Author Topic: Clutch (Read 4530 times)

Wolf In Sheep’s Clothing · « **on:** Jul 4, 2006, 11:36AM »

Hey Guys, I have to replace my Attesa's clutch because its way too heavy for the car and I don't really want a broken gearbox. So anyone had this done that can tell me what clutch they used, how much the clutch cost and how much the install cost?

Craazy · « **Reply #1 on:** Jul 4, 2006, 02:37PM »

all i can say is, what clutch is in there now??

i would advice keeping the heavier clutch, coz it is the first place of problems with the car. and replacing a good clutch with one of lesser quality is pointless as you will only be replacing it more frequently.

doing the clutch in the attesa is not an easy task and does cost a bit. last time i replaced mine just from a standard to a heavier duty clutch it cost me 1500, 6-700 for the clutch then 700 for labour, they will pull the engine out to do it.

Craazy · « **Reply #2 on:** Jul 4, 2006, 02:48PM »

oops didnt read you project thread, in that case then it sounds like what my car has done but mine doesnt drive at the moment and may be more than just the clutch even though it isnt anything more than an uprated standard clutch, these things must just be temperamental.

so 50,000kms is all i get from a standard crutch...... not happy jan

Wolf In Sheep’s Clothing · « **Reply #3 on:** Jul 4, 2006, 04:54PM »

You think it could be more than the clutch? I really hope not

Trust me the clutch I have is far too heavy for the car. Very uncomfortable to drive in traffic, the previous owner put the clutch in so I don't know exactly what it is.

I'm still going to go for something heavy duty just not as heavy duty. Something that can support my power goal of around 180awkw, I don't mind if it slips a little.

I got quoted 5-600 for clutch and 1200 for installation. I thought that was a bit steep, then again thats a wellknown garage that can afford to charge through the nose.

I'm gonna look around hopefully find somewere thats a gearbox specialist and see what they think. I really want it to be done right the 1st time.

Craazy · « **Reply #4 on:** Jul 4, 2006, 06:26PM »

if you want something that is going to be good, i would suggest getting the clutch that is in there now out and have a look then make the decision. for all intents and purposes it only be a brass button puck clutch, when these wear out they act like normal clutchs, but then it could also be a twin plate..... who knows. but i know that a heavy duty clutch for 5-600 wont do the job of holding 180kw's at bay for very long, it struggled with 150kw's..... it may seem steep but i reckon either an EXEDY hyper single kit or an OS giken super single kit would suit your needs. that is what i was looking at getting. the kit that fits i am pretty sure is the one for a S14 silvia. these come as a clutch, flywheel and pressure plate kit so its just a straight swap and no machining.

this should handle your power output no probs and be nice to drive with, maybe take a drive of cars with specific clutchs in them before making up your mind aswell, as you might not get what your after just by going by what someone says.

check it all out before spending your money, it may take a little longer to get what you want but atleast you shouldnt have to do it for a long time.

oh yeah, how do you drive the car most of the time?? ie hard and bouncing the rev limiter every change and dumping the clutch every chance you get.

this will also help determine what type of clutch to get coz if you do what i did and get a 6-700 heavy duty clutch and decide to go to the drags and maybe do a track day then thats the wrong choice of clutch for that type of work

as for the price of installation, they would have done the job before so know whats involved and have given you a reasonable price. chances are they will have the car back to you pretty quick. if you were to go with a workshop that charges you half that, then you wont get the car back as quick and more than likely could end up costing you more. which of course is the worst scenario.

all in all up to you, do your research and you should come out on top

Wolf In Sheep’s Clothing · « **Reply #5 on:** Jul 4, 2006, 06:41PM »

Cheers mate your help is great. I think the current clutch is a 3 puk ceramic button clutch with a 900kg rating (that is what I was told by previous owner). Which doesn't mean much to me I don't know much on the topic of clutches. Ill defiantly have it out and talk to an expert on what will be OK for the car.

In saying that I drive very carefully, never dump the clutch because drag is not my style. I will be taking it to the track, wakefield about once or twice a year.

and the car doesn't make 180kw yet, but thats were I plan to go.

Iv driven my friends s15 Silvia that has a cushion button clutch and thats far softer and is supporting his 210awkw, has a nice feel to it so something with a similar feel will be nice.

Ill most likely pay a little more for reassurance that the job is done well.

Craazy · « **Reply #6 on:** Jul 5, 2006, 05:15PM »

yeah, that'd be the way to go, if that is what you were after then you can get the same for an s14 and out the s14 one in your car.

i did some thinking on it and remembered that it is most likely going to be a pressure plate that has too much clamping force for the actual clutch plate, being miss matched i would say that someone has done a bit of a stuff up and then the person driving the car originally didnt bed the clutch in properly, coz they are the same as brakes, not bed in properly and you run into probs.

they should be able to match it all to your requirements there at croydon race, they are top blokes, when i went there a couple of years ago they were a big help

Wolf In Sheep’s Clothing · « **Reply #7 on:** Jul 5, 2006, 05:38PM »

Cheers mate +karma for the help.

Craazy · « **Reply #8 on:** Jul 6, 2006, 09:52AM »

no probs, +karma for attesa drivers

Budgie · « **Reply #9 on:** Jul 6, 2006, 02:43PM »

Hugh, was your ATTESA's clutch a stock level item? Not a heavy duty?

