheap auto" an internet store i use often. Ask them if they have any welsh plugs of the diameter you need.

What your using there is not okay.

Pure_Sincerity · « **Reply #70 on:** Mar 18, 2013, 12:11AM »

Build them in the car on the spare intake manifold you picked up from me, than kick your own ass for trying to build a plenum around the booster/master. Will be costly.

Fab work of re shaping intake ports, custom plenum, piping etc, TB spacers/links
Injectors, FPR & rail adaptor.
Antrx tune.

I don't regret mine as I haven't tested yet, but if I could go back, I would just use big port runners with a big top mount manifold with like an 80mm single TB, that may I could do a turbo setup later on.

SSS is the boss man that did my spacers.

MattJohn · « **Reply #71 on:** Mar 18, 2013, 02:25PM »

I repspect your opinion, but I'm still gonna do ITB's :L I already have them anyway man.

Il have a look for plugs this arvo, otherwise some glue stuff should be around.

Might be a silly question, but can't the BMC just be moved over a little? If it doesn't clear? Not sure how it connects to the firewall aha. I was hoping to have all runners of the intake manifold bent on a slight angle. The runners obviously wouldn't be able to be equal length then, but I don't see that would be much more of a restriction then a plenum anyway?

Also, what problems would I run into having a 1 into 4 manifold made up, rather a plenum? Pretty much like a set of 4-1 extractors but with cool air traveling in the opposite direction?

Most importantly: spacers? Please explain? Il look now as well

MattJohn · « **Reply #72 on:** Mar 18, 2013, 02:46PM »

Never mind explaining spacers, used to magical Google.

Any chance you want to make another set, Adam??
$$'

SSS · « **Reply #73 on:** Mar 18, 2013, 03:26PM »

Do you need them the exact same dimensions as aaron's?

And no, you can't move the BMC over a little.

noss · « **Reply #74 on:** Mar 18, 2013, 04:00PM »

i can't remember the guy's name, but he's on antrx. made quite a lot of good posts about his build.. half decent music too.. in the first video at least. reminds me of the old days at dv8 ha!

it's a ka24e u12, he is in tasmania from memory

anyway, short of it is, no need to relocate the braking gear

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MsirnmquHog[/youtube]

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5ddv6CKOmZE[/youtube]

noss · « **Reply #75 on:** Mar 18, 2013, 04:04PM »

evknvl.. search his posts on here, he posted up heaps of really good info about strut braces, radiators, his itb install and other stuff

also some more pics:
http://www.nissanclub.com/forums/member-rides/277005-itb-nissan-ka24e.html

Pure_Sincerity · « **Reply #76 on:** Mar 18, 2013, 04:46PM »

Matt, what are you going to do about the iac valve than ? Can it be tuned out with one of your EPROM chips Ryan ?

If not you will need an aftermarket ecu of some sort.

noss · « **Reply #77 on:** Mar 18, 2013, 05:21PM »

i have tuned ca18det motors that have had the iac system totally removed. all that is required is to adjust the stopper screw on the throttle body so that enough air gets past for the engine to idle.

MattJohn · « **Reply #78 on:** Mar 18, 2013, 08:58PM »

Yeah ive skimmed through some of evils threads, found them pretty cool.

IAC valve? Same as the secondary butterfly valves?
If so, yeah like Ryan said - il have them a litte open (Y)

Went down to auto barn this arvo, the guy there was quite interested in the whole thing when I was looking for plugs aha. Even knew there was a twin spark model.. +1 to him.

Anyway, he reccomended Christmas tree plugs silofexed in. I liked the idea. The silofex is heat/water/peddy resistant too. Got some speedflow hose to fill the gaps where the secondary butterfly valves where on the ITB's themselves. Pics when I get home, it's hard to explain lol

MattJohn · « **Reply #79 on:** Mar 18, 2013, 09:49PM »

Pics:

The hoses should probably be hose clammped

And more silofex added to around the top, just to make sure its sealed.

Quote from: SSS on Mar 18, 2013, 03:26PM

Do you need them the exact same dimensions as aaron's?

