Author Topic: U13 import buyers guide  (Read 6098 times)

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Offline dom

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U13 import buyers guide
« on: May 31, 2006, 04:13PM »
I was hoping some of you more experienced guys could offer some advice as to perhaps common or specific issues/ things that would need to be checked or addressed when looking at a U13 Attessa. Have you found it difficult sourcing particular parts...if so what ?


Thanks in advance.

Offline jrgtv6

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Re: U13 import buyers guide
« Reply #1 on: Jun 2, 2006, 12:30AM »
Mine is a series 2, I found the front indicators hard to find, series 1 are readilly available.  Are you an attesa owner or considering purchasing one?

Offline LUP15

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Re: U13 import buyers guide
« Reply #2 on: Jun 2, 2006, 03:22PM »
u will find some parts are easy to get , some impossible. the front and rear bars will be hard to source if u damage it. shocks are very hard to find, but we have had people confirm the D2 coilovers fit the attesa.

a lot of custom works needed to pretty much anything else like exhaust related or cooler piping etc. however a lot of basic parts are interchangeable with the aus spec bluebird which is handy
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Offline Alister

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Re: U13 import buyers guide
« Reply #3 on: Jun 2, 2006, 07:09PM »
Yeah, the JAP front bumpers and indicators are near impossible to find. Most import U13s came with the SR20DE/T engines which are used in quite a few different and more common Nissan models so engine parts aren't too hard to come across. Being a niche model car in AUS, certain parts can be very hard to sell (and source). I had a stack of U13 parts that no one wanted so I just gave em to the guy who purchased my car for free. Resale values have started plummeting too, it's sad seeing AUS U13s selling for as cheap as $4000 and Jap U13s selling as cheap as $7000 when inferior Nissans (in my opinion) such as Silvias, 180sxs, etc sell for $8000 upwards *ducks for cover from Stick and Colzie*  ;D They are still great cars though.

Offline dom

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Re: U13 import buyers guide
« Reply #4 on: Jun 9, 2006, 12:15AM »
Has anyone had problems with driveshalfts or halfshafts? CV's rear diff's? CV boots etc?
As long as there is some sort of Australian aftermarket support im guessing sourcing these items won't be a huge problem.
There seems to be alot of front cuts comming in, but not alot of whole cars being wrecked from my research (Here in Vic anyhow).

Offline NIZ013

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Re: U13 import buyers guide
« Reply #5 on: Jun 9, 2006, 05:20PM »
inferior Nissans (in my opinion) such as Silvias, 180sxs, etc sell for $8000 upwards *ducks for cover from Stick and Colzie*  ;D They are still great cars though.

Inferior?? How so?? Please explain your opinion.
« Last Edit: Jun 9, 2006, 06:11PM by 73ENA »

Offline ehh

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Re: U13 import buyers guide
« Reply #6 on: Jun 9, 2006, 06:02PM »
when inferior Nissans (in my opinion) such as Silvias, 180sxs, etc sell for $8000 upwards *ducks for cover from Stick and Colzie*  ;D They are still great cars though.

lol, well atleast you said in your opinion!...lol

ehh from a technical point of view the only thing inferior is the number of doors!! lol
but ehh some people just write cars off because they're popular!


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Offline Alister

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Re: U13 import buyers guide
« Reply #7 on: Jun 9, 2006, 09:33PM »
Inferior?? How so?? Please explain your opinion.

Well, it was meant as more of a joke if anything especially since as the SR20DET is present in certain models of the Bluebird, 180sx, and Silvia  ;D
I was mainly thinking of the AWD drivetrain which the Silvia and 180sx missed out on along with more research design and time going into the development of the U13.
Build quality in the U13 was an improvement over the same generation 180sx and Silvia.

Offline Sticky

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Re: U13 import buyers guide
« Reply #8 on: Jun 10, 2006, 09:10PM »
Build quality in the U13 was an improvement over the same generation 180sx and Silvia.

i cant see where you got that impression, what build quality are you refering to?  the only "build quality" issus i have seen is in the early model s13/RPs13's, they  had dodgy interiors, but from '92 onwards it was improved ten fold.