Craazy · « **Reply #10 on:** Jul 6, 2006, 06:57PM »

no mine was a heavy duty exedy item

phreeky · « **Reply #11 on:** Jul 12, 2006, 10:31AM »

i'd recommend making sure it's actually the clutch that's heavy and not something else playing up. it's very common for dodgy clutch hydraulics to cause it to feel real heavy, little things like that.

check the colour of the clutch fluid in the resevoir, it should look like new brake fluid. if not, bleed it.

Wolf In Sheep’s Clothing · « **Reply #12 on:** Jul 12, 2006, 10:54AM »

I'm quiet sure its the clutch although ill check the fluid when I get home today. Iv noticed it gets worse the longer your driving. say if youfor a drive around the block the car will be fine, but if you go somewere far away by the end of the journey you can barely shift.

phreeky · « **Reply #13 on:** Jul 12, 2006, 11:50AM »

yeah probably hydraulic then, not getting enough movement at the slave cylinder

i had a thing happening once where the car would be fine until i drove on the highway with aircon on for a few minutes - clutch dropped to the floor. turn the aircon off and it'd be good after 30 seconds again. that little bit of extra heat was causing issues with the seals or the fluid in the hydraulic master or slave.

with the slave cylinder sitting so close to the turbo it would get very, very hot

p.s. i hate hydraulic systems

Wolf In Sheep’s Clothing · « **Reply #14 on:** Jul 12, 2006, 08:46PM »

I had a look at the fluid, Its a Grayish colour. Is that what colour it meant to be. I'm starting to lean to wards the hydraulics being at fault here.

Also just outta curiosity what kind of clutches are you guys running. KG rating and the likes?

Jono · « **Reply #15 on:** Jul 12, 2006, 08:48PM »

It sounds like your fluid could have water in it since the clutch doesn't work as well when the engine bay heats up. I'd suggest replacing your clutch fluid.

Wolf In Sheep’s Clothing · « **Reply #16 on:** Jul 12, 2006, 08:49PM »

Any Idea how to drain the fluid?

Jono · « **Reply #17 on:** Jul 12, 2006, 09:08PM »

Undo the bleed nipple and pump the pedal until there's none left.

phreeky · « **Reply #18 on:** Jul 13, 2006, 01:03AM »

u could do that but once some air gets in the fluid wont move from pumping

alternatively bleed like normal (just like you're bleeding a single brake line, the slave cylinder has a nipple and stuff) but try running metho through it first to clean it all out, and then bleed with brake fluid. that's only really necessary if there is lots of gunk in there (i.e. either hose section or master/slave seals breaking up), otherwise you could just bleed it pure and simple (just brake fluid straight up).

gray is bad, it should look like new fluid (actually quite clear, easily see through). it's the same theory as brake fluid boiling when they can't cope and overheat, the reason some tracks will make sure you've bled the brakes before you head out.

Wolf In Sheep’s Clothing · « **Reply #19 on:** Jul 13, 2006, 10:04AM »

I'm pritty n00bish at this realy unsure how to do this all (also lazy) would a mechanic charge much to do this?

phreeky · « **Reply #20 on:** Jul 13, 2006, 11:15AM »

wouldn't want to, but if you ask me it's almost a perfect DIY task for somebody learning - although it can be a little annoying, it's not very dangerous (i.e. if you stuff up and it doesn't work you'll know it when you put your foot on the clutch and it goes to the floor)

at the front of the engine on the passenger side you can see the clutch slave cylinder, it is actually a very simple device (i had mine in pieces just the other day, forgot to take pics, bugger), all it contains is the outer casing part, a spring, a piston, a bleed nipple/bolt, a rod and the rubber cover, VERY simple device. you get a empty bottle (coke bottle is fine), some hose (the typical small aquarium stuff is fine), slide a ring spanner over the bleed nipple (just let it hang for now) and push one end of the hose over the nipple, other end goes in the bottle.

now you bleed...

make sure fluid in the clutch resevoir is topped up, get a second person to put foot on the clutch and hold to the floor. you use the spanner to turn the nipple bit until the fluid flows our through the hose, and tighten the nipple again. the person in the car then brings foot off the clutch (might have to grab and pull up) and you just keep repeating (making sure to keep fluid in the resevoir up or you'll get air in the system) until you've replaced all the old fluid with new stuff.

be very, very careful not to get any brake fluid on your paint work, whether it be exterior or in the engine bay, and if you do wash off immediately with plenty of water.

sometimes when i get frustrated i pull the battery and all the intake piping (airbox->turbo) out to get better access, makes it a bit easier

Wolf In Sheep’s Clothing · « **Reply #21 on:** Jul 13, 2006, 11:53AM »

That made it a bit easier, I should be able to do it. I know where everything is I was just unsure how to do it and that cleared things up. ill just take the turbo intake pipe off should make enough room for me to do it.

Hopefully thats the problem sorted right there. If not looks like I'm gonna be broke for a bit longer

BTW any reccomended fluid?

phreeky · « **Reply #22 on:** Jul 13, 2006, 01:07PM »

Anything DOT4 should be ok but some fluid has a higher boiling point than others, higher is better, go to a store and read the back label on the bottles.

Quite a few GTiR owners have this problem too (they have an identical slave cylinder what must be a similar master - actually it could be identical minus the remote resevoir setup they have to clear the plenum).