Im not sure :$ Do they sit between the intake manifold and itb's directly? If so, it would probably be easier to do them first, then get the manifold shaped to it.. Im pretty sure they are the same tb's. And if Aarons clears on a DOHC head, then it shouldnt cause much drama on a SOHC head? Point out flawed logic please?

I dont see why they cant be the same

SSS · « **Reply #80 on:** Mar 19, 2013, 07:53AM »

Quote from: MattJohn on Mar 18, 2013, 08:58PM

IAC valve? Same as the secondary butterfly valves?
If so, yeah like Ryan said - il have them a litte open (Y)

IAC valve = Idle Air Control valve.

Secondary Butterfly valves = SCV's.
No need for them with ITB's.

Pure_Sincerity · « **Reply #81 on:** Mar 19, 2013, 10:42AM »

Matt, what size are these throttles ? Top and bottom ? Mine are 50mm top and 42mm down by the butterfly, I know some model Hayabusa throttles are much larger around 48-52mm down by the butterfly. I may upgrade much later on and build another set.

Ill post up a pic of my throttles later on alone as they are finished now.

SSS · « **Reply #82 on:** Mar 19, 2013, 11:09AM »

Quote from: MattJohn on Mar 18, 2013, 08:58PM

Went down to auto barn this arvo, the guy there was quite interested in the whole thing when I was looking for plugs aha. Even knew there was a twin spark model.. +1 to him.

Anyway, he reccomended Christmas tree plugs silofexed in. I liked the idea. The silofex is heat/water/peddy resistant too. Got some speedflow hose to fill the gaps where the secondary butterfly valves where on the ITB's themselves. Pics when I get home, it's hard to explain lol

Quote from: MattJohn on Mar 18, 2013, 09:49PM

Pics:

The hoses should probably be hose clammped

And more silofex added to around the top, just to make sure its sealed.

Im not sure :$ Do they sit between the intake manifold and itb's directly? If so, it would probably be easier to do them first, then get the manifold shaped to it.. Im pretty sure they are the same tb's. And if Aarons clears on a DOHC head, then it shouldnt cause much drama on a SOHC head? Point out flawed logic please?

I dont see why they cant be the same

SSS · « **Reply #83 on:** Mar 19, 2013, 11:11AM »

I'm not forcing my standard of work on others....but come on....are you serious?

Pure_Sincerity · « **Reply #84 on:** Mar 19, 2013, 11:43AM »

I used the heads off the top of sohc ka rocker cover bolts, they sat flush in the injector ports of my throttles than I used some of that strong poxy glue shit and those fuckers ain't ever coming out. I just made sure they didn't protrude into the flow section of the throttles.

Also, where I took my secondary butterflies out, I turned that into an equalizer pipe for some sort of vacuum so what ever I hook up to it, its getting vacuum from the 4 cyl not just 1.

Ill post pics later.

Pure_Sincerity · « **Reply #85 on:** Mar 19, 2013, 02:38PM »

Got a vacuum manifold here too if you need it man.

Pure_Sincerity · « **Reply #86 on:** Mar 19, 2013, 04:01PM »

Those are taken from the back of my ITBS.

The 2 bars that are painted light blue are the spacers that SSS made for me.
The silver pipe is my equilizer pipe.

IT IS IMPORTANT when doing the spacers that they are the same length, then when doing the Linkage(s) that it is dead straight and doesnt flex so you can make sure all butterflies open at the EXACT same time and none move or open more than others.

I need to clean my thorttles up a tad, have gotten alot of scratches from contantly taking them off.

MattJohn · « **Reply #87 on:** Mar 19, 2013, 06:08PM »

Fair bit to reply to here..

Quote from: SSS on Mar 19, 2013, 07:53AM

IAC valve = Idle Air Control valve.

Secondary Butterfly valves = SCV's.
No need for them with ITB's.

Where abouts is the IAC?
By SCV, i ment the butterfly valves at the base of the intake manifold, i think we mean the same thing?
I read about everyone else taking them out / talking about them on like 2007 threads ahaha.
Ive taken the secondary butterfly valves out before i posted the pics on here.

Quote from: SSS on Mar 19, 2013, 11:11AM

I'm not forcing my standard of work on others....but come on....are you serious?

