If you get your cam re-ground, give wade's a call and have a chat with them, but basically everyone always ordered the same cam. Just ask them about the cam I always used to order - it's about 270 degrees duration and 0.44" lift on both intake and exhaust from memory, the specs are based on the Nismo R4 cam.
Last I spoke with wade's they had 2 or 3 billet cams in stock, so if you want to go a bit more agressive, then the billet is the go. It's a little more pricey when purchasing the billet, but it's worth while to get done.
Check the specs in the thread here
http://www.antrx.com/smf/index.php/topic,19544.msg292279.html#msg292279You can get cam grinds up to 300 degrees duration and 0.5" lift. It's probably a good idea to get your hands on some solid lifters if possible and either new standard or stiffer valve springs, but if you're looking at doing more headwork then I imagine that kind of thing is going to be looked at anyway.
you can get solid lifters at a few places, but they're not cheap
https://www.ojperformance.com/Online%20Store/product.php?productid=16714hybridka used to do them but they're not around anymore. SSS might be able to give you some info, he made his solid lifters himself, i might have some hydraulic lifters that i could donate for the conversion if you go down that path. Basically though, the rocker arms are forged so they're a prick to drill for the lifter screw, then thread the rocker arm for the lifter screw, then a locking nut for adjustment. also need to machine the pad surface.
You just need a screw long enough that isn't too fat to fit through the rocker arm. From memory adam said he used a chevrolet screw, but I might be wrong, either way you can pick the screws up pretty cheap from around the net, just shop around. You might want to take the rocker arms to a machine shop to have them do the whole lot for you (drilling and tapping the thread) and you would probably come out at a faction of the US$400 that O&J are selling them for.