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Offline Alister

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Re: U13 import buyers guide
« Reply #9 on: Jun 12, 2006, 01:14AM »
Yeah, I was mainly referring to the S13/RPS13. Still great cars though and yes I agree it improved dramatically in the S14 etc. It's a shame AUS didn't get the U14 :(

Offline fez200

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Re: U13 import buyers guide
« Reply #10 on: Jun 15, 2006, 12:53PM »
i'll agree there on build quality also performance.

ive owned an S14 200sx and its build quality wasnt quite as good as the 2 bluebirds ive owned. still it was a great car. see my pic of the S14 on the left of the screen. i had a few problems with the boot leaking and the doors as they are quite long, and some rust.

the standard features on the U13 attesa are slightly better. ie. climate control, better stereo, seats 5 and got pretty good boot space, you had to buy the luxury version S14 to get the same sorta stuff.

the performance was pretty much identical, my S14 was modded the same as my U13 and they perform the same, even though my U13 is an auto, ireckon it would fly if it was a 5spd. the S14 did handle excellent though. the U13 however with the AWD is pretty well up there, with a few susp. mods and a good set of rubber its much like a WRX. plus the stealth look of the bluebird can keep the cops away.
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Offline CS2rex

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Re: U13 import buyers guide
« Reply #11 on: Jul 18, 2006, 06:44PM »
back on topic, anyone had any major problems sourcing parts? caus i am on the look out for an attesa, but have been told to steer away from the more rarer imports as parts can b a nightmare. is this still the case?? or is that a thing of the past?

Offline Budgie

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Re: U13 import buyers guide
« Reply #12 on: Jul 18, 2006, 09:28PM »
You'll be fine.  With the knowledge base on the pulsar forums, bluebird NZ and here fixing problems will be pretty easy.

Its daunting for a 'first timer' but once you make the contacts and know where to look parts are reasonably easy to find.  Especially for the U13 :P
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Offline Ka-Bluey

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Re: U13 import buyers guide
« Reply #13 on: Jul 18, 2006, 10:38PM »
Regarding the driveshafts and driving things, ive heard quiet a few U13 owners changing their gear boxes as they tend to be fairly weak....others state that they are stongest boxes, but im not seeing that in theory knowing how many people here and in NZ have changed their 5spd box in a U13..
 

Offline phreeky

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Re: U13 import buyers guide
« Reply #14 on: Jul 19, 2006, 10:12AM »
driveshafts and stuff seem to be plenty strong, gearbox is the weak link in the drivetrain (like a lot of cars)

clutches cop a beating, if you dump the clutch you can munch boxes and if you slip the clutch you'll burn it out too quickly, need a bit of a compromise if you regularly drag race (i've gotten 1.7 60ft times on really bad rubber but driving through the water but not doing a burnout, just wetting the tyres, and dumping clutch at 5500rpm or so).

you can get any parts from nissan, might take a couple of weeks to get here and cost quite a bit but certainly still available. suspension wise the physical dimensions of the aus u13 stuff is fine, just get appropriate spring/shock rates etc. whiteline etc can get you all the suspension bushes. engine mounts either buy genuine or refill those you have. engine parts most are same as other SRs, specific parts are some of the bolt ons which either don't break (i.e. manifold) or you can rebuild (i.e. alternator).

things like radiator hoses i recommend finding replacements before they go (i.e. i chopped up some hilux hose or something for the top one) and throwing in the boot if you go on a longer trip because you've got no chance of finding one in a dodgy town in the middle of nowhere. i also recommend replacing all the coolant hoses on the back of the engine when you take the engine out for something else (i.e. clutch change), or you can do it by taking the whole intake side off, would be a smart move given their age these days.

ultimately keep in mind things that break are:
- things that move
- things made of rubber

Offline Budgie

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Re: U13 import buyers guide
« Reply #15 on: Jul 19, 2006, 01:22PM »
things like radiator hoses i recommend finding replacements before they go (i.e. i chopped up some hilux hose or something for the top one) and throwing in the boot if you go on a longer trip because you've got no chance of finding one in a dodgy town in the middle of nowhere. i also recommend replacing all the coolant hoses on the back of the engine when you take the engine out for something else (i.e. clutch change), or you can do it by taking the whole intake side off, would be a smart move given their age these days.

ultimately keep in mind things that break are:
- things that move
- things made of rubber

I'm quoting you twice in one day Phreeky!

I agree 100% on those points.  The coolant lines on the back of the engine have caused my car to 'minorly' overheat 3 times.  The last time this happened the head gasket cracked from a water jacket to the outside of the block.