Il fix them up man.. Got too g'd up about doing it fast and didnt consider the side effects. Like them melting. Then my car running lean. Then it going pop.
On my shelf. i have "Ultra black - Maximum oil resistance RTV silicone gasket marker". Can i use that instead of a JB weld? With a 5c peice.

Quote from: Pure_Sincerity on Mar 19, 2013, 11:43AM

Also, where I took my secondary butterflies out, I turned that into an equalizer pipe for some sort of vacuum so what ever I hook up to it, its getting vacuum from the 4 cyl not just 1.

Ive taken the secondary butterfly valves out before i posted the pics on here.
Lol, dont get me wrong, it might.. but i dont think its going to do very much 'equalizing' hahahaha. It looks neat though, and plugs gaps, so its good. Your silver piping is doing the same as my blue speedflow piping.

Quote from: Pure_Sincerity on Mar 19, 2013, 02:38PM

Got a vacuum manifold here too if you need it man.

Vacuum manifold? I dont know what that is, il look through threads looking for mention of it.

I will not Google it, Cause google lead me astray!

When everyone was talking about spacers, you all ment those blue pipes and i ment something totally different -__- My idea of a TB Spacer, was more of a 5mm gasket that sat between the itb and head/manifold. Seen it on a SR forum, please dont judge. I tried.

Anyway the id imagine the spacers would make it a hell of a lot easier for the fabrication man, mine are the same ID as aarons as well. (50/42mm or there abouts). So they should work. Being honest though, im weary of taking them apart because of the amount of springs and shit.. I dont want stuff flying out and me not being able to put it back in.

MattJohn · « **Reply #88 on:** Mar 27, 2013, 11:45AM »

Can someone tell me what the metal is that the intake mani is made of please?

Sorry i can't search ATM, only have a spare second here and there :$ chess

Pure_Sincerity · « **Reply #89 on:** Mar 27, 2013, 11:53AM »

Cast aluminum.

MattJohn · « **Reply #90 on:** Mar 27, 2013, 12:38PM »

Cheers dude

MattJohn · « **Reply #91 on:** Apr 8, 2013, 04:52PM »

Sorry, just need a quick answer. Looking in the web too, but there' a lot of bullshit :L

480cc s13 injectors fit?

Pure_Sincerity · « **Reply #92 on:** Apr 8, 2013, 04:59PM »

no, ka24e is a top feed injector, all s13 injectors wether it be ca or sr are all side feed.

MattJohn · « **Reply #93 on:** Apr 8, 2013, 05:03PM »

ahh fook. all goods, thanks man

MattJohn · « **Reply #94 on:** Apr 18, 2013, 08:21PM »

The Gli sold last night, and ive bought a few parts for the ti which is booked into the shop for monday.. CV and steer boots will need replacing, front drivers mount (Possibly the other's, didnt check), and he'l have a muck around with the clutch/cmc.. Oh yeah, and leaky dizzy

But all should be okay aha, have a few spares to chuck on.

In the meantime though ive bought an oil cooler, new battery, replaced the split left mount with a solid one and bought some decent tools cause everyone knows that makes working on cars %100 better

Would this work, to plug up the itb injector holes? Even with the help of a 5c piece? Couldnt find any jb'weld, they had simular shit but for plastic... Can venture to further stores if not.

Fooly sick oil cooler i got

This is cool! Thinking of hitting my boss up for a big ass tractor shifter, and sticking it on with a sr20 short shifter. Something a bit different ahaha

Kranzy · « **Reply #95 on:** Apr 19, 2013, 12:26AM »

From what I can see on that packet it should be fine.

MattJohn · « **Reply #96 on:** Apr 24, 2013, 03:49PM »

My cars Rwc is finally done !

Heaps keen, tomorrow is the Anzac public holidays, so all suspension should be able to go in, rear toe arms to replace the what-cha-macall-its for a little rear camber. Might buy a stereo on the way home too

Oh and went back to buy that stuff ^^^ and they stocked jb weld... So I bought it and plugged those motherfuckers

MattJohn · « **Reply #97 on:** Apr 24, 2013, 08:17PM »

Picked up the car, it's pretty mad.

Gear changing is an absolute fark though.
The clutch feels fine, it's just the car doesn't want to go into gear?
Have you push it pretty hard, and sometimes pump the clutch ones or twice.

