Author Topic: Stereo, remote central locking, and clock stopped working simultaneously  (Read 7659 times)

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Offline Cheezel

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Hey guys, weird problem but all three of those devices listed stopped working at the same time. Ive replaced the audio fuse to no avail - no idea why it's all gone. Only common link i can establish is between the amp and the remote central being tapped into the same spot on the positive terminal - but the head unit doesn't work, which doesn't make sense.

Is there another fuse I'm not aware of? The car runs and drives just like it did, when the car is turned on all the lighting and such works - and the car does turn on, so I thought it might've been the battery gone but the car wouldn't start if the batteries dead...

Offline Cheezel

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So, is there a fuse under the bonnet thats the culprit? Ive read about other cars having this problem and its usually a central in-bonnet fuse that's blown. =/

Offline Sticky

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Did you check all the fuses inside the cabin first? Got a test light? probe all the fuses inside the cabin on both sides, then move under the bonnet.

Possibly the Audio Fuse, if it is, chances are your taillights might not be working either, if i remember correctly they all run off the same curcuit, correct me if im wrong.

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Offline Colby

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Yeah i would have thought the accessories fuse in the cabin.  Either that or the cable has come off the battery terminal.

Offline Cheezel

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Dont have a test light, i did check all fuses but nothing was wrong. Does the audio piggyback off anything else? I know in some cars the audio fuse and two or three other fuses all rely on each other..

My tail lights do work. Theres a solid connection at the positive terminal - thats my first thought, but other factory items stopped working. Aka interior lighting.

Is there an "accessories" fuse or solenoid in the engine bay? =\

Offline Cheezel

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Checked the accessories relay inside the cabin - no problems there. Disconnected my amp for the sake of it, since that's the only thing that's changed. I do have a voltmeter handy if there's any thing anyone can think of.

Looking at the electrical diagram, either my car has been rewired or there's something funny going on. All the factory accessories not working - interior lighting, clock and audio - are all wired into the ignition relay, along with a loooot of other electronics obviously.

 The audio is also running by itself with the ignition switch which runs to the accessories relay, with  a fuse in the line but nothing branching off. No idea what the difference between the two audios are.

So after a bit of playing... I'm even more stumped. =\

Offline Cheezel

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pulled most of the interior out to make heads and tails of the mess of cables inside of there. Most of it all came back to the loom - apparently the audio is dependant on the interior lighting - and so is the aftermarket remote central locking. What nuffy wired these cars up?
so after all that, it was just the interior lighting fuse that had gone. Swapped with the a/c fuse and it all works. le sigh. Oh well - time to run thicker speaker wire since it's all apart anyhow.

Offline Cheezel

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T-t-t-triple post!

So everything was working yesterday. Pulled into work and the smell of burning - then BAM. All gobe again - so its shorting somewhere. Only thing i can think of is the door sensors, since that light is constantly on. So i pulled it out in the work carpark - theyre all grounds, and when the door is shut the springloaded button gets pushed onto the body. I dont see how this can be arcing so badly it makes a 10A fuse blow. I cant see how it cant be working - a bit of grime in there i guess. Ill brush i out and see how i go.

Cars are fun!! Lol

Offline SSS

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Is the central locking triggered by the interior lighting only? Or is it drawing power from the same lighting circuit?

If so, you might have a short in one of the solenoids that could be causing it.

Offline Cheezel

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SSS - apparently so. There's a red wire that's been spliced in off the interior lighting fuse - I'd imagine thatd be it, since it's not in the FSM and it's done with electrical tape. :P

The only issue I have with that is that without the fuse in place, my central locking still works - my remote central locking doesnt. When I use my remote central locking, the interior lighting flashes - i'd imagine this is what that link is designed for. So if the fuse IS being tripped by the solenoid - then it must be piggybacking off something else for power, since the circuit still works - and given that this was a professional install, that fuse would have to be tripping as well. - which it isnt, since everything still works and the only fuse I've replaced is the interior lighting fuse. Power windows and central locking always works - just not the remote part of it, since I assume that draws its power solely from the interior lighting fuse. I've thought about just upping the fuse, maybe the head unit draws more power? But it's definitely a short -somewhere- in the body.


For clarity's sake, i'll list everything I know about this;

In the week before this occured, a new headunit and amplifier had been installed.

The fuse went, so I've since removed the amplifier for arguments sake. The fuse still blows. I've double checked all my head unit wiring - there's no faulty wiring there.


When the fuse blows, a few things occur - The clock disappears (illumination stays), and it tells me that my doors are open. Given that the way the door sensors work, when the doors are open, it appears to ground the connection. When there is a ground, the light lights up. When the electrics decide to be in a state where the fuse wont blow - the clock comes back if the cars on, and the doors DO show up as shut on my dash, with or without a fuse in. Without a fuse in, the door light very faintly flashes - i'd assume this is because it doesnt have the fuse and wants to let me know that something's not right. This tells me that something is grounding or shorting out along that circuit, since it works fine without the fuse in the line. Over any bumps, or when I turn the car a certain amount, the fuse trips. It's also the only thing I've got that's close to an indication. - something has to be just tapping and shorting.

Going through the FSM, that one wire coming from the fuse - R/G - seems to go into a plug and split from there, so i've got a tonne of circuits to check apparently, but I want to narrow them down

So, how do I start narrowing it down? I'm happy to remove all features and start up from there, take it for a spin and see if it trips one by one, but I can't do that for -every- circuit. It'd take forever! Suggestions?

tl;dr - thanks for trying, [i seem to suffer from tourettes]s fucked.

Offline Cheezel

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Pulled it all apart, replaced a few suspect wires, turned over, had no luck, re-did all the wiring for my head unit, speakers, and amplifier, and bingo. So I have no idea what the problem was - but my speakers are all running some 12-gauge wiring now. :D