Author Topic: What clutch to order for u13 Attesa (Read 4809 times)

nitrouz · « **on:** Oct 17, 2007, 07:17PM »

Ok the time has come to order a new clutch for my u13 attesa, yet i do not know where to start and neither does anyone ive asked.

My guess would be to order a clutch kit for a Gtir is this correct?

Does anyone recommend what type/material or anything? my driving style is that of the usual youth with a turbo import. hard acceleration. I dont care about drivability as much i driven cars with button clutches etc i just want the bitch to grip, and hard. but not hard enough to break gearbox's.
any advice would be appreciated.

Budgie · « **Reply #1 on:** Oct 17, 2007, 07:39PM »

Quote from: nitrouz on Oct 17, 2007, 07:17PM

button clutches etc i just want the bitch to grip, and hard. but not hard enough to break gearbox's.

I think keeping the clutch as the weakest link in a U12/U13 ATTESA is a good idea... especailly if your car has more power than stock.

Its the launches that destroy the U12/U13/GTiR boxes and HIGH torque in 2nd/3rd gears.

I will leave the actual clutch recommendations upto the SR guys

nitrouz · « **Reply #2 on:** Oct 17, 2007, 07:50PM »

yeah will be keeping it the weekest link for sure. :-) thanks for ur input.
So 2nd and 3rd have High torque in these boxes do they? i noticed that they pull very hard in 2nd. and i guess in 3rd too now i think about it... overtaking on the high way . lol .. when i first bought her i overtook like 5 cars in one manouver and hit the speed limiter without knowin it..
i was like:

wtf is wrong its chuggin!! looked down and was sittin on 180kph. DAYUM!

Budgie · « **Reply #3 on:** Oct 17, 2007, 08:06PM »

I meant if your car is modded... and putting out high torque figures, 2nd and 3rd gears can be stripped/fucked up by that torque. Tends to be a recurring tend among FWD pulsar owners running the 32 series boxes and the 50 series boxes... also some people with quick U13's.

nitrouz · « **Reply #4 on:** Oct 17, 2007, 08:19PM »

ah ok well it does run higher boost and has a few bolt ons but nothing major.

Luke · « **Reply #5 on:** Oct 18, 2007, 02:41PM »

I managed to make my gearbox explode (Yes, it really did!) with a standard engine and standard clutch, be very careful, U13 Attesa Gearboxes suck!!! I have done a lot more work to my engine now and I have also got a stronger clutch. Ring xtreme clutches, I think they will know what your talking about if you say you have an AWD U13 with an SR20 in it. I didn't order my clutch so I didn't deal with them, but that's where I got mine from, I think it's 1050Kg. Standard is 600Kg???

nitrouz · « **Reply #6 on:** Oct 18, 2007, 02:45PM »

Ah ok... So advice for making my gearbox last as long as possible?? no launching? .. rolling start races only lol.
How do u find the drivability of your xtreme clutch?

*edit*
found where the xtreme ones are: http://www.xtremeclutch.com.au/catalogue/x_kits/x_kit_KNI24003.htm
cant order direct from them tho i dont think

LUP15 · « **Reply #7 on:** Oct 19, 2007, 03:03PM »

this is a really weird thread in that how can the clutch make ur gearbox broken? in the end its ur foot and the amount of torque u have. id think u would not want the clutch to be slipping at the power output u have. if the box is gonna break cause u got too much power and torque no clutch is gonna save ur box

having said that there are clutches that may be friendlier to the gearbox in that when it engages it doesnt bite straight away and gives a bit of slip. clutches that bite aggressively can still be slipped just takes more effort and user skill

JelloBello · « **Reply #8 on:** Oct 19, 2007, 03:12PM »

I guess the idea is that the clutch slips before the box breaks... although I'm with you LUP15 if "u got too much power and torque no clutch is gonna save ur box"

that's why god invented ppg/par.

just adding to what budgie said, If you have a look at a dismantled gearset you can see that 3rd gear is physically pathetic compared to 1st and 2nd, which it why it seems to be the one that always breaks.

nitrouz · « **Reply #9 on:** Oct 19, 2007, 03:19PM »

yeah i know what ya sayin.. So what would the pro's and cons be with an 800kg one and a 1050kg one?
is it just that the 800kg one will slip before the 1050kg one?