Looking on the net, other car forums say it could be a worn cable?

Ideas?

Kranzy · « **Reply #98 on:** Apr 24, 2013, 08:23PM »

What car is it? U12s don't have cable clutch. You may need to bleed the clutch or could be a leaky master or salve cylinder.

MattJohn · « **Reply #99 on:** Apr 24, 2013, 08:26PM »

1990 Nissan Pintara Ti ..

Is a bleed easy to DIY ?

Kranzy · « **Reply #100 on:** Apr 24, 2013, 09:55PM »

You'll need two people, but yeah easy enough.

MattJohn · « **Reply #101 on:** Apr 24, 2013, 10:02PM »

Oh okay, il read around and shiz. Could it just be siezed gear selector bushes too? It was super easy just before, before I started my car aha

Pure_Sincerity · « **Reply #102 on:** Apr 24, 2013, 10:06PM »

Slave won't make shifting hard, my slave fucked out ages ago and I had no hydraulic pressure right to the pedal, felt like a floppy dick.

MattJohn · « **Reply #103 on:** Apr 25, 2013, 08:06PM »

Hahaha true.. It's come a little better since last night. I'm gonna leave it and see what happens...

Today was good though, front shocks in, rear coilover sleeves in, she's pretty stiff.

Was gonna do camber but just cbf'd after that.

[posted from my broken down U12 pintara]

#fuckedalternatorlyf

MattJohn · « **Reply #104 on:** Apr 26, 2013, 12:57AM »

Will a Nissan navara alternator bolt on? Anyone know?

They're also a ka24e - rwd but.. Did a quick search, nothing.

Pure_Sincerity · « **Reply #105 on:** Apr 26, 2013, 08:29AM »

There's an alternator at Oxley wreckers.

MattJohn · « **Reply #106 on:** Apr 26, 2013, 06:28PM »

Nah, it could be good, but id rather buy new. I'm sick of fucking around, so may as well do something once and right.

It could just be a worn voltage regulator.. It's the main thing to go wrong with alternators. Easy fix hopefully, otherwise Repco wants $495 brand new.. Reconditioned one I have to enquirer about otherwise good ol eBay wants $200 for a naravra one

Edit:
Fook it il head out tomorrow.

MattJohn · « **Reply #107 on:** Apr 28, 2013, 05:04PM »

Alternator through a mate at repco, $412. Guttered but better than $520..

No the radiators fucked out. Thermo's don't turn on when the cars accserioes are on, which the gli did. So I think there's the problem. Other than that, Thermostat.

If I need new fans, I'm thinking about going alloy radiator triple core like Aaron's with new fans instead.

SSS · « **Reply #108 on:** Apr 30, 2013, 02:07PM »

Matt, sorry to do it....but alternator rebuilds are usually around $180 through auto elecs, i've been through 2 on my black U12 over the past 13 years (voltage regs died from heat from Cyl 1's header tube being in close proximity)

At least you know it's a brand spanker in any case.

noss · « **Reply #109 on:** May 1, 2013, 09:14AM »

if you can, install a heatshield between the exhaust and alternator, or wrap your extractors in heat wrap.

SSS · « **Reply #110 on:** May 1, 2013, 09:25AM »

+1

mine seemed to do the trick.

MattJohn · « **Reply #111 on:** May 1, 2013, 10:55AM »

Nah no worries man! I knew I was going down the expensive route but it works and is reliable ahaha.

Yeah I was going to get some heat tape ASAP ! Specially cause I knocked the extacors whilst getting the engine mount undone hahah. Blisters.

Fixed the rad fans too, read through some tech articles on here.. Ended up pulling the ECU heat sensor (big red plug where the top rad pipe goes into the head) off, sanded it back to brass and it works fine hahah. Must have been too sludgy to get a decent reading

Should be more updates soon, as long as not much more goes wrong.. Lol

Pure_Sincerity · « **Reply #112 on:** May 1, 2013, 11:41AM »

You mean coolant temp sensor, there is also another smaller one next to it you should look at cleaning.

The fans in the n15 don't work either, nor is the heat guage accurate, according to the huge the car is boiling after 2 minutes when Infact it's still stone cold. I cleaned those 2 sensors and replaced with new ones and still nothing.

