Author Topic: So, I've decided on a Bluebird U13... (Read 19698 times)

BuuBox · « **Reply #30 on:** Aug 6, 2006, 01:52AM »

It's a manual. Not too sure what oil to use to quieten it down - probably hasn't ever been changed.

I'll have to look into the timing chain, quite noisy, but only at idle. Doesn't go away though, unless the car isn't idling!

mortz · « **Reply #31 on:** Aug 6, 2006, 03:16AM »

Aaah, the very friendly Series 1 rattle..... Easily fixed if you don't mind having your hands stuck in a tight place

I'll PM you some info on where to find both the offending guides.

Alister · « **Reply #32 on:** Aug 6, 2006, 05:40PM »

Quote from: BuuBox on Aug 6, 2006, 01:52AM

It's a manual. Not too sure what oil to use to quieten it down - probably hasn't ever been changed.

I'll have to look into the timing chain, quite noisy, but only at idle. Doesn't go away though, unless the car isn't idling!

That's fine, I wouldn't be worried at all.
As long as it goes away once you start driving (when the engine is fully warmed up).
Even after you remove the guides, it will still rattle a bit. The KA24DE is a great engine but it isn't a sample of brilliant refinement.

BuuBox · « **Reply #33 on:** Aug 6, 2006, 09:38PM »

Does the rattle cause any issues other than the annoying noise when the car is idling? It does it whether it's warmed up or not - but only noticable at idle. I'll see what I can do about the top guide, but I think the bottom guide is beyond me. I'm paranoid the chain's going to snap! Want to do a gearbox service before anything else... And change the rocker cover gasket so the distributor doesn't give up.

Thanks mortz for the PM, much apreciated! Makes it easy to see where the issue is coming from.

Just thought I'd add, I'm really liking the U13. Very nice car...

Alister · « **Reply #34 on:** Aug 6, 2006, 10:23PM »

Glad you like it mate, they are really something.

I didn't remove my guides, the way I see it was that Nissan put it there for an engineering purpose (even though it was removed in Series 2). The rattling on start up didn't bother me at all and it only really happened on cold starts.

BuuBox · « **Reply #35 on:** Aug 8, 2006, 01:36AM »

Here's some pictures I took. Crappy camera and it looks ordinary, but hey...

It's going for a cut 'n' polish on Thursday, so that'll be nice. I've just got one more question... How big is the petrol tank? I thought it was 60L, but the fuel light came on so I filled up - only ~42L went in.

bungs · « **Reply #36 on:** Aug 8, 2006, 01:38AM »

Looks nice mate *thumbsup*

Alister · « **Reply #37 on:** Aug 8, 2006, 04:50AM »

60L tank in all AUS U13s.
The fuel light normally first comes on when there's at least 15L left. I used to run mine for about 100KM after the flight light first came on and then fill up and I always only managed between 48-55L.
Looks very nice by the way....

Also what happened to the foggies?

BuuBox · « **Reply #38 on:** Aug 8, 2006, 09:40AM »

One's in the boot - don't know what happened to the other one...

Doesn't really bother me, but I'll be on the lookout for one. I've got the left I think.

wicked · « **Reply #39 on:** Aug 8, 2006, 11:38AM »

Nice looking car, could look even better with a slight drop in the suspension.

imaspy · « **Reply #40 on:** Aug 8, 2006, 12:10PM »

you prick! it looks great

much better than in the pictures on the carsales website

BuuBox · « **Reply #41 on:** Aug 8, 2006, 06:13PM »

I really want to drop it a bit, but as you can see from my driveway I'm not too sure how much I'll be able to without leaving half the car behind every morning... live in the Dandenongs, so there's heaps of pot holes etc.

I'll work out how much clearance I've got and decide what to do!

Anyone got a spare left fog light? haah

imaspy · « **Reply #42 on:** Aug 8, 2006, 06:16PM »

just outta interest mate, what did you end up paying? all up?

Ka-Bluey · « **Reply #43 on:** Aug 8, 2006, 06:55PM »

Quote from: BuuBox on Aug 8, 2006, 06:13PM

I really want to drop it a bit, but as you can see from my driveway I'm not too sure how much I'll be able to without leaving half the car behind every morning... live in the Dandenongs, so there's heaps of pot holes etc.