Luke · « **Reply #10 on:** Oct 19, 2007, 03:41PM »

The clutch I have is very heavy. It is hard to push in but you still have all your drivability there. I would go for it, I have no regrets with it.

I just read my last post back, it sounds like I think that a stronger clutch will make you gearbox less likely to break, I know thats not true. I was just trying to put accross that even with a standard clutch you can still destroy your gearbox. So, I would say, there is no point buying a weaker clutch over a stronger one if you are only doing it to protect your gearbox, cos the standard one can do the damage anyway.

Atleast I know what I mean.

nitrouz · « **Reply #11 on:** Oct 19, 2007, 04:06PM »

i Understand .. lol .
example...
Dumping a heavier clutch is more likely to cause more damage then dumping a lighter one as a lighter one has more slip?
not that im gonna go dumpin it all over the shop anyway.. u just gotta be more careful in driving the heavier one.. correct??
this is turning into a weird thread haha

LUP15 · « **Reply #12 on:** Oct 20, 2007, 12:24PM »

i have a heavy pressure plate as well (not sure what clutch i have) but it is very easy to slip it. i guess theres a balance, heavy pressure plate with easy driveabilty or light pressure plate with a bitier clutch.

when i replace my clutch combo im gonna try and find a balance point cause i find changing gears quickly is kinder hard, particularly mountain driving. probably get a lighter flywheel at the same time.... may as well throw in a ppg gearbox too haha... mmm $$$$$

nitrouz · « **Reply #13 on:** Oct 20, 2007, 02:56PM »

is it worth getting the flywheel lightened while i have it all out? its gonna go get machined anyways

LUP15 · « **Reply #14 on:** Oct 20, 2007, 05:53PM »

from what ive been reading its worth while getting a lightened flywheel. i prolly get a new one rather than machine meat off the stock.

however if i got a lightened flywheel id probably get something around the 6kg one. stock is about 9kg and ultra light is around 4.5kg or something

nitrouz · « **Reply #15 on:** Oct 20, 2007, 08:53PM »

bit too broke atm to get a new lighter one.. is there any disadvantage of lightening the one there? would i be better to just leave it as it is..?

LUP15 · « **Reply #16 on:** Oct 21, 2007, 02:30AM »

no disadvantage as long as the flywheel is in good condition and u dont take too much meat off

nitrouz · « **Reply #17 on:** Oct 21, 2007, 12:18PM »

wouldnt lightening it upset the balance of it though. bit unsure bout it hey i might leave it the way it is.

20vgs · « **Reply #18 on:** Oct 26, 2007, 07:45PM »

if you want to talk to someone who knows more than a little about clutches for gtir/ u13 attesa, ring jim berry at race clutch in brisbane.he does performance clutches for anything from the control clutches for v8 utes, to porsche, skylines, 180s, all nissan imports. he uses 4/5 puck carbotic button clutches which give much better slip at take off than most others on the market,as well as seriously good custom made twin plates.he's not "cheap", but neither is your gearbox for any of our cars.

LUP15 · « **Reply #19 on:** Oct 27, 2007, 11:02AM »

my friend is using one of jims clutches in his n15. they hold very well but its very hard to slip. obviously there are different clutches available. but the point im gonna make is that i dont really think we need a custom clutch unless ur pulling some very serious power. 250kw+ i rather save that money and put it towards a gearbox. im sure the xtreme clutches are good enough for most of us.

also regarding the flywheel, as long as the wheel is machined true then there will not b any balance issues