MattJohn · « **Reply #113 on:** May 1, 2013, 11:58AM »

Do they come on when air cons on? If they don't it'l be your fans, not a heat sensor (as far as I know?)

Edit: re read, and I dunno man ahaha. SSS and Noss might.

Pure_Sincerity · « **Reply #114 on:** May 1, 2013, 11:59AM »

Pulled air con out brosephine.

noss · « **Reply #115 on:** May 1, 2013, 12:35PM »

most of the time the problem with the fans is the relays. they will fail. the cause is apparently dragging on the fans.. i.e. the bearings in the fans are on the way out, it ends up causing too much current draw and the fuse in the relay/fusible link/whatever you want to call it, will pop. not literally. i'm just looking for words to make it more interesting

other than that, there are 2 coolant sensors arent there? one for the gauge and one for the ecu to control fans & ignition retard etc? cheapest thing to change is the relays if you can go down to a wrecker and pick some new ones up. they usually fit in a pocket if you can go to a pick a part type one. otherwise they dont charge you much for them.

i ended up changing the entire fan setup with another one from another pintara and things went great.. then when i did the turbo install, i had to take all this out for the extra room i needed and i went to twin davies craig fans & controller. stupid thing is, the davies craig controller is.. wait for it.. easily damaged by heat.

i went through 2 davies craig controllers at about $60 each at the time before i cracked the shits. i ended up getting pringles around and he helped me wire the davies craig fans into the standard relays etc.

Pure_Sincerity · « **Reply #116 on:** May 1, 2013, 03:07PM »

Quote from: noss on May 1, 2013, 09:14AM

if you can, install a heatshield between the exhaust and alternator, or wrap your extractors in heat wrap.

I got shit 3 years ago for heat wrapping my extractors ?

Kranzy · « **Reply #117 on:** May 1, 2013, 03:17PM »

MattJohn · « **Reply #118 on:** May 1, 2013, 03:20PM »

Quote from: Pure_Sincerity on May 1, 2013, 03:07PM

I got shit 3 years ago for heat wrapping my extractors ?

That's cause you're suppose to use heat tape, not banana peels and rubber bands

Hahahaha I kid m8

noss · « **Reply #119 on:** May 1, 2013, 04:32PM »

wasn't me giving you shit. i heat wrapped my exhaust in my car. shit is itchy as hell. don't know if it works. either way who cares?

MattJohn · « **Reply #120 on:** May 1, 2013, 06:02PM »

I've put the adjustable toe/camber arms on one side and wound them out... And honesty there's not much difference in camber at all :$

There's a little, you'd have to wind it pretty far to notice change...

MattJohn · « **Reply #121 on:** May 1, 2013, 07:36PM »

I wound out as far as id dare wind whilst still feeling safe in the car lol
(About a cm of thread left either end).

It's pretty cambered, if you dropped a vertical line down from the guard you would hit the tyre, maybe almost the rim.
While on the stock side you wouldn't.
It's also quite pumped out

I have to ring the mechanic tomorrow and see where the fuck my spacers disappeared to... They went missing since I got the car back.. Probably forgot about them. 25mm. Should sit about hellaflush

MattJohn · « **Reply #122 on:** May 20, 2013, 11:28AM »

Sorry about the long updates..

Recently bought Neal's car, the yellow track car and towed it back from the goldy. Has a standard ka in it which was a shame :p Still an awesome bargin.

I've pulled the whiteline sways, front and rear off it, bushings were still good. The difference for something so small is incredible :$

The bucket seats are in the ti now as well, and the gearbox is nearly off to get the lightweight flywheel out. Have to finish that this arvo..

A rear strut brace and suspensions finished. I've opted out of the coilover sleeves just for a set of kings cause it was sitting too high.. With the sways, the difference between spring rates isn't too noticeable.
The rear wheels are tuckin, and the fronts are pretty low. Looks good, got some photos taken at downshift yesterday, so that was great

The 16x7's scrub incredibly bad, the guards are in need of a mad roll. I need to decide which wheels to put on, might just buy some bolt on flares. Pretty keen on a rocket bunny rear wing anyway :p

At downshif there was a car, can't remember what it was (shoulda paid more attention :p) had a really really slim battery. I've seen them in evo's before, not much else though. Anyone looked into them with our cars? Would be fantastic in our engine bay. Open up a lot of room around the box, for a bigger box or pod with shield/enclosure.. I'm trying to cut a hole in the spare standard light atm, like a funnel straight to the pod. With a slim battery that'd work a treat.