I'll work out how much clearance I've got and decide what to do!

Anyone got a spare left fog light? haah

Those rims look to be 16inch wheels, i think you should be ok by just using Low King Springs, mind you, you can go lower with Kingys as they dont make anything lower then Low Springs for the U13

BuuBox · « **Reply #44 on:** Aug 8, 2006, 07:38PM »

They're 17" rims, the ride height make 'em look quite small. I think king lows might be ok (had a XF Fairmont with equivelent of king lows and that was ok), but the Saab 900 in the background of the first photo can't get up the driveway without hitting a few things on the way up.

Paid just a hint over 6k all up. Happy enough with that (the dude wouldn't budge from 6k). Came with a 3 year warrenty (not that it means much), 12 months rego, and a RWC obviously.

imaspy · « **Reply #45 on:** Aug 8, 2006, 08:14PM »

nice, sounds like a good deal. of course the warranty is useless

if i had just a bit more cash i would go for something like that, but time is my enemy unfortunately

greenbird · « **Reply #46 on:** Aug 9, 2006, 08:41AM »

Quote from: imaspy on Aug 8, 2006, 08:14PM

nice, sounds like a good deal. of course the warranty is useless if i had just a bit more cash i would go for something like that, but time is my enemy unfortunately

Why do you say these warranty's are useless?
I believe they are great. They will only cover the hard mechanical failure, not consumables, but they are still worth it.
For example: My g/f's toyota surf.... Between the 3 month dealer warranty and the 3 year extended warranty (which cost us $600) the car has had: The head off, replaced head gasket, crack tested and machined head, new timing belt, reconditioned radiator, new thermostat, new injectors, new glowplugs, engine out to crack test the crankshaft and replace all of the big end bearings, new clutch and a new cam belt idler pulley bolt (it snapped).
Total cost to us: Just over $1000.
So, do you now think that these warranties are useless?
It saved us thousands and thousands of dollars..... Sure, it wont cover the little things, but if something major goes wrong, it's fantastic!

imaspy · « **Reply #47 on:** Aug 12, 2006, 09:09PM »

no i think he means that a lot of the caompanies that provide these warranties to many yeards are a bit dodgy. they skimp on parts or they just dont do a good job in the first place, or they refuse to cover certain things under the warranty that they should.

anyway, buubox, how slack are car yard guys! your car is still advertised for sale on carpoint!

BuuBox · « **Reply #48 on:** Aug 14, 2006, 12:19PM »

I just removed the top chain guide, and it definatly made an improvement. Could see the wear marks from where it was rubbing. It's still sorta noisy, so probably the bottom guide. I don't really have the tools to do this one, so is it alright to leave it with just the top guide removed, and get rid of the bottom one later on? I'll get a mate to help.Bloody lost one of the rocker cover nuts this morning too...

What happened to imaspy's thread?

imaspy · « **Reply #49 on:** Aug 14, 2006, 02:08PM »

i deleted it as i didnt need the advice anymore. im not getting the car. i was worried about the k's and the price - it was the absolute roof of what i can afford, and after insurance and possible other probs, it woulda left me with bugger all cash, and i have no job right now. sigh.

BuuBox · « **Reply #50 on:** Aug 16, 2006, 03:20PM »

Hrm... some bad news.

Looks like the diff has some issues, and that's what has been causing the gearbox noise. Took it to a trans place this afternoon for an oil change, but the oil was relatively fresh, so they just put some stuff in it to shut it up (with a bit of luck). It's got a leak from the drive shaft seal too, but that's the least of my worries.

I'll see what the warrenty is going to cover with this, got my fingers crossed. Otherwise, I'm pretty stuffed.

Spose it's my fault, should have got it checked over a little more closely. Thought I'd done enough (took it to a mechanic).

Edit: Does anyone know where I could pick up another transmission relatively cheaply? I think I could change it myself (with a few friends). The dudes today said that I wouldn't get much change from $1500, so might be a cheaper option. Or drive it until it blows up.

Wolf In Sheep’s Clothing · « **Reply #51 on:** Aug 16, 2006, 04:14PM »

Ill give you some prices from my experience.

My old LX bluebird had an engine problem when I bought it, to have the engine replaced with a 2nd hand engine from a wreck cost me $1700 including labour. I believe it was $700 for the engine and $1000 for labour, labour wise it should be the same as a gearbox as its easier to drop the engine out to get the gearbox out.

