[ antrx.com ]
Jul 31, 2010, 12:42AM *
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.
Did you miss your activation email?

Login with username, password and session length
News: vote for antrx at topnissan..click here to make your vote
 
   Home   Help Search Login Register  
Pages: [1]   Go Down
  Print  
Author Topic: Air Intake replacement.  (Read 451 times)
0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.
elly
Trade Count: (0)
antrx.com junior member
**

Karma: +0/-0
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 34


U12


« on: Feb 24, 2010, 11:51AM »

hey guys, im wanting to replace the existing rubber hosing from throttle to my pod filter.
i want either aluminum or stainless steel.
has many people done this? because of the vaccuum line i think it is. going from intake hose to engine
how do i replace all of this without making any mistakes?
is there a certain pipe i must obtain or just drill a hole into the metal and seal the pipe in it?
yeeah i havent put much thought into this. haha
also whats the best way to repel the heat from engine so pod sucks only cold air. without drilling into my chassis or too much modifications.
im trying to find like a see-thru pod box or somthing. no luck.
Logged
KA24ET
Trade Count: (0)
antrx.com junior member
**

Karma: +0/-0
Offline Offline

Posts: 53


« Reply #1 on: Feb 24, 2010, 02:30PM »

You Have to plum in both the pipes that are currently connected.
The larger being for Idle air control and the other a crankcase breather...
You dont need aluminum or stainless. Exhaust pipe is fine... And cheaper, and easier to weld. U can litterly pull the bungs out of your rubber hose with pliers, and have them welded in at an exhaust shop for next to nothing. Will the use of a few silicon pieces, and a few pieces of exhaust pipe, u can easily remake the intake pipe.
Remember to paint the pipe as it will rust.
Tig welding Aluminum or stainless is much harder and expensive
Tons of good advice on this forum about Cold Air induction setups...
Good luck



Logged
SSS
Administrator
Trade Count: (3)
post whore
*****

Karma: +5011/-3
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 7142



« Reply #2 on: Feb 24, 2010, 08:09PM »

Elly, I might be able to help you out with an aluminium intake pipe with the correct fittings for all your hoses, I can tig aluminium and have been after an excuse to make one up for my daily driver. PM me if you're interested.
Logged
pedro666
Trade Count: (1)
post whore
*****

Karma: +20/-7
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 1077


NEO VVL is how I roll...


« Reply #3 on: Feb 24, 2010, 08:14PM »

i´m pretty sure there is a wiki article on it, in the wiki section..
Logged

'I had to stop driving my car for a while... the tires got dizzy.'
Steven Wright


The average rounds expended per kill with the M16 in Vietnam was 50,000. Snipers averaged 1.3 rounds.
The cost difference was $2300 v 0.27 cents.

skype_shannan801
SSS
Administrator
Trade Count: (3)
post whore
*****

Karma: +5011/-3
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 7142



« Reply #4 on: Feb 25, 2010, 06:16AM »

From memory that was for making a PVC intake pipe, which IMHO, is a pretty pox way of doing it.

I did a mild steel intake pipe to suit a Z32/RB25 maf for my black car a few years ago, came out pretty good once it was painted.

Aluminium is definitely the way to go however.
Logged
FuzzyDropbear
Trade Count: (0)
antrx.com senior member
****

Karma: +4/-0
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 380


L26 Boost Junkie


« Reply #5 on: Feb 25, 2010, 08:50AM »

Regarding the air intake, I was in the same boat. Wasn't a great fan of drilling / cutting holes in the chassis for a CAI. The main problem is getting your pipe down to the bumper, which is made a bit difficult with the lack of room behind the headlight.

What I ended up doing, was buying a section of poly flex pipe and heating this up enough so I could shape it into a 0 shape. This allows you to fit the pipe between the chassis and the headlight without cutting the chassis. I'll get a photo of it if you're interested.

I know this isn't the best way to do it, but it does allow you to fit a 75mm pipe down to the bumper, yes, it has restrictions due to the reshaping of the pipe and because it doesn't have a smooth internal surface like Aluminium etc (if you buy enough of it you can compress it to get a semi smooth surface). However, if you're not building a high performance engine, if you're just putting the usual chip, exhaust, CAI and cam, I don't think you'll miss the extra kW or two from the flexi pipe compared to Al. But IMO, it's still better than factory and sounds alot better!
Logged

Datsun boys, we like 'em fast, so we drop 'em low, heavy on the gas!

i had some trouble opening the left rear door but i fixed it with chain bolted to where the rear bar bolts to & the other end to a pole & gave it a pull, all good now
elly
Trade Count: (0)
antrx.com junior member
**

Karma: +0/-0
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 34


U12


« Reply #6 on: Feb 28, 2010, 01:12AM »

yeaaah i was tempted to make a PVC airintake pipe, but itjust looks so dodgy lol,

yeah fuzzy show me some pictures. im interested to see what it looks like.
yeah im eventually putting stage 3 chip, grinding cam and bore-ing engine out.
i just wanted steel or aluminum since it sounds great, but yeah whatever works really.
Logged
Colby
Trade Count: (0)
post whore
*****

Karma: +32/-4
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 2085


KA24DE powered TRX


« Reply #7 on: Feb 28, 2010, 09:51AM »

I got a piece of pipe from the exhaust shop with a 45 bend in it, and fitted that up to mine to replace the black rubber before the AFM.  Use a closed airbox pod...  I've always run a piece of flex pipe under the frame at the front so it picks up at the bottom of the bumper.  works well.
Logged

KA24ET
Trade Count: (0)
antrx.com junior member
**

Karma: +0/-0
Offline Offline

Posts: 53


« Reply #8 on: Feb 28, 2010, 01:41PM »

At our levels of performance, the difference in flow that would be evident between types of metal wouldn't even be noticeable on a Dyno.
Be smart
Use the cheapest option that gets the job done efficiently.
Spend your money in places it will make a difference
Realistically, there is nothing wrong with the factory intake piping...
IMO a CAI setup is best option on a near to stock car, better bang for your buck that redoing a perfectly good pipe

I have the standard pipe on my garage floor, bout to throw out if anyone wants it
Logged
FuzzyDropbear
Trade Count: (0)
antrx.com senior member
****

Karma: +4/-0
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 380


L26 Boost Junkie


« Reply #9 on: Apr 26, 2010, 03:39PM »

Oops, didn't realize it was that long ago that I said I'd post some pics of my hack job.  Sad

Anyway, finally got some time off work to take some pics today.


As you can see, it's a bit messy, but I was always meaning to just leave the section under the headlight as the flex pipe and make some solid piping for the rest of it, but have been busy working on my Z so never got around to it. It's a relatively cheap alternative. The only thing you have to do, which you can see in the first pic, is to separate the parker light wiring, which is just unclipping the black section at the back, from the grey stalk that attaches to the globe and headlight.

Apologies for the unclean engine bay, looks a lot better now I've given it a bit of a wash  Wink

Cheers.
Logged

Datsun boys, we like 'em fast, so we drop 'em low, heavy on the gas!

i had some trouble opening the left rear door but i fixed it with chain bolted to where the rear bar bolts to & the other end to a pole & gave it a pull, all good now
Pages: [1]   Go Up
  Print  
 
Jump to:  

Powered by MySQL Powered by PHP Powered by SMF 1.1.11 | SMF © 2006-2009, Simple Machines LLC Valid XHTML 1.0! Valid CSS!
Page created in 0.141 seconds with 29 queries.