I'm also second thinking head shaving, and porting.. Talking to Neil briefly I got sorta turned off the idea, the money to power ratio sounds terrible. The money sounds better off in custom headers to match the ITB's.. Less compression though, which means a smaller cam grind I suppose though? Maybe the 264degree or whatever it is

Pure_Sincerity · « **Reply #123 on:** May 20, 2013, 11:38AM »

The slim battery was in the 650hp GTR 33.

MattJohn · « **Reply #124 on:** May 20, 2013, 04:53PM »

Easily power anyone's car on here then..

MattJohn · « **Reply #125 on:** May 25, 2013, 08:33PM »

Flywheels out.

The roll still couldn't save the guards.

Bolt on flares coming soooooon

Pure_Sincerity · « **Reply #126 on:** May 25, 2013, 08:42PM »

Put the leave kit back in and I guarantee it will not scrub

MattJohn · « **Reply #127 on:** May 26, 2013, 08:36PM »

No.

They're for sale actually, there was about a 20mm gap between the gaurd and the 16" rim.
Offers? I'm not too fussed

pedro666 · « **Reply #128 on:** May 27, 2013, 11:13AM »

I thought Neil had some work on the engine done, cams etc

noss · « **Reply #129 on:** May 27, 2013, 01:56PM »

he had the engine rebuilt with the bottom end balanced

pretty sad really. sold the car to save it from going to the wreckers and its now been ripped apart.

MattJohn · « **Reply #130 on:** May 27, 2013, 02:13PM »

Was a stock engine straight out the wreckers when I got it.

Flywheel and HD clutch attached (and rebuilt box). Hence why I took them off

MattJohn · « **Reply #131 on:** Jun 7, 2013, 05:22PM »

Sorry that this is taking so long to put together peeps.
Have trial for another job in a fortnight. If all goes well, things should be speedy.

Anyhoo, probably should post up some photo's aha.

Coming back from DownShift

I have exhaust wrap.. Just need to buy some new gaskets before I wrap them

The 16's looked cool, but the scrub was too hectic. Even with a roll

JB Weld bonded great. Plugged the 4 injector holes. Still have the openings where the butterfly's went through.
Recommendations for them? Already plugged the one of the end (Closest blue circle in the pic)

Mock up of where the oil cooler will sit.
Will be a little higher when the cross bar gets a bit of grinder love'n.
Personally think the front bar lets this car down a lot.. It looks so much cooler without a bumper.. and since no bumper doesn't sit well with Authorities, a different bar/lip is the answer.
Also, Corsair rears look so much better. Low mounted number plate ftw

Bought a 90mm MAF off Pedro.. Comparison:

If all goes well with this other job, the ITB's will be on asap. As will a FPR and 440cc Green tops.
The Oil cooler is a bit of a hassle, even Pirtek didn't have a piece that could mate the adapter plate to the block. It isn't over though.
Have a spare cam in my room, deciding whether to go for the 270 degree grind and sit steady or the 300 degree grind and see what happens.. The 270 is looking the better option, that way it eliminates the need for stiffer valve springs ect..

Dano's front bar looks mean, something like that would be good. Have TR-X skirts and a Corsair rear shouldn't be hard to find.

Theres a lot of stuff still, like brakes ect. Will talk when I have the money

Pure_Sincerity · « **Reply #132 on:** Jun 7, 2013, 07:23PM »

Cut the centre from the stock bar like mine, and mount the oil cooler in the centre In front of a twin core radiator and add a huge race spec splitter to the front bar and dump low on coils with your Enkei 92s, that would look fucking awesome on a u12.

MattJohn · « **Reply #133 on:** Jun 7, 2013, 10:04PM »

There's bullshit piping all across the front..
I don't even know what it's cooling, powersteering maybe? Never investigated aha

Pure_Sincerity · « **Reply #134 on:** Jun 8, 2013, 12:18PM »

Yeah it's power steering. Work around it, you have room.

