Author Topic: Accidental driveshaft removal (Read 3151 times)

Febrile · « **on:** Mar 1, 2004, 11:10PM »

I recall reading about noss and budgie having a bit of an accident when changing noss' suspension, but I can't for the life of me find the post. Am I right in my recall, noss, in believing you accidentally pulled out the driveshaft? If so, can you tell me how it happened and what things to look out for so I can make sure it doesn't happen to me, please?

Jtas · « **Reply #1 on:** Mar 2, 2004, 03:02AM »

i think that it just popped out, when it did they had the strut disconnected from the steering knuckle, and also the swaybar removed, as they were replacing it. (i think)

When i did my cv boots, the driveshafts did not pop out!. it took a bit of convincing to get them out, and that was with the strut off the steering knuckle, tie rod off, and the shaft out of the hub. If you had the strut and the swaybar off i reckon that almost any driveshaft would fall out just because of gravity.

good luck with it.

Febrile · « **Reply #2 on:** Mar 2, 2004, 08:18AM »

I'm probably going to loop some rope around the knuckle and tie it to something in the engine bay, just to be sure it doesn't fall. It's got the stabiliser bers and such to rest, on, but one can never be too careful.

evenflow_trx · « **Reply #3 on:** Mar 2, 2004, 09:22AM »

Narxysus, refer to these threads:

http://www.antrx.com/smf/index.php?topic=2955.0

http://www.antrx.com/smf/index.php?topic=1750.0

noss · « **Reply #4 on:** Mar 2, 2004, 12:30PM »

yeah i belted it with a mallet a little too hard by accident.

chr1S · « **Reply #5 on:** Mar 2, 2004, 06:04PM »

lol a little 2 hard?

Jtas · « **Reply #6 on:** Mar 2, 2004, 06:23PM »

this is gonna sound silly, but, i dont see whats wrong with the driveshafts coming out accidentally while youve got the struts off. your gearbox oil is probably due to be changed anyway. and this just makes sure that you change it!! although if youve changed it recently dont let them fall out... and if they come out drain the gearbox properly, take out the drain plug, so that you get as much of the old stuff out as possible. then refill it when the driveshafts and drain plugs back in

Febrile · « **Reply #7 on:** Mar 6, 2004, 11:33PM »

On a related note, I started doing the changeover today. Tried to do the rears first, and got as far as the hub nut. Man, that bitch is screwed down tight. Any tips on how to ease extraction? I'm not working with quite the right tools, so that's a bummer - I might have to go and spend $150 on a decent socket set.

noss · « **Reply #8 on:** Mar 6, 2004, 11:36PM »

you dont have to remove the hub nut. the gregory's manual is wrong. you can pull out the entire assembly including the hub quite easily.

Febrile · « **Reply #9 on:** Mar 7, 2004, 12:10AM »

Ok, I had a good look at it, and I take it I just need to undo the 4 bolts behind the hub to get the whole hub assembly off, is that right?

noss · « **Reply #10 on:** Mar 7, 2004, 12:55AM »

no you dont take the hub/brake disc off at all, the hub/brake disc stays attached to the strut.

Febrile · « **Reply #11 on:** Mar 7, 2004, 11:21AM »

I understand what you mean, now.Â I went out to carry on and got as far as removing the parallel link bolt.Â I now can't for the life of me get any of the bolts on the radius rod undone.Â They're all just too tight!Â So now I'm basically fucked, unless perhaps if I go out and buy craploads of expensive tools.

Not being able to carry on any further just because you can't apply enough torque to a few nuts and bolts = raped in the ass.Â

noss · « **Reply #12 on:** Mar 7, 2004, 11:34AM »

do you have any strong mates or something you can use as an extension. also using wd40 and a rubber mallet of some sort helps a lot. when me & budgie & budgies mate xav did the suspension on our cars we just used a 40 piece sidchrome set that budgie's dad has, so might be an idea to ask uncles or grand fathers for some help/lend of a socket/spanner set.

also its much easier as a 2 man job if its the first time you've done this which it sounds like it is.

Febrile · « **Reply #13 on:** Mar 7, 2004, 12:27PM »

The main problem I think is that there isn't enough room for proper leverage. Plus, the spanners I'm using aren't as big as they could be, I suppose. The nut that's giving me the most hassles, though, is one I can't get to with a socket because the hub is in the way, and I can't get the hub off because it's on really freaking tight and I don't have the right socket for it. Curses!

Budgie · « **Reply #14 on:** Mar 7, 2004, 12:30PM »

We also used big spanners and rubber mallets alot. Alot of bolts were very tight on noss's car compared to mine... might have been rodger and his rattle gun though

.

What ever you do, dont take the hub off. You don't need too mate!

Febrile · « **Reply #15 on:** Mar 7, 2004, 12:39PM »

Ok I love you guys.

I don't have a rubber mallet, but I do have a decent hammer, and an old pair of undies, which I proceeded to wrap around the spanner and then apply the hammer. With a bit of persistence, it came off. That and the fact that i's been soaking in RP7 for a while!

Alright, here's to hoping I can get other things off a little easier than that. I'll keep you's posted.

Febrile · « **Reply #16 on:** Mar 7, 2004, 01:49PM »

Ok, I've progressed! Yay! Both the rear suspension units are now out of the car. One question - the "bound rubber" in both rear units is long gone - should I replace it? (The bound rubber is the corrugated shround that goes around the strut, inside the spring.)

Pringles · « **Reply #17 on:** Jun 1, 2004, 11:56PM »

i'd say yes to replacing the bound rubber

Febrile · « **Reply #18 on:** Jun 2, 2004, 01:31AM »

Thanks Pringles.Â 3 months too late, but thanksÂ Â

Pringles · « **Reply #19 on:** Jun 5, 2004, 09:53PM »

lol wopes sorry i just saw it opes