I do not intend on exceeding the factory redline, I was intending on obtaining more torque up high before the factory redline such as 4-5krpm if possible.
Hopefully your ITB's will have provided the necessary bump to widen and lift your torque curve; personally i'd aim for no more than 5k rpm at peak torque. Otherwise it'll be a real prick to drive.
Also, "clay the shit out of your engine ?"
Dummy assemble the engine, place roughly 3mm thick pieces of blu-tac / clay on the piston crown where the valves come closest to the piston crown. Install and torque down the head, then rotate the engine so the valves leave an impression in the clay / blu-tac.
Pull the head off, and using a vernier, measure the thickness that is left between the depressed clay / blu-tac and the piston crown, and this will give you your piston to valve clearance.
You can go as far to check it for various positions of the cam, ie 5 deg retarded and 5 deg advanced so you know how far your can advance / retard the cam and not make piston to valve contact.
As chris said, adj cam gears should only be used to correct cam timing where it differs from the cam grinder's cam specs. This is done by degreeing the cam, which would be done after the "claying" stage as I explained above.
Degreeing the cam checks the opening and closing of the valves relative to crank position, which is typically given by the cam grinder when you buy aftermarket cams.
Google it for the procedure, i won't regurgitate it here.