MattJohn · « **Reply #135 on:** Jun 8, 2013, 12:52PM »

Maybe it would be better off to wait and see what the suburu clearance is like.

Waiting.. It's so hard

#impatient hahahahah fucking hashtags

pedro666 · « **Reply #136 on:** Jun 8, 2013, 10:56PM »

you can ditch that 10kg bar behind the cooler, should make it a bit easier to mount.

MattJohn · « **Reply #137 on:** Jun 14, 2013, 09:19PM »

Done mate

Although guys.. Something's fucked up.
I'm going with fuel, but hey, I'm not the smartest here...

It happened when I snapped BOTH battery studs, (that lock the clamps on to the + and - I replaced the bolts with some high tensile ones, cause I had some right fitting ones in my room).

The battery had to be disconnected to get a cover shield on (covers the overflow side and engine bay sides on the battery, looks a wee neater).

ANYWAY

The problem is, that it's running like shit. If I have no throttle, the car idles all over the place, often falling to about 100rpm and almost stalling. At first I thought maybe the butterfly valves in the intake mani / head were being stupid. But when I drive, during acceleration, itl keep revving but have a flat spot and to the car stays at that speed before resuming with the acceleration..

Eg if that doesn't make sense,
Take off, when you hit 4000 and you're traveling at say 80km/ph it will stay there even if you put your foot down more. A second later it will keep accelerating though.. Almost like a clutch slip.

I was thinking maybe injectors or fuel pump, cause it smells really 'petrolly'. My mate reckons pull out the plugs and look for petrol on the piston tops, and if there is, then there's an injection leak.
Otherwise I thought maybe no spark, at my old work, to test a spark plug / lead / coil pack on a Wipper snipper we would have the plug connected to the lead and place it on the block of the snipper and turn it over, looking for spark. Can I do this to my engine without wrecking it?

Pure_Sincerity · « **Reply #138 on:** Jun 14, 2013, 10:42PM »

If its "electrical" fault due to fucking with the battery or something, you could try and reset your ecu. To do this just unplug your battery overnight.

And as for your plug question, yes you can take the plug out of the head, hook it to a lead and start the car, just touch the plug top to your strut tower bolt. But it will only run on 3 cylinders.

If its smelling fuely, it's probably running rich, which may mean you fucked something ignition wise such as your crank angle sensor (inside dizzy) or a lead/plug etc due from a possible power surge ?

chr1S · « **Reply #139 on:** Jun 15, 2013, 10:32AM »

Is the AFM being a turd?

SSS · « **Reply #140 on:** Jun 15, 2013, 11:29AM »

Fyi, its rare that you'd cook a CAS, and if you did, I'd be suprised if the engine would fire at all, let alone idle. Disconnect your battery and stick it onto charge overnight.

MattJohn · « **Reply #141 on:** Jun 15, 2013, 06:04PM »

My gauge is reading ~12.4 volts on the battery, about 14.1 while running. Il disconnect it just incase, can't hurt.

If it is the AFM, that wouldn't be too bad. Have a 90mm one ready to slap on with Noss's stage 3 chip. Waiting on a pay check

MattJohn · « **Reply #142 on:** Jun 16, 2013, 02:35PM »

No luck with the battery disconnect.

Hit my mate up for a Turbo VL fuel pump. Talking to Pedro yesterday, when his pump went simular problems occurred..

Somebody back me that the VL ones are the same?

Edit:

Annnnnd drove to dickies beach today.. About 40mins. Just as the car was about home it's running fine?
Even stopped at Northlakes for a bit, started up again and it's still fine..

Not going to question it. Still going to get a spare pump. Also, I bought an adjustable FPR. Should at least look mean. Maybe even be able to boost the standard injectors to handle the ITB's? I'm not sure about it all?

pedro666 · « **Reply #143 on:** Jun 18, 2013, 12:26AM »

good to hear it sorted itself, maybe crap in the maf as chris suggested

MattJohn · « **Reply #144 on:** Jun 18, 2013, 11:59AM »

Yeah she's still a bit up and down, only about a 300rpm difference though, not 1300 :L

Get this 90mm on ASAP. Getting good shifts at the new job so I might make a proper project thread soon hahah

pedro666 · « **Reply #145 on:** Jun 27, 2013, 03:07AM »

if you need the 90mm filters let me know...