My Attesa 4wd bluebird (bless its soul) cost me $1100 for gearbox and is going to cost me $1600 labour (including a $400 clutch). So there you have it.

So it will cost you around $1000 for labour and gearbox should vary id say a few hundred for a FWD box as the FWD box should be relatively easy to find unlike the 4wd box.

$1500 is a good estimate I think.

Alister · « **Reply #52 on:** Aug 17, 2006, 02:52AM »

Ahh tough break man...
The thing with U13 parts is that prices vary so bloody much. Since they are rare (ish), some wreckers will charge through the roof for parts whilst others will give you pretty much give it away to you since parts are hard to shift (go Sandgate Wreckers! Looms, HUD gauge cluster, HUD display unit for $300!).
Check out partslocator.com.au or even getting a box freighted from Sandgate Wreckers (QLD) may work out for a reasonable price. Depends who you speak to there though. They had three U13s awhile ago.

BuuBox · « **Reply #53 on:** Aug 23, 2006, 01:05AM »

Hrm, wishing I didn't buy this car... but anyway. Live and learn.

Is removing the lower timing chain guide much of an issue? I've set aside a Saturday morning with a mechanic mate, so I'll see what I can achieve. I hope it's as simple as moving the alternator out of the way, removing the cover, and off it comes. We'll see! That'll shut up one noise.

Ultratune has their second attempt of stoping the driveshaft seal leak tomorrow morning, bit worried that there's something chewing out the seals? Hope not. Can't believe how fast the gearbox oil is running out - parked the car on the gutter, thought it had rained, but that was just gear oil :S

AHHHH!

On a more positive note, changed the oil. Put in 15/50 Shell, see how that goes. Better than whatever was in it - at the least, I'll use it to flush the system. Might be a bit thick. Seems to be less sluggish though, after the oil change.

greenbird · « **Reply #54 on:** Aug 23, 2006, 08:31AM »

I've removed the lower chain guide on my car. It's pretty simple to get in there, just fiddly and time consuming. You have to remove the alternator and all of the brackets from that part of the motor. Then remove the right hand engine mount (you may need to support that side of the motor with a jack from underneath).
There's a bracket that the engine mount bolts to, which is then bolted to the engine. I could remove all but one bolt from it, and the bracket was in the way of one of the timing cover bolts that I needed to get to. In the end, i used a large screwdriver to pivot the bracket away from the block and timing cover, using the bolt that was still in there as the hinge. (hope you understand what i mean......).
removing the timing cover was easy from there on in. Just make sure you don't drop any bolts down where the timing chain goes. That would be bad. Perhaps plug the hole with a rag whilst you are working in there?
You will need to buy some Loctite 518 to seal up the timing cover as you put it back on. There's no gasket in there to seal it up, so you need to use the 518.
Here is a pic. I've circled the chain guide that you are looking for and the bracket that i had to pry away to get to the lower timing cover bolt.

Hope this helps.
Dan.

Alister · « **Reply #55 on:** Aug 23, 2006, 11:24AM »

The KA24DE runs beautifully with 5w-xx oil in it

The engine just loves thinner oil.

If UltraTune aren't getting the job done, take it somewhere else.

BuuBox · « **Reply #56 on:** Aug 23, 2006, 12:10PM »

Thanks for the information, looks easy enough - just fiddly and time consuming (like everything on cars). I'll see how I go...

I'll try some thinner oil in it next time - engine has 200,000kms on it though.

Alister · « **Reply #57 on:** Aug 23, 2006, 11:11PM »

No worries mate.
I used 5W-30 in it for over 15 000km and it loved it. Got rid of it with about 201000km on the clock.
My own research had told me that the KA24DE ran well on thin oil and when I took it to my mechanic he said the same thing.

SAIUN · « **Reply #58 on:** Aug 24, 2006, 12:07AM »

Sorry to hijack, but on the topic of oil, anyone know any numbers that run well in the KA24E, or is it pretty similar to the KA24DE? I know which ones I can put in there, but hoping for a few pearls of wisdom...

rathies · « **Reply #59 on:** Aug 24, 2006, 12:15AM »

magical search button *cha ching*

http://www.antrx.com/smf/index.php?topic=8397.0