They are 16mm hoses, some smaller... all in funny spots all over the back of the motor.  The SR's obviously don't have the same hoses, but they have them all over the back of the motor just like the CA18DET.

So as phreeky said, things that move and rubber items.  Hoses/gaskets (rocker cover, etc) and engine mounts/gearbox mounts will be the major items.  Possibly even the rear diff subframe mounts and prop-shaft mounts in well used ATTESA's.  The thermostat is also a good one.
« Last Edit: Jul 19, 2006, 01:24PM by Budgie »
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Offline Jono

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Re: U13 import buyers guide
« Reply #16 on: Jul 19, 2006, 11:23PM »
My car has had a close call too because of one of the hoses going to the oil cooler on the back of the motor.
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Re: U13 import buyers guide
« Reply #17 on: Jul 20, 2006, 12:42PM »
inferior Nissans (in my opinion) such as Silvias, 180sxs, etc sell for $8000 upwards *ducks for cover from Stick and Colzie* 

wait, wait, wait, i just read that!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!  >:(


hehe  :P
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Offline phreeky

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Re: U13 import buyers guide
« Reply #18 on: Jul 20, 2006, 03:49PM »
Following up on my previous post, these are the kind of hoses I (and Budgie) speak of...

http://www.clubpoint.net/bluebird/intake/Img_5370.jpg
http://www.clubpoint.net/bluebird/intake/Img_5374.jpg

It's behind all this (i.e. gotta take plenum+runners+other stuff off to get to it): http://www.clubpoint.net/bluebird/Img_4031.jpg

Budgie Edit- And this one (CA18DET) http://www.dart.net.au/~geelongbirds/antrx/bluey/auto-man/auto_man08.jpg
« Last Edit: Jul 20, 2006, 09:38PM by Budgie »

Offline sanders4_

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Re: U13 import buyers guide
« Reply #19 on: Aug 19, 2006, 04:12PM »
Hi Guys,

Currently driving a 94' U13 LX that I've had for 5 years and its been great reliable car which i would have to sell to get an Attesa.  I have been reading all the info i can get my hands on for the U13 Attesa (mainly forums) to get an idea of what i would be in for if i was going to upgrade.

There are two cars i have my eye one;

1. First one is local to ACT and dirt cheap (appealing but worrying...) but i really don't want an auto,
details are at the link, but briefly:
1991 Attesa Auto, 115,000km, front mount, 17's, $6,000

http://www.carsales.com.au/pls/carsales/!cs_content.private_vehicle?vehicle_id=2946072&current_rec=18&used_rec=21&total_rec=33&sort_type=&total_rec=33&sort_type=&make_id=5&model_id=8

2. The second is in Sydney and is a much preferred manual,
details at the link below but briefly:
1991 Attesa 5sp manual, 102,589km, looks pretty stock, $9,900

http://www.carsales.com.au/pls/carsales/!cs_content.private_vehicle?vehicle_id=3148476&current_rec=24&used_rec=21&total_rec=33&sort_type=&total_rec=33&sort_type=&make_id=5&model_id=8

Any comments or opinions on on the two above and what to look out for? Both of these cars have been on the market for while (4-5 months), is this pretty normal for these cars, i figured beings as a manual is so rare it would be snapped up, which made me cautious...  Anyone know how the VIN numbers vary between the local and the import versions? thinking the manual one could be a bit dodge...?

Living in Canberra, i don't know what type of support the local market would have, also I'm new to the scene so i don't have a good network / contacts to source parts, which seems to be how you guys get around the shortage... Could you help me out with any good contacts ?

Any help would be great!

Cheers!

Offline Budgie

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Re: U13 import buyers guide
« Reply #20 on: Aug 19, 2006, 05:48PM »
The second one is sold mate... sorry to burst your bubble :(
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Offline sanders4_

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Re: U13 import buyers guide
« Reply #21 on: Aug 19, 2006, 06:12PM »
Figures... Ohh well i'm sure another one will come along.  The orignial question still stands though on what to look out for when sussing out these cars?

Offline Jono

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Re: U13 import buyers guide
« Reply #22 on: Aug 21, 2006, 08:56PM »
I'd say the VIN numbers are legit. When they're complied the company that does the compliancing usually makes up a new VIN for the car and they stamp it on the firewall or the shock tower or they stamp it on a plate and rivet that to the car somewhere.
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