MattJohn · « **Reply #146 on:** Jun 29, 2013, 10:25PM »

Cheers man. I have a 100'ish mm k&n I can use though

All that's happened lately is defects and fines. Go go court next month.

Not gonna change much, just going to drive slower and mod plate more.

In other news, grabbed Aaron's TR-X kit, rear [language filter smackdown] brace and short shifter.
Seeing how much moneys left after fines this pay will see what happens.

MattJohn · « **Reply #147 on:** Jun 30, 2013, 04:48PM »

mmmf looks the goods hahaa

MattJohn · « **Reply #148 on:** Jul 10, 2013, 02:11PM »

Almost finished putting in a Pulsar short shifter. Only have to tighten the bolt holding the selcector rod to the shifter itself.

There's a bit of movement up and down on the shifter though (towards the road / sky).
Probably 5mm.

Does this matter?

MattJohn · « **Reply #149 on:** Jul 10, 2013, 04:54PM »

Not to worry, it was just my bushing had fallen down so the ball/socket wasn't supported properly.

It feels really good, shifting has at LEAST halved. Didn't think to measure hahah. The stick also sits lower, and more comfortable IMO. The spring is also a little stretched, causing the stick to flick back into the centre a lot faster / smoother. Probably stretch out soon and wear, but it's good for now aha

The heat shield above the Cat got some lov'n with a hammer / punch cause the shifter rubbed.

Took the LCA brace off, bent from either a Maccas speed bump or 2 fucking road mountains in the CBD.
Good though, the flex pipe isn't rubbing now cause terrible, terrible zorst rattle

pedro666 · « **Reply #150 on:** Jul 10, 2013, 10:25PM »

which shifter did you get ? the one from the group buy ages ago?
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NISSAN-SUNNY-SENTRA-N14-SR20-SHORT-SHIFTER-QUICK-pULSAR-SHIFTER-N15-SR16-91-00-/400492685214?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5d3f39679e

MattJohn · « **Reply #151 on:** Jul 11, 2013, 12:37AM »

I think so man. N14 as far as I know, was from Aaron's wrecking

MattJohn · « **Reply #152 on:** Jul 15, 2013, 02:29PM »

Waitin' for tax back. Then we'l be cheerin.

Hopefully have from pod to head all fabbed up with a mini battery to save space.

Ford Motorsport green tops and a stage 3 tune.

264 Cam shave.

Suspensions finished for now. Might consider U13 coilovers for the front soon. Adjustable ftw.

A mate took me for a spin in his pump fuel 33 that's making 620HP atw. Shits crazy. Such an inspiration to get shit done ahaha. Thinking about ripping my back seats out and having a half cage too.

It would be good to turbo the KA once it's ready, but I hate our gearboxes. Rather an SR. Dilemma's.

Can anyone shed some light on which leads go to what on the MAF? Will have to put the 90mm on soon, would be good to do it myself aha.
On a quick search there's talk of 12V, 5V and ground.
I have 3 wires coming off the Q45, black, white and black&white. The black splits though, making a 4th wire. Assuming these are both ground?
Pedro?

pedro666 · « **Reply #153 on:** Jul 15, 2013, 05:04PM »

i think its..
12v black/white--5v white---black ground , wire together then to the ka black.

Q45 (VH45DE):------------------------------------------: (KA24E)
Black\White(OR RED OR ORANGE)---- (12V)------BLACK\WHITE
Black X2------------------- (GROUND)---------------------BLACK
White----------------------- (5v)--------------------------White
I think it right, open to corrections.

fwd sr boxes are crap unless you go a 50(ka) in a sr box, or 70 series. 3rd gear goes at about 150kw.

MattJohn · « **Reply #154 on:** Jul 20, 2013, 06:51PM »

Grabbed Aaron's bottom end today, then got his bottom end off the car hahaah.
Lighter flywheel, same HD clutch & forgies.

Il update tomorrow, make a project thread for ya'll hahah.