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Author Topic: clutch slave cylinder and how do i check fluids  (Read 558 times)
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LUP15
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« on: Nov 5, 2005, 01:11PM »

My clutch on my U13 attesa seems to be having problems. Im finding it hard to change gears when it warms up and the pedal is feeling soft. it seems that the slave cylinder might b the culprit and wouldnt mind seeing for myself to see if i can make any difference before handing it over to the mechs.

also if i happen to change the slave cylinder, what should i do. get a new 1 or get it resleeved? if latter what should be done for it to be effective long term?

thanks
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« Reply #1 on: Nov 5, 2005, 03:26PM »

check the fluid level in the reservoir next to the brake master cylinder, just the same as though you are checking your brake fluid level. then:
pull the carpet back in the drivers footwell and check for leaks on either side of the fire wall where the clutch master cylinder is.
if all is fine here follow the clutch fluid lines and check for leaks also.
if there are no leaks in the lines and none obvious at the slave cylinder then it is internal and you will have to take out the gearbox to find out.

it may just be that all the friction lining of your clutch is about to kick the bucket
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« Reply #2 on: Nov 5, 2005, 04:23PM »

Doesn't the clutch operating cylinder just attach to the outside of the gearbox? (KA24 u12's anyway)

Should just have to take it off, no need to go removing the gearbox or anything extreme like that.

Actually what you could try doing is just watching the operating cylinder (by looking at the clutch fork pivoting thing that comes from the gearbox) as you get someone to push the clutch pedal in and out. Do it under circumstances where the gearbox starts to misbehave, in your case, when the cars warmed up. If it doesn't move then there is certainly something wrong with the hydraulics between the pedal and the gearbox.

When my master cylinder was shot (FYI, the one on the Firewall) I didn't get these symptoms - rather, my clutch would be very soft and I had to pump it up continiously. Usually when the car had been sitting still for a period of time, or when I travelled at a high constant speed. It was an internal leak.
« Last Edit: Nov 5, 2005, 04:27PM by Rake » Logged
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« Reply #3 on: Nov 5, 2005, 06:43PM »

For your information
My clutch master cylinder went last year some time on my u13 attesa.
Gear selection became a problem.
Clutch fluid was low.

Easy fix for my mechanic as 300zx uses same set up exactly.
$230 bucks and i was on my way.
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« Reply #4 on: Nov 5, 2005, 07:57PM »

the master cylinders are a fair bit different when it comes to removal and installs and fixes.

your right it shouldnt be a prob with the removal of the slave, i was thinking of the clutch fork and slave as one, being stupid
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« Reply #5 on: Nov 8, 2005, 12:02PM »

had a look at the reservior today.... the fluid colour is brown...... shouldnt it be a nice green colour like brake fluid?  the fluid level is still good however... maybe the clutch fluid has gone 'off' causing it to heat up due to absorbing water? cause the problem is only apprarent when it heats up... but doesnt take as long as it use to (use to be only after a hard drive, but now just after a normal drive..)

also i have a squeeking noise coming from around the gearbox and goes away when i press the clutch... the squeek isnt consistent as in it comes and goes... a bearing of some sort?

hmm getting mercury motorsports to have a look at it on thur. gonna rebuild the slave cylinder. if that doesnt work.... what else besides taking the gearbox out?
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« Reply #6 on: Nov 8, 2005, 04:23PM »

not much then, i would say that it is the fluid if the fluid levels are fine.....

green fluid isnt the best stuff, try some type of clearer fluid and a higher DOT rating, eg castrol Dot 4 super stop brake fluid, is what i use.

after that i would say that it will be an engine gearbox out affair, but if you do this, make sure you do other things at the same time... like if you car is around 100,000km's and hasnt had the timing chain or belt done, get it done then, and if you want cams and cam gears done. and also internal engine work.

coz trust me, it gets pricey to do all this, considering mech's charge about $65 an hour times 8 hours to get it all out then put it back in for 8 hours.... so just in and out will cost $1040, which doesnt sound good at the best of times
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« Reply #7 on: Nov 8, 2005, 04:31PM »

Can't you just take out the gearbox, leaving the engine in?
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« Reply #8 on: Nov 8, 2005, 05:09PM »

unfortunately no, coz of the size of it all, it is impossible to detach the gearbox from the engine while it is in the engine bay
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« Reply #9 on: Nov 8, 2005, 06:50PM »

Just got craazier is spot on.
Any gear box or clutch work on a u13 attesa will require the engine to be removed.
I have heard of some people changing clutches without removing the engine but I cant verify it.
Most good mechanics will prefer to remove the motor .
Once the gear box is out look into fitting a good quality clutch as you dont want to go all that way only to do a clutch down the track.
If you invest in a good unit straight away it may last you for ever.

I think GTIR's have the same dilema so we are not the only ones who require engine removal for gearbox work.

You can always sell the car and buy a Hyundai!!!!
You just have to put up with the 20 second quarter mile.
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