elly
Trade Count:
( 0)
antrx.com junior member

Karma: +0/-0
Offline
Gender: 
Posts: 34
U12
|
 |
« on: Feb 24, 2010, 11:51AM » |
|
hey guys, im wanting to replace the existing rubber hosing from throttle to my pod filter. i want either aluminum or stainless steel. has many people done this? because of the vaccuum line i think it is. going from intake hose to engine how do i replace all of this without making any mistakes? is there a certain pipe i must obtain or just drill a hole into the metal and seal the pipe in it? yeeah i havent put much thought into this. haha also whats the best way to repel the heat from engine so pod sucks only cold air. without drilling into my chassis or too much modifications. im trying to find like a see-thru pod box or somthing. no luck.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
KA24ET
Trade Count:
( 0)
antrx.com junior member

Karma: +0/-0
Offline
Posts: 53
|
 |
« Reply #1 on: Feb 24, 2010, 02:30PM » |
|
You Have to plum in both the pipes that are currently connected. The larger being for Idle air control and the other a crankcase breather... You dont need aluminum or stainless. Exhaust pipe is fine... And cheaper, and easier to weld. U can litterly pull the bungs out of your rubber hose with pliers, and have them welded in at an exhaust shop for next to nothing. Will the use of a few silicon pieces, and a few pieces of exhaust pipe, u can easily remake the intake pipe. Remember to paint the pipe as it will rust. Tig welding Aluminum or stainless is much harder and expensive Tons of good advice on this forum about Cold Air induction setups... Good luck
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
SSS
Administrator
Trade Count:
( 3)
post whore
   
Karma: +5011/-3
Offline
Gender: 
Posts: 7142
|
 |
« Reply #2 on: Feb 24, 2010, 08:09PM » |
|
Elly, I might be able to help you out with an aluminium intake pipe with the correct fittings for all your hoses, I can tig aluminium and have been after an excuse to make one up for my daily driver. PM me if you're interested.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
pedro666
Trade Count:
( 1)
post whore
   
Karma: +20/-7
Offline
Gender: 
Posts: 1077
NEO VVL is how I roll...
|
 |
« Reply #3 on: Feb 24, 2010, 08:14PM » |
|
i´m pretty sure there is a wiki article on it, in the wiki section..
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
'I had to stop driving my car for a while... the tires got dizzy.' Steven Wright
The average rounds expended per kill with the M16 in Vietnam was 50,000. Snipers averaged 1.3 rounds. The cost difference was $2300 v 0.27 cents.
skype_shannan801
|
|
|
SSS
Administrator
Trade Count:
( 3)
post whore
   
Karma: +5011/-3
Offline
Gender: 
Posts: 7142
|
 |
« Reply #4 on: Feb 25, 2010, 06:16AM » |
|
From memory that was for making a PVC intake pipe, which IMHO, is a pretty pox way of doing it.
I did a mild steel intake pipe to suit a Z32/RB25 maf for my black car a few years ago, came out pretty good once it was painted.
Aluminium is definitely the way to go however.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
FuzzyDropbear
Trade Count:
( 0)
antrx.com senior member
  
Karma: +4/-0
Offline
Gender: 
Posts: 380
L26 Boost Junkie
|
 |
« Reply #5 on: Feb 25, 2010, 08:50AM » |
|
Regarding the air intake, I was in the same boat. Wasn't a great fan of drilling / cutting holes in the chassis for a CAI. The main problem is getting your pipe down to the bumper, which is made a bit difficult with the lack of room behind the headlight.
What I ended up doing, was buying a section of poly flex pipe and heating this up enough so I could shape it into a 0 shape. This allows you to fit the pipe between the chassis and the headlight without cutting the chassis. I'll get a photo of it if you're interested.
I know this isn't the best way to do it, but it does allow you to fit a 75mm pipe down to the bumper, yes, it has restrictions due to the reshaping of the pipe and because it doesn't have a smooth internal surface like Aluminium etc (if you buy enough of it you can compress it to get a semi smooth surface). However, if you're not building a high performance engine, if you're just putting the usual chip, exhaust, CAI and cam, I don't think you'll miss the extra kW or two from the flexi pipe compared to Al. But IMO, it's still better than factory and sounds alot better!
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
Datsun boys, we like 'em fast, so we drop 'em low, heavy on the gas! i had some trouble opening the left rear door but i fixed it with chain bolted to where the rear bar bolts to & the other end to a pole & gave it a pull, all good now
|
|
|
elly
Trade Count:
( 0)
antrx.com junior member

Karma: +0/-0
Offline
Gender: 
Posts: 34
U12
|
 |
« Reply #6 on: Feb 28, 2010, 01:12AM » |
|
yeaaah i was tempted to make a PVC airintake pipe, but itjust looks so dodgy lol,
yeah fuzzy show me some pictures. im interested to see what it looks like. yeah im eventually putting stage 3 chip, grinding cam and bore-ing engine out. i just wanted steel or aluminum since it sounds great, but yeah whatever works really.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
Colby
Trade Count:
( 0)
post whore
   
Karma: +32/-4
Offline
Gender: 
Posts: 2085
KA24DE powered TRX
|
 |
« Reply #7 on: Feb 28, 2010, 09:51AM » |
|
I got a piece of pipe from the exhaust shop with a 45 bend in it, and fitted that up to mine to replace the black rubber before the AFM. Use a closed airbox pod... I've always run a piece of flex pipe under the frame at the front so it picks up at the bottom of the bumper. works well.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
KA24ET
Trade Count:
( 0)
antrx.com junior member

Karma: +0/-0
Offline
Posts: 53
|
 |
« Reply #8 on: Feb 28, 2010, 01:41PM » |
|
At our levels of performance, the difference in flow that would be evident between types of metal wouldn't even be noticeable on a Dyno. Be smart Use the cheapest option that gets the job done efficiently. Spend your money in places it will make a difference Realistically, there is nothing wrong with the factory intake piping... IMO a CAI setup is best option on a near to stock car, better bang for your buck that redoing a perfectly good pipe
I have the standard pipe on my garage floor, bout to throw out if anyone wants it
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
FuzzyDropbear
Trade Count:
( 0)
antrx.com senior member
  
Karma: +4/-0
Offline
Gender: 
Posts: 380
L26 Boost Junkie
|
 |
« Reply #9 on: Apr 26, 2010, 03:39PM » |
|
Oops, didn't realize it was that long ago that I said I'd post some pics of my hack job.  Anyway, finally got some time off work to take some pics today. As you can see, it's a bit messy, but I was always meaning to just leave the section under the headlight as the flex pipe and make some solid piping for the rest of it, but have been busy working on my Z so never got around to it. It's a relatively cheap alternative. The only thing you have to do, which you can see in the first pic, is to separate the parker light wiring, which is just unclipping the black section at the back, from the grey stalk that attaches to the globe and headlight. Apologies for the unclean engine bay, looks a lot better now I've given it a bit of a wash  Cheers.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
Datsun boys, we like 'em fast, so we drop 'em low, heavy on the gas! i had some trouble opening the left rear door but i fixed it with chain bolted to where the rear bar bolts to & the other end to a pole & gave it a pull, all good now
|
|
|
|